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Spector Club Pt. 4 (Insert Clever Title Here)

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#522
I dont remember off-hand, but I think the Ns-2B's were passive...My NS-2C's are both passive, and the switch is a pickup selector...kinda handy actually.
JPSBassist said:
I agree. This is a stock looking Kramer NS-2B. There's been a metallic green one for sale here in Los Angeles on Craigslist for months.

They have the general Spector body shape, but the surfaces are flat and they have sharpened edges. I've never been crazy about their design.

I've never played on either. They seem to be a lot less common than the NS2A models. For every 2 dozen NS2As I see for sale, I might see one of these.

I'd be interested to see what sort of electronics it has. The toggle switch is interesting to me.
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#524
NS2A said:
I've seen those specs a lot on lower end basses. It's just the pores in the wood opened up. Nothing to worry about.
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Since I saw those pores as completely normal and nothing to worry about, this probably tells me that all the instruments I've had have been "lower end". (Even the Spector I have is low end... for Spector.) I didn't even blink an eye at it, unlike the OP who asked the question.

Huh.
 
#525
gus1894 said:
JPS... Will the Behlen Fingerboard Oil actually clean out said wax (If it is in fact wax)?
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I honestly don't know. But I know the fingerboard oil couldn't hurt.

A few things about used lower-end guitars. They usually aren't made with the best materials. And although I own a 10 year-old Spector Q4 Korean-made bass, and it's really a pretty nice bass considering it's a "low-end" Spector, the truth is that the fretboards and necks on my NS2A and my Euro are much better quality.

That and you really can never tell the environment/care that a used guitar comes from. It could just be that your new bass was kept in less than ideal conditions and the board is dry.

I have a large reptile cage in my little home studio and I always make sure I keep my guitars and equipment on the other side of the room from it. The UVA and UVB bulbs needed to keep my Dragon healthy, would fry the wood on these guitars quickly (it's basically intense direct sunlight).

My point is that the cause could be a number of things... and as long as the fretboard is healthy, not cracking, splitting or peeling, the white stuff is propably harmless.

But if it bothers or worries you, an application of the Behlen Fingerboard Oil can't hurt it. And if nothing else, it'll hydrate and protect the fretboard from any further damage by natural causes.

I hope this helps! And enjoy your Spector. If you're like most of us, you'll get the fever and be moving up to better models in no time. My Q4 lead me to my NS2A to my Euro4LX and when I can swing it... a USA NS2.

Cheers!
 
#526
Thundar said:
I dont remember off-hand, but I think the Ns-2B's were passive...My NS-2C's are both passive, and the switch is a pickup selector...kinda handy actually.
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Yeah I've often wondered about a total Spector re-wire, adding a toggle switch for pickup selection and then being able to wire a mid-range tone control pot in the freed-up pickup volume spot. Then take the first pickup volume pot and make it a master volume.

I kinda wish there was a little more tone-control in the pre-amp setups... it might really help the Tone-Pump's issues.

I'm actually installing active EMG's on my NS2A this weekend. I'm excited to hear the difference.
 
#528
It's interesting with the discussion of "open pores" and dry fretboards - for some reason, every one of my Spectors that have come my way, new or used, fretted or fretless, in various Seasons and Weather, have arrived with what I'd consider pretty intensely dried-out fingerboards. I *know* it's not a condition of low-quality wood as the first thing I do after unboxing is my typical "New Bass Setup" which consists of a good cleaning or wipedown of the body, removal of the stock strings for my "standard" D'addario ProSteels on fretted or EXP Coated Nickelwound for my fretless (although I've typically saved the "new" Spector strings & re-vacuum pack them with a kitchen vacuum appliance for "a rainy day" when I feel like trying something new or as "Emergency Strings"), at least one application of Dunlop 01 Fretboard Cleaner & Prep and 02 Fretboard Deep Conditioner (I *highly* recommend these as well as Dunlop's Polishes and Cleaners for both Everyday and "Season's Cleanings" ;) ) and installation of Dunlop Strap Loks onto the bass and it's new strap... and after my cleaning, polishing and oiling the fretboards take on a lovely sheen and show very nice grain patterns.

With my most recent purchase of a ReBop 5 DLX EX Zebrawood-top, the fretboard was so dry that it took three 15-minute "soakings" until the fretboard had turned from an extremely dry, light brown board to a moisturized piece of wood with very nice dark color and grain patterns... which also helps the MOP Crown Inlays *pop* in contrast more. As I stated, it's been both new fretted & fretless basses (from very reputably dealers that I'd certainly purchase from again) as well as super well-kept used basses of the Euro "level" of price and Quality Control with no pattern of weather or season that I can detect that have shown very nicely figured pieces of Rosewood after, but the initial conditioning is a must, and odd when far lower-priced basses I've owned have had nothing close to the need.

Is it just Gus and I or has anyone else have this "issue"? (I wouldn't good so far as to call it a "problem", as it's easily correctable) I'm interested in if it's simply luck of the draw or "A Spector Thing"
 
#530
Jasonger said:
Here's a beauty that just went up on ebay.http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320490980482&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123 Very nice looking. That black cherry finish is starting to call my name.....:help:
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Yeah, that's hot.
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#532
Hey everyone! I got my new Euro4LX from Beaver at Bass Central this past week. Shout out to Beaver and crew for an amazing good deal.
Anyway... I couldn't wait to try and get some nice artsy photos of the wood grain using the same shooting conditions as I did for my NS2a and my Steinberger.
Here they are!

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#533
I just want to remind everybody who has requested a number in the club that I do have every request in my inbox and will, HOPEFULLY, be updating the list with the new members really soon. Thanks for your patience and keep posting your Spector porn. Remember, no small pics are accepted in this thread. We wanna see all that Spector beauty!
 
#535
Have had this for a couple months now but I finally tracked down my camera battery. Satin finish Zebrano Rebop or "Zebop". Hipshot ultralight tuners but stock otherwise.

Gratuitous hardwood floor shots:
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It sounds sooo good. It does aggressive or more aggressive :bassist:. I have played a couple other Rebops that have great sizzle but this one sounds massive with tons of low mid growl. I looked up Zebrano and it rates quite a bit harder than Maple so perhaps that is why it sounds so huge and focused. The low B cannot be faulted and sounds perfectly defined up to about G before giving up some sizzle. The B is also plenty taut. On a side note, as some have found, a non tapered 130 B string will not fit in the stock bridge. The aluminum bridge however is no match for a decent flat needle file and now fits the 130 no problem.

As I mentioned I have had this for a couple months and the honeymoon has worn off and yet it's the only bass I have played since getting it home :p.

I don't really need a number. Just wanted to show it off and brag a bit ;)
 
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