Spector Club - Part 7

[PhatBasstard]

NS-2A models were made with a totally different grade maple than their USA counterparts.

The USA models use AAAA grade quilted maple. Much heavier.

The NS-2A was great for what they were. And the maple that was used to make their bodies is on par with the maple Spector uses to make the current legend models.

It's solid maple but just not the really high grade stuff used in the USA workshop.

My NS-2A weighs about the same as my Euro, but is noticably lighter than my USA.

One of the basses shipped to me for BPL was a new Legend6-Classic. One solid, heavy piece of wood. And the quilt top is beautiful. But really thin. The majority of the body consists of this massive chunk of solid maple.
IMHO, it's all good.

My US is a solid red, so I'm assuming the "quilt" or "flame" isn't that stunning underneath. My highly figured Euro4 is about as heavy (maybe heavier) than my US. The Legend 6 (bubinga) is about the same weight to a little heavier than the other two. I remember my old NS5CRFM (35") being noticably the heaviest of them all.

 

[XtraLongScale]

NS-2A models were made with a totally different grade maple than their USA counterparts.

The USA models use AAAA grade quilted maple. Much heavier.

While I'm sure the grade of maple was different between Korean and US Spectors of the era I'm having a hard time seeing any bass manufacturer in the late 80's (especially Kramer) using AAAA grade maple for their solid colored basses, which were the majority of NS models then.

 

[Zapp]

ok just sold my sterling 4 and got good $$ for it, may have to sell the Hamer Cruise. I need ONE good 5-string with the fat bottom and dialable mids...
Someone here educate me on the spec.

I obviously like fast necks, and other things being equal would actually prefer short-scale this go-round but some say short-scale and B-string do not work. sounds like a challenge

 

[pickles]

I just installed a set of Spector Stainless strings on my 1994 NS-5P, and I love the tone. But they won't intonate (If 12th fret is in tune 24th fret is crazy sharp), and they sound chorusy and are double-toning from the 10th fret up. Worst I've ever heard. I was very careful on install and didn't twist the cores, I even released the strings and brought them back up to make sure. I moved the pickups way away from the strings and it made no difference. Anybody ever experienced this? Is there a string set out there that gets a similar tone (really meaty and growly) but actually plays in tune?

 

[bobunit]

Here is what I don't get: EMG stuff is all about the quick connect, solderless install, plug and play etc. If the BQC system is meant to only work with EMG pickups why is it not designed to all just click together with the quick connects????

You should contact EMG about that. I would be curious to see what their response is.

 

[crimson_basser]

ok just sold my sterling 4 and got good $$ for it, may have to sell the Hamer Cruise. I need ONE good 5-string with the fat bottom and dialable mids...
Someone here educate me on the spec.

I obviously like fast necks, and other things being equal would actually prefer short-scale this go-round but some say short-scale and B-string do not work. sounds like a challenge

I had a Legend Custom 5. To me, the neck was perfect, it wasnt too heavy, played so nice, so smooth. The sound was so much better than any other comparable bass in that price range.

I replaced it with an NS 2000/5 which is quite similar in most ways. It`s finished a little differently, it`s neck through body built and the the top horn is a little more pointy.

You can find either used for under 700$ most of the time. Awesome deals for what youre getting.

Id go for it. (I already did )

 

[PhatBasstard]

You can find either used for under 700$ most of the time. Awesome deals for what youre getting.

Don't know about other areas, but here in Vegas I can find Legends in Pawn Shops almost any day of the week, often the "Customs" with set neck and 3 band EQ's, usually for $300-$450 asking price. Always selling for less.

 

[JPSBassist]

I just installed a set of Spector Stainless strings on my 1994 NS-5P, and I love the tone. But they won't intonate (If 12th fret is in tune 24th fret is crazy sharp), and they sound chorusy and are double-toning from the 10th fret up. Worst I've ever heard. I was very careful on install and didn't twist the cores, I even released the strings and brought them back up to make sure. I moved the pickups way away from the strings and it made no difference. Anybody ever experienced this? Is there a string set out there that gets a similar tone (really meaty and growly) but actually plays in tune?

Did you stretch the strings after putting them on the first time?
If you didn't that's the most likely culprit. You have to stretch them or intonation is pretty much impossible in my experience.

 

[crimson_basser]

Don't know about other areas, but here in Vegas I can find Legends in Pawn Shops almost any day of the week, often the "Customs" with set neck and 3 band EQ's, usually for $300-$450 asking price. Always selling for less.

