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Squier CV decal removal

I doubt they used a decal - too hard to even out the edges unless they put quite a few coats of clear - with sanding in between - on it.

It's usually a silk screen process and it is very fragile. Once you break into it you can switch to 1200# and that way you won't cut into the flake if you know what you're doing.

Look - I've done this a few times already on other instruments - it can be done.
 
The description on the site that claims to have it for sale says mint-green pickguard, but the picture shows white. Mint would seem to be horrible with the blue, but the blue body is nice with the white.

I agree that the head logo is too loud, but then again the band logo is an even bigger turn-off for me. I've never been too fond of colored headstocks in the first place, so if it were me I'd buy another CV neck from eBay and put the blue one in the closet.

I'm assuming this neck has vintage profile frets, since it's a CV, but if it doesn't, that's another reason to swap necks, IMHO.
The band logo is a turn off but it's so small and black I don't think it takes away from the look.

I love mint with solid colors :) But that's just taste. And a pickguard is cheap.

If we go with a new neck Warmoth or Status might be a choice. Any standard Fender neck should fit. But at that point it would make more sense to just buy the MIM Fender. It's a shame the LPB ones aren't showing up used yet.
 
It's usually a silk screen process and it is very fragile. Once you break into it you can switch to 1200# and that way you won't cut into the flake if you know what you're doing.

Look - I've done this a few times already on other instruments - it can be done.
The silk screened ones you've seen, are they under all the clear coats or does it vary? One post in the other thread implied it was on top of the clear coats and he got it off with nail polish remover.

I'm looking at an Ibanez TR right now and it looks like the logo was printed on as the final step. I've got a Peavey and Fernandes that also look like there's no clear coat on the logo. But I have a MIM Fender and it looks like the logo is underneath.
 
If your that embarrassed to buy a Squier that you want to remove the logo then don't buy it.

You know what else is embarrassing? Not reading a thread that covers the reason something is going to be done a few times and then trying to look cool in it by trying to get in a clever troll post.

Well maybe you'd be cool if you were the first to try it but so many beat you to it ;)
 
I was curious about the nail polish remover method so I just tried it (I'm planning on disassembling, lightly sanding and painting this very soon anyway) it worked for me but my headstock is not painted/clearcoated so we are not comparing apples to apples. Also be aware that the Squier emblem will be visible in negative after.
IMAG0283.jpg
 
The silk screened ones you've seen, are they under all the clear coats or does it vary? One post in the other thread implied it was on top of the clear coats and he got it off with nail polish remover.

I'm looking at an Ibanez TR right now and it looks like the logo was printed on as the final step. I've got a Peavey and Fernandes that also look like there's no clear coat on the logo. But I have a MIM Fender and it looks like the logo is underneath.

The Ibanez is a different animal I believe - at least my SR and AEB are not under thick clear coat.

I had a friend's Squier that I waxed very strongly with lots of pressure and resulting heat from friction, and it was cutting through the logo very easily. That may be an exception though.

None of my Squiers would yield the logo with just wax or cutting compound - but I did a couple of VMs for a guy who wanted to install custom logos, and I just cut the logos off with 800# then 1000# and finally 1200# wet/dry paper, used wet with a tiny drop of dishwashing liquid detergent for a wetting agent.

If you try this, you need a quality 3M hard rubber sanding block held flat to the surface. If you are patient, you won't cut the color underneath it.

Typically, on the VM-Jag neck I bought from a TBer here and I later repainted it, I tried the technique I've posted here (three times now I think) and I could remove the logo without cutting into the black color at all.

Patience, technique and gently persuasion is what's needed.

As far as the shadow effect on a non-painted headstock when you take a logo off and you can see the outline like a strap on a tan line ---- well, I don't think it'll blend in very quickly - if at all in your lifetime, no matter how much sunshine it gets.
 
So then you will also refinish the neck too?

I like AC Stripper as much as anybody, but it is pretty hard to keep it in any sort of boundary so it won't ruin the whole head - front, sides and back too - and then you've gotta find some way to blend the next clear coat to the neck finish.

No - liquid strippers aren't a good option here. Hand sanding the logo and clear coat off is a fast way - and much neater.

I bet if I had that headstock here, I could get the logo off in less than 1/2 hour and still leave the color under it alone --- not to mention the sides, back and still not require any blend lines on the neck too.

You misunderstand. I'm discouraging the entire project.
 
It seems that more effort and complexities are being suggested than are necessary.
As I stated before, why not just get some sticker/sign/business to make a simple Squier decal in black, red, pink, chartruese or whatever color your friend desires and then peel and stick the sticker right over the existing one. Voila, color is changed and no complicated process with room to screw up is even attempted.

PS. I also saw your posts at a later reading of this Darnell Jones. SO the message did reach it's mark.
 
I'm helping a friend find a backup bass and we've decided on the James Johnston Classic Vibe Fender. The criteria are a classic Fender look (good looking clones would work too), LPB, inexpensive and passive. The only thing we don't like is the yellow/gold Squier logo on the headstock.


0301078502_frt_wmd_001.jpg


Suggestions on other budget Fender or Fender clones would be appreciated. The old LPB SX with the old style headstock is another choice if we can find one.

While it may not be an exact clone, the Peavey Mellennium is solid for a $200 bass. I love the neck and playability on mine. I guess it just depends on how close a clone you need, but the headstock looks better than that yellow logo, but that's just my opinion.
 

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