mmm have you removed the decal already? I want to do that to my CV p bass...but I want to know if the logo is on top of the tint and some clear coats...or if it sits on bare wood...which I don't think it does...I just don't want to mess the tint up.
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Squier CV decal removal
- Thread starter Darnell Jones
- Start date
I would try a nice new black Sharpie and carefully color it all black ... no effort at all, and if it wears off or a little thin over time, just redo ... at least your not looking at the gold, and if you ever decide you dont like it, you could probably erase it off with a good pencil eraser without affecting the finish ... the finish on these is VERY durable ...
I just looked at my late 70's Ibanez P. I have a foam mute which I only use on 2 songs. The rest of the time it resides gently wedged between the d and g string and the head stock which leaves it sort of hanging out over the logo. I did it for convenience and cause its the only place I could put it where I'll never forget it. But looking at it after reading this thread I thought it gives my bass a nice "working man" sort of look to the headstock. 
You cannot remove the logo without removing the tint on a classic vibe bass. I had to re-tint and refinish mine.
I would advise against it only because it seems like an awful lot of hassle and/or expense for something so minor. But, if one thinks the hassle is worth it, I say go for it, and the most sensible way is the way SurferJoe suggested. It will require some care and finesse, but it would yield the best results I would think. Oh, and there is a TB'er here who will make custom headstock decals, I would imagine he would be willing to make OP a more attractive Squier one. I believe SurferJoe had one made for him.
I was cleaning a bass for another person, and in what I though was a gentle hand-compounding of the surface I managed to actually cut through the Squier logo off the headstock. Somehow it was so close to the surface that it was easy to remove.
I cannot say this is a rule - but it deserves a try to see if indeed the logo in question is that close to the surface too. Since rubbing compound is a very good cleaner anyway - it won't hurt to try it first. That way there may be no cutting through any tint under it.
However, I hold out that removing a logo will also involve removal of some tint if any method is attempted. I got my Squier logo off without cutting the aging (real aging, not tinted by the factory) and it stands to this day and doesn't look modified at all.
I'd try (in the following order)::
1 - Hand compounding the headstock - (strip the headstock for best and most level results)
2 - 1200# wet/dry sandpaper with water and a few tiny drops of dish washing liquid detergent in it to float the paper well.
One interesting aspect is that if you cut the whole front of the headstock, leaving whatever surface you have left and then when you re-apply a clear coat after the logo/decal is installed, it will be contiguous with the whole front surface and look normal.
One of my favorite clear coats is MinWax's spray urethane Spar Varnish! Really - it works well, has a slight tint to it in heavy and numerous coats and air dries so fast that you can get several coats and sanded layers on the headstock to cover the new logo in a day.
AFTER LOGO AND FIRST COAT OF MINWAX SPAR VARNISH:::
AFTER A FEW MORE COATS OF MINWAX AND SANDING IN BETWEEN COATS:::
THIS PIX KINDA SAYS IT ALL:::
I didn't like the size and/or placement of the logo and decided to change everything one more time though. The yellow headstock was nice, but , ummm --- just not penguin if you follow me here.
Soooo -- I stripped it and bound the headstock for something different:::
I had reordered smaller logos and here's the outcome:::
As one can see - I've had some experience here with this idea.
I cannot say this is a rule - but it deserves a try to see if indeed the logo in question is that close to the surface too. Since rubbing compound is a very good cleaner anyway - it won't hurt to try it first. That way there may be no cutting through any tint under it.
However, I hold out that removing a logo will also involve removal of some tint if any method is attempted. I got my Squier logo off without cutting the aging (real aging, not tinted by the factory) and it stands to this day and doesn't look modified at all.
I'd try (in the following order)::
1 - Hand compounding the headstock - (strip the headstock for best and most level results)
2 - 1200# wet/dry sandpaper with water and a few tiny drops of dish washing liquid detergent in it to float the paper well.
One interesting aspect is that if you cut the whole front of the headstock, leaving whatever surface you have left and then when you re-apply a clear coat after the logo/decal is installed, it will be contiguous with the whole front surface and look normal.
One of my favorite clear coats is MinWax's spray urethane Spar Varnish! Really - it works well, has a slight tint to it in heavy and numerous coats and air dries so fast that you can get several coats and sanded layers on the headstock to cover the new logo in a day.
AFTER LOGO AND FIRST COAT OF MINWAX SPAR VARNISH:::
AFTER A FEW MORE COATS OF MINWAX AND SANDING IN BETWEEN COATS:::
THIS PIX KINDA SAYS IT ALL:::
I didn't like the size and/or placement of the logo and decided to change everything one more time though. The yellow headstock was nice, but , ummm --- just not penguin if you follow me here.
Soooo -- I stripped it and bound the headstock for something different:::
I had reordered smaller logos and here's the outcome:::
As one can see - I've had some experience here with this idea.
... worked fine for me too ... if you use a good marker and kind of dab vs coloring it in it seems to sit a bit thicker ...
... bottom line here, its free, fast, and reversible with a good eraser ...
since the gold was an issue on the painted headstock, this will make the 'Squier' match the 'JAZZ BASS' in black ... heck, if you dont want to use a marker, spend a couple bucks and buy a small bottle of black enamel hobby paint and a ultra thin brush and color between the lines ... if someone is going to go through the touble of taking the bass apart and stripping the entire headstock to put the same logo back on it in a different color, and then refinish again, I sure would try this first ... JMHO
Edit to add: although, Joe, your tuxedo logo and refin looks great ... but not everybody is going to have that time, talent, or ambition
