The better solution would be to cut the saddles with a nut file the same way you'd cut a nut. You cut the slot angled towards the anchor point. If you did that, you'd be able to have the saddles flat with a sharp well defined witness point for the string. Better intonation easier to set up. The break angle happens naturally as the saddle is high enough above the ball end of the string where it's anchored to the bridge. More than enough to keep it seated in the saddle.
I always wondered about that, because I've definitely seen different "cuts" made to the same type of saddle. Most of the variation I saw was in the saddles that did not have intonation screws... They tended to be the older block-slide design that you had to keep locked to prevent them from tumbling out when changing strings.
Anybody here got pictures of un-strung saddles on current basses? Are your bridge slots biased towards the nut? Or are they almost centered?
but.... Anyways. So I don't get in trouble.. here's a pic of my bridge

I have both bass and treble boosted 10% and it sounds great.