• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

SPECTOR® Club - Part 66

Status
Not open for further replies.
I may wind up going back to XL's. I used them for a long, long time, right up until I started playing Spectors. I was using Dunlops then DR's for a while, then the CK's.

I'm moving away from CK for a number of reasons, but I'm not sure I want to go back to Fat Beams. I'm always concerned about twisting that round core. The big allure for XL's for me (besides the great price via BSO) is the variety available in gauges, and all the heavier gauges seem to have tapers available now too. I was liking the lower tension of steels for my fretting hand articulation, but I am having a hard time with the lower tension when I pick fast - I need more resistance there.

Mostly I just want to settle on something.
 
I may wind up going back to XL's. I used them for a long, long time, right up until I started playing Spectors. I was using Dunlops then DR's for a while, then the CK's.

I'm moving away from CK for a number of reasons, but I'm not sure I want to go back to Fat Beams. I'm always concerned about twisting that round core. The big allure for XL's for me (besides the great price via BSO) is the variety available in gauges, and all the heavier gauges seem to have tapers available now too. I was liking the lower tension of steels for my fretting hand articulation, but I am having a hard time with the lower tension when I pick fast - I need more resistance there.

Mostly I just want to settle on something.

I loved the sound of the XLs on my ReBop...except for the B string. No matter what I did, it just kind of *thunked* with no resonance or sustain. :(

I've settled on using DR Sunbeams and they're great. I also tried GHS Briteflats & Precision Flats. No difference. I think that B saddle just doesn't like a flat wound.
 
I loved the sound of the XLs on my ReBop...except for the B string. No matter what I did, it just kind of *thunked* with no resonance or sustain. :(

I've settled on using DR Sunbeams and they're great. I also tried GHS Briteflats & Precision Flats. No difference. I think that B saddle just doesn't like a flat wound.

I like the Sunbeams and have a set ready to go for my fretless when it arrives. I used them on my Carvin fretless and they sounded great.

What gauge B did you use of the XL? I used to use a 135 on my Stingray and a 145 on my Carvin 6. Usually did pretty well.
 
Wow, thanks for all the supportive comments, good (but at the same time, sad) to know I'm not alone.

It's been a tough time but I already see light at the end and although I'm not in a band currently and haven't written anything in years (got a digital 8 track Tascam 7 years ago and some recording software to replace my old tape machine and still haven't used any of it!), picking up the bass and guitar, listening to music, and reading the TB forums gives me a lot of pleasure and comfort.

So cheers to everyone! To those on the same boat, "stay strong". To those that got off that boat and moved on to better things, a warm "awesome!". :)

And these are the best pictures I could take with my phone and poor lighting.
 

Attachments

  • Zebop1.jpg
    Zebop1.jpg
    112.6 KB · Views: 76
  • Zebop2.jpg
    Zebop2.jpg
    107.7 KB · Views: 66
Wow, thanks for all the supportive comments, good (but at the same time, sad) to know I'm not alone.

It's been a tough time but I already see light at the end and although I'm not in a band currently and haven't written anything in years (got a digital 8 track Tascam 7 years ago and some recording software to replace my old tape machine and still haven't used any of it!), picking up the bass and guitar, listening to music, and reading the TB forums gives me a lot of pleasure and comfort.

So cheers to everyone! To those on the same boat, "stay strong". To those that got off that boat and moved on to better things, a warm "awesome!". :)

And these are the best pictures I could take with my phone and poor lighting.
VERY NICE LOOKING FOR SURE :bassist:
 
I like the Sunbeams and have a set ready to go for my fretless when it arrives. I used them on my Carvin fretless and they sounded great.

What gauge B did you use of the XL? I used to use a 135 on my Stingray and a 145 on my Carvin 6. Usually did pretty well.

It was a .132. When I went back to a .125 with the GHS, it got a little better, but those saddles don't seem to like fat flats.
 
I'm running DR strings on the Ultraviolet bass and Ernie Ball Cobalts strings on the Black Cherry, both are 45/65/85/105 and still sound great. The Ultraviolet DR strings are 2 months old but I switch between 3 basses right now.
 
I'm running DR strings on the Ultraviolet bass and Ernie Ball Cobalts strings on the Black Cherry, both are 45/65/85/105 and still sound great. The Ultraviolet DR strings are 2 months old but I switch between 3 basses right now.

Which DR's?

I had the Cobalts on one of my departed Stingrays but haven't tried them on the Stingray.

I think I'm just going to have to plunk down some dough at BSO and get a a bunch of strings and just figure it out. I've used several of DR's strings including both nickel and steel Lo-Riders, Fat Beams and Sunbeams, but never all on the same bass. I think I'll just grab some of each, some ProSteels and XL's and just make a weekend of it. I've listened to a lot of comparison clips, but ultimately I need to see how they feel and sound with my gear and touch.
 
I'm running DR strings on the Ultraviolet bass and Ernie Ball Cobalts strings on the Black Cherry, both are 45/65/85/105 and still sound great. The Ultraviolet DR strings are 2 months old but I switch between 3 basses right now.

Which DR's?

I had the Cobalts on one of my departed Stingrays but haven't tried them on the Stingray.

I think I'm just going to have to plunk down some dough at BSO and get a a bunch of strings and just figure it out. I've used several of DR's strings including both nickel and steel Lo-Riders, Fat Beams and Sunbeams, but never all on the same bass. I think I'll just grab some of each, some ProSteels and XL's and just make a weekend of it. I've listened to a lot of comparison clips, but ultimately I need to see how they feel and sound with my gear and touch.