Well there you go! Haha
Also, Im thinking in Canadian dollars and with the brokerage markup, we usually see them for just over 500$ used. New, theyre closer to 900$.

 

[pickles]

Did you stretch the strings after putting them on the first time?
If you didn't that's the most likely culprit. You have to stretch them or intonation is pretty much impossible in my experience.

I didn't. I got out of that habit since it isn't reccomended with the strings I usually use. I'll give it a shot. Any specific stretching technique?

 

[Hugh Jass]

and they sound chorusy and are double-toning from the 10th fret up.

I had this same issue when I tried SS strings on my L2000. Here is what I found helped:

First off, make sure your bridge saddles are angled back at approximately the same angle as the headstock but sloped the opposite way. Then, where the strings come over each saddle, give them a push down so that they kink and you have a nice sharp angle at the saddle "witness point". This is especially important on un-tapered B and E strings and makes tuning and intonating much easier. I have found (especially on my G&L) that this takes a lot of the overtones and chorusing out.

If that doesn't help then it's back to nickels for you

 

[rovito]

Subscribed.

 

[peledog]

After playing my NS-2A through my Zoom, using headphone, I noticed that the D and G strings were not as loud. Both PUPs are equidistant from the strings. Anyone know what would cause this irregularity in volume between strings?

Also, I was thinking I'd replace the P/J with these EMGs

http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/product/EMG-EMGPJ-Active-Bass-Pickup-Set?sku=301519

Would there be any benefit in getting active PUPs? It seems passive EMG PUPs in the P/J config have been discontinued.

Found a set of passives on eBay
http://cgi.ebay.com/EMG-PJHZ-Passiv...092?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item2eb0749d5c

What's the difference? Do the actives add anything to the tone?

Thanks for any input!

 

[PhatBasstard]

After playing my NS-2A through my Zoom, using headphone, I noticed that the D and G strings were not as loud. Both PUPs are equidistant from the strings. Anyone know what would cause this irregularity in volume between strings?

Also, I was thinking I'd replace the P/J with these EMGs

http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/product/EMG-EMGPJ-Active-Bass-Pickup-Set?sku=301519

Would there be any benefit in getting active PUPs? It seems passive EMG PUPs in the P/J config have been discontinued.

Found a set of passives on eBay
http://cgi.ebay.com/EMG-PJHZ-Passiv...092?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item2eb0749d5c

What's the difference? Do the actives add anything to the tone?

Thanks for any input!

I did this to one of my NS2A's years ago. I had an unused set of active EMG PJ's laying around and wired them up to the Haz Lab style pre (wiring the extra red wire from the pickups to the battery for power of course ). The tone was immediately better and the output was also greater.

I've heard others say they didn't get much difference.

 

[DGbass70]

After playing my NS-2A through my Zoom, using headphone, I noticed that the D and G strings were not as loud. Both PUPs are equidistant from the strings. Anyone know what would cause this irregularity in volume between strings?

Also, I was thinking I'd replace the P/J with these EMGs

http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/product/EMG-EMGPJ-Active-Bass-Pickup-Set?sku=301519

Would there be any benefit in getting active PUPs? It seems passive EMG PUPs in the P/J config have been discontinued.

Found a set of passives on eBay
http://cgi.ebay.com/EMG-PJHZ-Passiv...092?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item2eb0749d5c

What's the difference? Do the actives add anything to the tone?

Thanks for any input!

I had it done to 1 of my NS2a's and it sounded great,also i sold a set of emg's to another tber for the same purpose and he was happy with the change.

 

[Karnival]

Want a number in this Spector club

 

[Karnival]

ok just sold my sterling 4 and got good $$ for it, may have to sell the Hamer Cruise. I need ONE good 5-string with the fat bottom and dialable mids...
Someone here educate me on the spec.

I obviously like fast necks, and other things being equal would actually prefer short-scale this go-round but some say short-scale and B-string do not work. sounds like a challenge

Would recommend the Spector Coda 5 34" scale length.. the only downside is that this bass are their new offering for 2011, so you need to wait till' next year to get one .

But with Aguilar electronics and pickups you cant fail

 

[XtraLongScale]

Would recommend the Spector Coda 5 34" scale length.. the only downside is that this bass are their new offering for 2011, so you need to wait till' next year to get one

There's a couple available on ebay right now.

 

[XtraLongScale]

I had it done to 1 of my NS2a's and it sounded great.

Still does

 

[bobunit]

Updated 1-5-2011, 10:07 AM MST

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