I don't see a bass.
You better hope your girl either has a great sense of humor or doesn't read you post!
You better hope your girl either has a great sense of humor or doesn't read you post!
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Squier Owners Club
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http://www.talkbass.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=297629&d=1351645297 thats my fenderp bass with my squier jazz.
Cney said:2012 Squier VM 70 Maple body/Maple neck, black block inlay's
New upgraded electronics in (500k CTS pots, Sprague Orange drop capacitor , better grounding, shielded with copper tape).
Babickz full contact bridge.
to do:
Seymour Duncan SJB-1 neck+bridge PU. got them second hand for 100 doll hairs.
Here you see my girlfriend playing it...
two hot blondes lezzing it out
Ok I'll say it. Dude that is sexy as hell. Keep em both.
Man, I WISH I could get my woman to pose with my bass!!
Thanks guys
I am keeping them both for now.
I forgot to mention that i put in a push/pull pot as a serial/parallel switch.
I am keeping them both for now.
I forgot to mention that i put in a push/pull pot as a serial/parallel switch.
How about some gutshot pics of the mods, I'm sure many of us would like to see how some of that was done!Thanks guys
I am keeping them both for now.
I forgot to mention that i put in a push/pull pot as a serial/parallel switch.
I'd be especially interested in seeing the parallel/series wiring in that thing. And Orange Drops caps make for great pics just all by themselves!
C'mon dood ... GUTS GUTS GUTS GUTS!!!
Your girl is a cutey ... "Eline"? Chicks with basses ... nothing like it!
Dig the "mini-'peg" amp rig ... great practice setup!
I'm still diggin my VM 70 J ... the one with the 2-channel mods ... in fact it still has the same strings on it that it came with when I bought it back in like August.
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f8/2-channel-modification-j-many-pictures-908965/
It's probably got 200+ hours on them by now, and I have already recorded 13 tracks on soundcloud with it too. Wonderful basses. Same exact model as most people seem to be buying --- the maple body/maple neck/block inlays model. And don't let anyone tell you those inlays are "fake" either!
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f8/nbd-vm-jazz-natural-inlays-real-uber-closeup-shots-906919/
You can clearly see the edge of the block inlay, and even the glue used to hold it in ....
At this point I think I'd like to send the neck off to NTL Guitars (Jay Kolanda) and have him do a bang-up fret leveling job on it. Or, I may spring for a nice select Warmoth replacement neck (natural padouk neck/maple fretboard with black blocks) but with stainless frets then have Jay at NTL Guitars in Nashville do a shmokin' fret leveling on that neck. This bass is way worth putting a few bucks into. Especially with all the mods I've done to the body and wiring. I love the sound of this "soft maple" (whatever that is) body. But I think it's time to direct money at the neck now. Lighter tuners and some really pro fretwork would do it a lot of justice.
So there's my fourth month post-honeymoon review of my own VM-70-J. I play it at least one hour every single day, most times twice that much. Tiz a keeper indeed!
How about some gutshot pics of the mods, I'm sure many of us would like to see how some of that was done!
I'd be especially interested in seeing the parallel/series wiring in that thing. And Orange Drops caps make for great pics just all by themselves!
C'mon dood ... GUTS GUTS GUTS GUTS!!!
Your girl is a cutey ... "Eline"? Chicks with basses ... nothing like it!
Eline is a hotty yes...
i gave her a Sax last year. that looks hot aswell
I am gonna gut my bass this afternoon.
I have to rewire a couple of things because i wasn't happy with some of the wire. i didn't have an extra white one so i used a yellow one
.Im a bit anal about that kinda stuff.
do a coppertape job in the bridge PU cavity.
i was short on time the last time.
i had to use an alpha push pull volume pot for the parallel/series switch.
Not happy with that. so i am probably gonna go for the regular CTS pot and a seperate toggle switch.
advantage is that i can not switch it off by accident when slapping the high strings.
I used star grounding like they guy form www.guitarnuts.com.
