Came clean off. What would be the best way to reattach this? I'm thinking a glue but what type?
It also has small nails in it that aren't visible from the outside. Maybe a few reinforcements after the glue?
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Split my SVT810 last night... HELP!
- Thread starter watchitmike
- Start date
Came clean off. What would be the best way to reattach this? I'm thinking a glue but what type?
It also has small nails in it that aren't visible from the outside. Maybe a few reinforcements after the glue?
Pull out the nails, scrape off the splinters or chunks with a chisel and sand the wood so everything looks somewhat smooth. I recommend PL Adhesive. It's a construction grade polyurethane adhesive that expands a bit while curing to give an airtight seal. Many of the DIY cab builders use it, including me. Use with care! Draw a bead all the way around, then nail it in place with a pin nail gun or finishing nails to hold it in place while the glue sets. Do not wipe any oozes! Lop them off with a chisel or razor when fully cured. (You may wish to protect your cabs outside with masking tape just in case.) The glue, not the finishing nails, will be doing the work here. This will be stronger than when built!
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And be a little kinder to it when you get it fixed, too. Looks like you've really put the whoop-ass on it.
Once you get it glued back on you can always use some "Bondo" to fill in the gaps and smooth everything out.
BurningSkies
CRAZY BALDHEAD
- Feb 20, 2005
- 27,956
- 20,348
- Disclosures
- Endorsing artist: Dingwall Guitars
Use PL Premium. It's expanding, so it will fill any gaps or holes as it dries. It will also be stronger that the crappy chipboard the cab is built with.
Came clean off. What would be the best way to reattach this? I'm thinking a glue but what type?
It also has small nails in it that aren't visible from the outside. Maybe a few reinforcements after the glue?
I would NOT " sand it smooth" !! Those " little nails " are Brads used in the assembly. Pull out the Brads, and re-assemble it with Carpenters Glue ( NOT White Glue !! ). The reason for NOT sanding is : The irregular surfaces will mate up better than a smooth surface, giving the glue a better grip. If you want more peace of mind.... after it is glued, drive in some small woodscrews as well. DONT FORGET to drill " pilot " holes in the piece you are re-attaching. This way, the wood screws will not split the piece you are re-attaching.
This advice is from building Boat Models for a few years.
billfitzmaurice
Commercial User
- Sep 15, 2004
- 16,860
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- Owner, Bill Fitzmaurice Loudspeaker Design
Do not use carpenters glue, use PL Premium as already mentioned. This advise is from building speakers for 40 years.
Came clean off. What would be the best way to reattach this? I'm thinking a glue but what type?
It also has small nails in it that aren't visible from the outside. Maybe a few reinforcements after the glue?
FAIL!
If you were here in FL i would say its totally toast and i'll give ya $100 for it
glue it up , secure it with screws and rock on. Be a little more careful this time....:scowl:
Seriously, I have beat my 810s to hell, even broke off casters dropping it off the back of a pickup truck in winter, but I've never, EVER seen that. Good job.
BurningSkies
CRAZY BALDHEAD
- Feb 20, 2005
- 27,956
- 20,348
- Disclosures
- Endorsing artist: Dingwall Guitars
PL Premium > Carpenter's Glue > White Glue > Grade School Paste >Spit.
Its strong enough that you don't need screws, nails or any other kind of fastener and it expands so it seals as it goes. Its also easy to work with...wear gloves otherwise it takes a couple weeks to get off the skin...
I know... this looks pretty bad. I am good to this cabinet though, I promise. It was a rescue that I got with a couple speakers missing. I replaced those, fixed some wiring, put new wheels on it and did the Duratex coating myself a few months ago. The bottom definitely takes the hardest beating though. It sees a lot of concrete floors and goes up and down a lot of narrow stairs. I will keep a closer eye on it after this though. I think the stairs caused this.
Thanks for all the advice. I got the Loctite and I'm gonna reattach it this week.
Thanks for all the advice. I got the Loctite and I'm gonna reattach it this week.
Its strong enough that you don't need screws, nails or any other kind of fastener and it expands so it seals as it goes. Its also easy to work with...wear gloves otherwise it takes a couple weeks to get off the skin...
True, however you'll need something to hold it tight and in position while the glue dries. If you're not using an air nailer, I'd drill pilot holes with either screws or nails. Screws won't add any strength to cured PL, but could save you having to clamp or weight the joint while it dries. To drill pilot holes for nails, clip the head off of one of the nails and use it as a drill bit just as you would any other. Stack weights on it or use ratchet tie down straps while it cures.
Oh, and when removing the old nails, try pulling them straight through rather than trying to hammer them back out. Use a pair of diagonal wire cutters. Easier and less mess than trying to push them through the finish- not that anyone would notice on your cab!