I am a BIG user of DR High Beams. I've recently tried the 1st gen Spector strings and the DR Long Necks. I was not happy with the sound of the Spectors and didn't find the Long Necks to be worth the extra money. These were on my Euro5. I've stuck with hibeams on the four string and will continue. Plus hibeams will be what goes on my NS-5XL, Euro4, and NS-2 as soon as they arrive.

I have just found these strings to have the most harmonic content and keep the "new string" sound longer than any others I've tried. I have no need for special gauges since I tune A-440. I use .45 - .105 + .125 for the low B.

IMHO YMMV VWPBL
 
Which DR's?

I had the Cobalts on one of my departed Stingrays but haven't tried them on the Stingray.

I think I'm just going to have to plunk down some dough at BSO and get a a bunch of strings and just figure it out. I've used several of DR's strings including both nickel and steel Lo-Riders, Fat Beams and Sunbeams, but never all on the same bass. I think I'll just grab some of each, some ProSteels and XL's and just make a weekend of it. I've listened to a lot of comparison clips, but ultimately I need to see how they feel and sound with my gear and touch.

DR Lo-Rider: stainles steel, round wound on hexagonal core, medium 45/65/85/105. I like the depth of tone yet bright high end, perfect stiffness. At first I wasn't use to these strings but decided to give them a little time to allow them to grow on me!

I have always used Ernie Ball Hybrid Slinky but Todd set me up with the Cobalts to try and so far I'm liking these as they have a familiar tone that I had with the hybrids yet seem to react well with the active pickups.
 
Hey fellas. Just bought this Euro LX from Denny Coon (great guy) here on TB. Wonderful bass and I'm thinking I may be a Spector guy here soon. This bass plays fantastic. Sonically, it was just what I was looking for in my next bass. Not sure if this club does numbers, but I'd be honored to have one.
I sent her out yesterday to Justin Kennedy in Fairfield, Ohio to have a complete set up done. I can hardly wait to get her back!!!
I finally see what all the Spector love is all about. View attachment 357375

Welcome and a great deal you got too!
Pm tracebassplayer for a number. I used to have that exact model and wish I never got rid of it.
Congrats again ! Jnumme
 
DR Lo-Rider: stainles steel, round wound on hexagonal core, medium 45/65/85/105. I like the depth of tone yet bright high end, perfect stiffness. At first I wasn't use to these strings but decided to give them a little time to allow them to grow on me!

I have always used Ernie Ball Hybrid Slinky but Todd set me up with the Cobalts to try and so far I'm liking these as they have a familiar tone that I had with the hybrids yet seem to react well with the active pickups.

How do you find the cobalts for fret wear? Those are pretty hard metals to be rubbing against steel.

I just got a set of Formula 603 Spector strings to try out. BUT, since I'm trying to sell my ReBop, I'm saving them for the next bass I get. I couldn't pass them up at $25/set.
 
How do you find the cobalts for fret wear? Those are pretty hard metals to be rubbing against steel.

I just got a set of Formula 603 Spector strings to try out. BUT, since I'm trying to sell my ReBop, I'm saving them for the next bass I get. I couldn't pass them up at $25/set.

I have not noticed any fret wear but have only had these for a little over a month, they are the hybrid cobalts number 2833 and seem well balanced with a nice midrange tone which sounds great on the Pau ferro neck and are also 45/65/85/105
 
I am a BIG user of DR High Beams. I've recently tried the 1st gen Spector strings and the DR Long Necks. I was not happy with the sound of the Spectors and didn't find the Long Necks to be worth the extra money. These were on my Euro5. I've stuck with hibeams on the four string and will continue. Plus hibeams will be what goes on my NS-5XL, Euro4, and NS-2 as soon as they arrive.

I have just found these strings to have the most harmonic content and keep the "new string" sound longer than any others I've tried. I have no need for special gauges since I tune A-440. I use .45 - .105 + .125 for the low B.

IMHO YMMV VWPBL

I used Fat Beams for awhile which I understand is pretty much the same the Hi-beams, but slower wound and a little more bottom end. Liked them a lot, but tried the CK's due to the variety available for alternate tunings and the tapered ends. I have a feeling I will wind up on Fat Beams at least for the standard BEADG stuff - I like the 130 B. I may try some custom sets of Hi-Beams or SS Lo-Riders for the alternate tunings I use.

DR Lo-Rider: stainles steel, round wound on hexagonal core, medium 45/65/85/105. I like the depth of tone yet bright high end, perfect stiffness. At first I wasn't use to these strings but decided to give them a little time to allow them to grow on me!

I have always used Ernie Ball Hybrid Slinky but Todd set me up with the Cobalts to try and so far I'm liking these as they have a familiar tone that I had with the hybrids yet seem to react well with the active pickups.

When I got my first Euro 5LX I was using nickel Lo-Riders, but found them a bit dull for my taste after breaking in. I had one set of SS Lo-Riders I tried but they didn't sound god out of the package to me ears. Maybe it was a bum set. Definitely need to try them again.

I think I stayed away from using the Cobalts much at the time since they didn't make a 45-65-85-105-130 set and I had to buy two sets to make that set and sell off the extras. I see now Jason at BSO has Cobalts available separately including a 135 so I may try those out as well.

I may have a lot of Spector NS-5XL cut lightly-used strings available in the near future!
 
For you sweaty guys, have you tried denatured alcohol? I've been getting good results cleaning strings that way. I am the same way - I make strings dull with sweat and dirt long before they have a chance to wear out. This happens to me even when I'm not sweating. I wahs my hands before I play and wipe my strings down between every song at home or rehearsal. For shows, the strings are assumed to be goners until I soak them. I soak the strings overnight, let them air dry and they're 95% new sounding.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.