Its far better then grounding your pots together because of ground loops. check it out.
you can even add an extra capacitor as an electrical shock security in case of a broken tube amp.
you can find it all at that site.
i am gonna take a lot of high-res photo's for you guys and try to explain a couple of things regarding the grounding and such.
i even have an idea to put an extra switch with 2 orange drops of different value instead of the 1. so i can switch them. but that is just an idea.
the difference in sound would be small. maybe too small.
what's your guys take on that?
Question for owner of vintage modified jazz bass '70. Are the pick the same length or is the neck pick up smaller?
Thanks
Thanks
Warwick Qc418 said:
Cney said:
Really? My measuring tape must be broken. The bridge pup is about 4 mm longer.
Eline is a hotty yes...
i gave her a Sax last year. that looks hot aswell
I am gonna gut my bass this afternoon.
I have to rewire a couple of things because i wasn't happy with some of the wire. i didn't have an extra white one so i used a yellow one
Im a bit anal about that kinda stuff.
do a coppertape job in the bridge PU cavity.
i was short on time the last time.
i had to use an alpha push pull volume pot for the parallel/series switch.
Not happy with that. so i am probably gonna go for the regular CTS pot and a seperate toggle switch.
advantage is that i can not switch it off by accident when slapping the high strings.
I used star grounding like they guy form www.guitarnuts.com.
Its far better then grounding your pots together because of ground loops. check it out.
you can even add an extra capacitor as an electrical shock security in case of a broken tube amp.
you can find it all at that site.
i am gonna take a lot of high-res photo's for you guys and try to explain a couple of things regarding the grounding and such.
i even have an idea to put an extra switch with 2 orange drops of different value instead of the 1. so i can switch them. but that is just an idea.
the difference in sound would be small. maybe too small.
what's your guys take on that?
I've done the shielding thing before, it helps a lot in preventing buzzes and such! You don't have to use copper, you can use aluminum with adhesive backing. (See pics)....
[/img]http://i1253.photobucket.com/albums/hh590/FluxJetson/Modular%20Synth/IMGP4280.jpg[/img]
As was mentioned in the PDF file at that link you posted you need to make certain that the edges of the shielding make contact with whatever cover is used to cover the cavity up. And the shielding material itself must be connected to ground in some manner. I use a brass tack pushed through the shielding and into the bass's body that has a ground wire soldered to it. Clever attention at this part helps, use a little bit of the shielding to make top-contact with the top of the tack and solder that little tab of shielding to the tack, so the tack is making mechanical contact with the shielding just from pushing it through the shielding, as well as have a soldered ~tab~ connecting the two, plus the ground wire that is pre-soldered to the tack. That wire has to be soldered to the grounding bus somewhere somehow.
In the case of a regular "Jazz" type bass that has a metal jackplate, it isn't as super critical that the plate make major super contact with the shielding material inside the cavity. But good workmanship practices demand that you always do the best job possible of everything you do.
What I'm not sure I fully understand is what advantage there is to grounding the signal wires to the "sleeve" of the output jack, and grounding the pots, plate, bridge to the very same sleeve of the output jack separately. It all makes it back to one single point of ground if you do it by connecting the pots and signal wires like this ...
/Keep in mind that there's only one place that the bass is grounded no matter which way you wire it, and that is through the "ground" (shield) lead of the guitar cable that connects your bass to the electrical grid. So as long as everything is connected to the sleeve terminal of the ouput jack it won't change anything as far as some internal "ground loop" is concerned. What DOES changes things is how properly the grounds are made. Using just the mechanical connection of the pot body to the jack plate is NOT a proper method when used alone.
Note in the picture above that the pickup grounds (aka "signal grounds") and the bridge ground are soldered to the pot body. Also soldered to that same body is a bare copper wire that chain-connects that body, to the ground terminal of that pot, to the body of the next pot, to the ground terminal of the next pot, then on to the sleeve terminals of both output jacks. Everything is DOUBLE GROUNDED that way. Ground is being made throught the fact that the pot bodies and the jack bodies are all in mechanical contact with the all-metal jackplate, AND ground is also made through the bare copper wire that connects all grounding points to the only ground connection there is .... the body (sleeve) of the output jack. The bare copper grounding bus does not have to be made with shielded wire, there is no advantage whatsoever of using shielded wire for a ground circuit in this case.
