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Split Coils and Ramps or...pickup covers

JES

Supporting Member
Dec 12, 2003
3,780
5,880
Montreal, Quebec, Canada
I don't see a lot of pictures of basses with split coil pickups and ramps. Is it just that the people into ramps are into more "modern" tones, and the P- and PJ-bass players aren't interested? Do they hide the P in a soapbar cover for looks?

I've been considering adding a ramp, or some kind of alternative wood or plastic pickup covers to my Lull PJ -- the pole pieces on those pickups are too sharp to use them in a ramp-like way. My custom 4-string has G&L pickups, but aren't radiused, but don't have sharp edges, so I've been making do, but I'm thinking about taking the next step....

I'd love to know what others with similar basses (any brand) have done. Pictures would be great.
 
I recently installed a ramp on my Yamaha BB434 with PJ pickup configuration (see attached pictures). I made the ramp myself from a piece of scrap mahogany; I have to admit, though, that I had access to a professional luthier workshop with all the necessary equipment. In the hindsight, most of the work can be done using hand tools - it just takes more time to fine tune the shape. After sanding the ramp with a sequence of sand papers of increasing grit (the finest being 600-grit), the ramp was finished with multiple coats of Danish oil and finally polished with 1200-grit sand paper wetted by the same Danish oil to achieve a nice, smooth surface.

The ramp has a radiused top surface with the radius of curvature 10 inches, corresponding to the fingerboard's radius of curvature. Also, the top surface of the ramp is slightly sloped (the ramp is taller at the bridge J-pickup than at the neck P-pickup), following the instructions posted by Gary Willis at Invalid Link Removed. The height drop between the pickups is about 0.7 mm in my case. Regarding the string height, I went for the following string distances from the ramp surface: 5 mm for the E-string, 4.5 mm for the A-string, 4.3 mm for the D-string, and 4 mm for the G-string. Having played the bass for a while, I would probably go for a closer spacing next time. Currently, the ramp is holding on the bass just by friction between the ramp wood and the side walls of the pickups. If that presents a problem in the future, it can be attached using double-sided tape.

First impressions from playing the bass with the ramp are 100% positive. After using it for a couple of weeks, I could already feel my plucking hand started lightening and I was able to play faster. I'm just afraid it will become addictive and I won't be able to play basses without a ramp :)
 

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These probably aren't the split-coils you were hoping for but I have ramps on almost all of my basses. I don't have one on my P only because I mounted a thumbrest near the bridge years ago. For me, I would place the ramp on my P bass where that thumbrest is.
 

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  • Ramp (Custom).JPG
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  • body ramp (Large).JPG
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  • P1010137 (Custom).JPG
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  • P1010142 (Custom).JPG
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  • thumb rest.JPG
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I recently installed a ramp on my Yamaha BB434 with PJ pickup configuration (see attached pictures). I made the ramp myself from a piece of scrap mahogany; I have to admit, though, that I had access to a professional luthier workshop with all the necessary equipment. In the hindsight, most of the work can be done using hand tools - it just takes more time to fine tune the shape. After sanding the ramp with a sequence of sand papers of increasing grit (the finest being 600-grit), the ramp was finished with multiple coats of Danish oil and finally polished with 1200-grit sand paper wetted by the same Danish oil to achieve a nice, smooth surface.

The ramp has a radiused top surface with the radius of curvature 10 inches, corresponding to the fingerboard's radius of curvature. Also, the top surface of the ramp is slightly sloped (the ramp is taller at the bridge J-pickup than at the neck P-pickup), following the instructions posted by Gary Willis at Invalid Link Removed. The height drop between the pickups is about 0.7 mm in my case. Regarding the string height, I went for the following string distances from the ramp surface: 5 mm for the E-string, 4.5 mm for the A-string, 4.3 mm for the D-string, and 4 mm for the G-string. Having played the bass for a while, I would probably go for a closer spacing next time. Currently, the ramp is holding on the bass just by friction between the ramp wood and the side walls of the pickups. If that presents a problem in the future, it can be attached using double-sided tape.

First impressions from playing the bass with the ramp are 100% positive. After using it for a couple of weeks, I could already feel my plucking hand started lightening and I was able to play faster. I'm just afraid it will become addictive and I won't be able to play basses without a ramp :)

I know this is an old thread, but thanks for sharing! I've been playing on a ramped stingray for a while and just got a 434 for my birthday. I really appreciate your notes as I'm already missing that ramp. Now I have a new project!
 
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