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Spray Guns

#4
iamlowsound said:
I have been looking into buying a spray gun, and it seems like there is a million different styles out there. I am looking for something under $100, easy to use without a lot of overspray. I will also be using it for some furniture in the future.

lowsound
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I would recommend a gravity feed, the cheaper models are usually pretty much the same gun.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed] is the one I use, it works just fine. I tend to avoid HVLP, I can never seem to get enough finish laid down to avoid heavy orange peel, though it is probably user error.
 
#6
I agree about the gravity feed as well. I find siphon fed cup guns to be messy and unreliable for guitars. Its too easy to turn the wrong way and lose suction and then you get blops (not a technical term :p) in your finish. I also prefer a translucent plastic cup. Its less durable but its worth it to be able to see the material level when working on furniture projects. Again, its never good to start running out of material while spraying a table top. Blop! :crying:

I've been using the same fifty dollar gun from Grizzly for the past 3 years. I use it for clear laquer only and it lays down a really nice finish. Mine is hvlp but I've used lvlp and it works well also.
 
#7
Musiclogic said:
I use a Binks Model 7 and a DeVilbiss(unknown model number). Both I got for under $100. That Husky siphopn feed above, I look at everytime I am in Home Depot, I really want a gravity feed, going to try it out.
Thanks for that post Hopkins
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I'm pretty sure all of the cheaper gravity feed guns are the same gun in a different box.

They at least all look the same

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#8
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This is the one I use. I've painted hundreds of car bumpers and wheels with it and a couple guitars. My only complaint is that there isn't a strainer in the bottom of the cup so make sure to strain your paint or stain before putting it in the cup.

Hopkins: If you're getting orange peel with an HVLP turn down the material flow (not too much though) and/or move the gun faster. With the gun above I can lay down clear that looks like a mirror but it may take two or three fast swipes to look glossy instead of one slow one that lays down too much material at once. The air blowing into that one heavy coat causes the orange peal. It also helps me gauge how much I'm laying down. If the second swipe isn't glossy I know I need another one.
 
#9
LB75 said:
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This is the one I use. I've painted hundreds of car bumpers and wheels with it and a couple guitars. My only complaint is that there isn't a strainer in the bottom of the cup so make sure to strain your paint or stain before putting it in the cup.

Hopkins: If you're getting orange peel with an HVLP turn down the material flow (not too much though) and/or move the gun faster. With the gun above I can lay down clear that looks like a mirror but it may take two or three fast swipes to look glossy instead of one slow one that lays down too much material at once. The air blowing into that one heavy coat causes the orange peal. It also helps me gauge how much I'm laying down. If the second swipe isn't glossy I know I need another one.
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In my experience orange peel comes from not getting enough finish laid down, and the thin coat flashes off before it has a chance to flow out. A heavy coat causes runs, not orange peel. Its a pretty fine line between the two, but a run is easier to level out than orange peel. I always strain my finishes before they go into the gun, I have never used the strainer in the cup.

I can get nitro to lay down ok if I mix it 4-2-1, lacquer-thinner-retarder. The retarder is necessary because its a hot mixture with that much thinner, it dries to quick. I still get better results with my non HVLP gun, so I never use it.

I am going to have to buy another gun because I sprayed metallics, and no matter how much I clean it, I cant get all of the flake out of it. So that gun is going to be used only for metallics and primer from now on.
 
#11
iamlowsound said:
Thanks for all the help guys, I think I'll go with a gravity fed HVLP gun. Now I just have to decide what to spray, I would like a nice water based lacquer. Any recommendations?

lowsound
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Its not water based, but I have had good luck with Behlens stringed instrument lacquer. I don't use the "required" vinyl sealer. I just thin the lacquer at a 1-1 ratio, and lay down two coats, then sand.
 
#12
Hopkins said:
In my experience orange peel comes from not getting enough finish laid down, and the thin coat flashes off before it has a chance to flow out. A heavy coat causes runs, not orange peel. Its a pretty fine line between the two, but a run is easier to level out than orange peel. I always strain my finishes before they go into the gun, I have never used the strainer in the cup.

I can get nitro to lay down ok if I mix it 4-2-1, lacquer-thinner-retarder. The retarder is necessary because its a hot mixture with that much thinner, it dries to quick. I still get better results with my non HVLP gun, so I never use it.