Doing the "star" ground (actually it's more of a psuedo-semi-star the way he did it) that the fella speaks of in that PDF file doesn't provide anything different. It all makes it back to the same grounding point (which is the sleeve of the output jacks). This way (pic above) I'm not relying on the mechanical contact of the pot-bodies to the jackplate to complete the ground circuit, the ground is actually soldered directly to a bare copper wire that actually makes soldered electrical contact will all grounding points all the way out to the sleeve terminals of both/either output jacks of this modded Squier J. So even if a pot or a jack gets a little loose, grounds are still 100% solid due to the interconnected ground bus that the bare copper wire provides. In fact, since the jackplate is making ground contact at FOUR places with the method I used it has four times more insurance that the jackplate itself is actually connected to a solid ground.
Most stock setups rely on the pots being tightly secured to the jackplate to maintane a good ground. If the pots or the output jack come loose the ground is compromised. This setup (pictured above) does not rely on mechanical contact of the components to the jackplate, every ground point is soldered to together with a super solid electrical connection and bussed with a bare copper wire. The only ground connection relying on mechanical contact is the jack plate itself (as a shielding agent). But that is making mechanical ground connections at FOUR locations (both pot bodies, and both output jacks sleeves). What cannot be seen in that picture is that the jacks have internal tooth locking washers between the jacks and the jackplate that really dig into the jackplate and actually cut into the plate to assure a solid connection.
I think a large part of the author's success with the anti-buzzing efforts he did had a lot to do with shielding the pickups themselves with shielding tape. Great thing to do. Just remember that all of the shielding tape in the world isn't with two craps if that tape isn't actually connected to the grounding circuit (which all of his were).
And just a word or .. well .. lots of words .. about this particular Jazz bass. I didn't bother with shielding the pickups, pickup cavities, or the control cavity because this bass is in the midst of a highly experimental project that may or may not include changing the pickups. I wanted to wait on doing the shielding on it until after I got the pickup situation figured out, then once I'm done with the bulk of the experiments I'm doing with this bass I wil move ahead with doing a proper shielding job to it (just like the one I posted in the four pictures up above).
As it stands, I don't think I'll bo going to EMG or ??? pickups at this point in my decision making process, so I'll probably end up shielding the pickups themselves and get the pickup cavities and control cavity all done up proper like. The stock pickups seem to be pretty darned good stuff Maynard!
And just to mention it, adding the "shock protection cap" is iffy at best. Your 100% absolute best no-doubt-about-it best protection against electrocution is using a wireless system on both your bass and your vocal mic. That is what breaks any ground loops. The wireless system doesn't provide any means of the bass amp's or PA's main power of getting to you since there are no wires connecting the mic or the bass to actual electrical circuits.
And I think the author of that PDF may have misused the term "ground loops" in his description (unless I misunderstood his context). Since all of the circuits inside of the bass all go back to the same ground (which is the sole and only place the entire instrument can be grounded from) in either method of grounding illustrated there is no "loop" per se. No matter whether it's wired "stock" or the way he did it (or the way I did it) you're still gonna get a shock if the PA or you bass amp aren't properly grounded simply because all of the bass's internal grounds still combine at the output sleeve. So nothing has changed in that regard. I think ... but not totally sure ... that he was refering to the use of the cap to "prevent" you from becoming part of a ground loop. But the way he wired that bass doesn't fix any internal ground loop. At least not in the sense of the way the phrase is used to describe an electrocution hazard.
I proofread this several times, I think I fixed the spelling issues ... I think anyhow.
Yea, my caliper must be broken as well because it shows the bridge pickup being longer by over .135 (roughly 3/16ths of an inch ... which is just a sniff under 4mm).
So I guess we both have broken measuring devices!
Sarcasm aside, the bridge pickup is larger than the neck pickup. Plain and simple.
if you look at it that way...
it is longer yeah.
because of the string spacing near the bridge which is longer than near the neck.
but they are just as wide though.
my bad
In regard to the ground loops,
in the stock VM70 wiring, every pot is attached to its pole piece with a wire.
your copper wire is perfect.
I use the copper tape because i was ordering the pots so might as well buy the tape.
plus that the adhesive in the tape i am using is conductive.
so no soldering is needed.
