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spokeshave question

And what about the angle of the knife?? blade (de las cuchillas)?? I read on some forum that the angle of how the knife/blade of handplanes and spokeshave have something to do with the quality of the cut... that and your technique.

(it's blade)

Not really the quality of the cut. Different angles are for different types of cut or grain structures. A low angle is prefered for end grain and side grain, while a high angle is generally for figured woods. There's quite a bit of information on the web about planes (a spokeshave is a type of plane) and the book 'The Hand Plane Book' is an excellent resource for the plane enthusiast.

My experience is that good cuts with a hand plane has less to do with technique and more to do with having a well tuned plane and using the right type for the wood at hand. Oh, and don't forget a well sharpened and honed blade!
 
interesting thread...here's what i use...old horse-shoe file left over from my wrangler days...moves a lot of material in a hurry & is an accurate method of keeping true to the design in my experience
use it for profiling my neck backs as well
probably not as quick as other methods but i'm just hobby shoping so time is not usually a factor...plus the hand work is a kind of meditative medium for me
haven't had any problems with tear-outs using it even though the purpleheart seems to be a little bit "chippy"
i get it close with this & then go to a sanding board with 40/80/120 grit for finish work
lam15.jpg


best to all
 
I like to shape bass bodies the same way I shape chairs; I do primary shaping with a band saw, followed by a combination of Nicholson patternmakers' rasps (#49 and #50), and spoke shaves, followed by carving tools.

My favorite factory-made spokeshaves are the small brass spoke shaves and the Brian Boggs models from Lie-Nielsen. I've also made spoke shaves out of wood (using blades from Ron Hock) with which I have been very satisfied (photo).
 
i have a stanley spokeshave that i spent a lot of time tuning up on my first two guitars and they were fine. i sprung for a lie-nielsen spokeshave and i absolutely love it. i prefer using the spokeshave to remove most of the material. after that i go to rasps and files then on to sandpaper by sanding block and fingers around the volute.

i dont have anyway of controlling large amounts of sanding dust so i try to stick with planes and shaves for neck shaping.

i do need to come up with a shave-horse of some kind for this job.