I am going to have to buy another gun because I sprayed metallics, and no matter how much I clean it, I cant get all of the flake out of it. So that gun is going to be used only for metallics and primer from now on.
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I guess orange peel can be caused by several factors, my experience is opposite of yours but I mainly spray auto paint so that may make a difference too. Yeah I have a clear only gun and one for color. Almost every color I spray has metallic so I don't have a separate gun non-metallic. I know what you mean, I can clean my gun 3 times and still see flakes in the lacquer thinner. I've never sprayed any kind of stain I'd be interested in learning about that too. Bursts mainly.
 
#13
LB75 said:
I guess orange peel can be caused by several factors, my experience is opposite of yours but I mainly spray auto paint so that may make a difference too. Yeah I have a clear only gun and one for color. Almost every color I spray has metallic so I don't have a separate gun non-metallic. I know what you mean, I can clean my gun 3 times and still see flakes in the lacquer thinner. I've never sprayed any kind of stain I'd be interested in learning about that too. Bursts mainly.
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Strange, I find it the same with automotive finishes also. When its hot day (90 to 100 degrees) I get more orange peel, than on a cool day where the paint can flow out more before flashing off.
 
#14
Hmm...that is weird. I seldom get orange peel, usually my screw ups are runs in the clear, not very often, usually around a tight contour or something. In the summer I use a slow reducer but you're right, cooler days are better. I don't know about Texas but here in Georgia we have a lot of humidity to deal with too. I keep a close eye on the dew point.
 
#15
Musiclogic said:
I use a Binks Model 7 and a DeVilbiss(unknown model number). Both I got for under $100. That Husky siphopn feed above, I look at everytime I am in Home Depot, I really want a gravity feed, going to try it out.
Thanks for that post Hopkins
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+1 for the DeVilbiss. I've used mine on both cars and guitars with beauty results.
FWIW the cardinal lacquer from lmii is terribly easy to use.
 
#17
LB75 said:
Hmm...that is weird. I seldom get orange peel, usually my screw ups are runs in the clear, not very often, usually around a tight contour or something. In the summer I use a slow reducer but you're right, cooler days are better. I don't know about Texas but here in Georgia we have a lot of humidity to deal with too. I keep a close eye on the dew point.
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I live close to the Gulf of Mexico, so I know about humidity. In the summer here it is never under 90 and never less than 50% humidity, so I just have to make do, or wait till October to spray anything :smug:
 
#18
Researching guns myself at the moment also. What paints are you using and where do you get them?

I finished my first refurb using rattle can paint and it turned out pretty well so I'm thinking a spray gun would be great. There's an auto paint place locally, but they quoted me close to $200 for the supplies. I'm looking for something less expensive. What about the paints from the auto parts place...the Duplicolor quart cans specifically. Any input on those?
 
#19
R-e t-a r-d back your lacquer, and you can shoot all day in 90%+ humidity.....LOL learned how to do that when I was in Cape Coral, Florida for a few years. I shot Nitro and acrylic in a loft above my shop which was in a steel warehouse, and no A/C. Love Texas, North and South of Houston are cool areas north of Bush Airport or South of Hobby....outside the Sam Houston basically. LOL

Camardelle.....Some people have had good luck with the Duplicolor stuff. I find using House of Kolor, Sikkens, PPG, Ditzler and Dupont products. The first 2 are my favorite for spraying opaque colors. But Automotive finishes are very expensive and you have to know your quantities before getting into doing them, it's a completely different world than shooting rattle can stuff.

I would reccommend getting a "Critter" spray gun from Rockler and a small compressor to start learning to spray, and move up from there. The Critter gun is very simple, but will lay down an excellent finish when used properly, and they are very simple to learn to use. I still use both of min when spraying bursts, they are awesome for the new gun shooter.
 
#20
I never spray lacquer with out retarder. It makes it lay down so much nicer than without.

I live in Pasadena which is on the south east side of Houston, and only because its close to the ship channel and there are a ton of plants in the area. There are some cool places inside the 610 loop like the Heights and Midtown.

I'm actually jealous of Brandon, I would already be in Austin if it made sence financally. I would miss the Gulf, but Lake Travis and the close proximity to the hill country and those lovely cold rivers would more than make up for it.
 
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