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Double Bass Stagg EUB megathread

#501
Does anybody know the name of some braided synthetic core strings? Is this what the Spirocore strings recommended above are?

The rattle on E string is still there by the way. I've removed the fretboard tape and lowered the action again. Perhaps I'll raise it again though. Is there a downside to having the action too high?
 
#502
OK so I raised the action again and now there's hardly any rattle. Thanks for the help.

What does anyone think about these puppies
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Will they be OK with a stagg EUB as I've been previously advised that too high tension might crack the nut so I should go for 4/4 strings? These are 3/4 but I love the idea of them being Black. Also sorry for asking so many questions but the Stagg hasn't got a magnetic pickup has it? Apparently these strings will not work with magnetic pickups...

Thanks again...
 
#504
Ultra Blacks are nice and have some tension but not too much.
They should fit on the Stagg, since all Innovation strings I tried fit on my 110cm 4/4 acoustic.
The only thing is they are thick and you might not be able to wind the whole string end on the narrow tuner pegs. So you might either let the string ends stick out or cut them (but in this case better put some glue around the string before you cut or the string may unravel).

With nylon wound strings you get close to the sound of bluegrass and '30-'50ies jazz. The Ultra Blacks perhaps closer to jazz due to the higher tension (for nylon wound strings).

And Francois is right, the Stagg has bridge feet piezo pickups (using a piezo cable), so it is possible to use non-metallic strings on the Stagg.

If you don't open up the grooves in the nut, the nut will break easily, even if the nuts are just a very little bit too narrow. (The plastic nut is much too high, so filing it down is a good idea if you don't want to make a new nut. But it is a good idea to make a new nut from wood for the Stagg anyway.
 
#505
Again many thanks for the responses... Whilst the UB's look like great strings I don't feel confident about filing the nut on my own. However I still haven't completely eliminated the E string rattle in certain positions so I'm going to try and find somebody to fit them for me, file the nut and sort the rattle at the same time...

Will filing the nut have any effect on the rattle? The fingerboard looks and feels perfectly smooth however certain positions rattle more than others... It is a lot better than previously though so I guess I'll live with it and se if changing the strings helps... Thanks for the knowledge...
 
#506
I always have some rattle, depending how much I dig into the string. With the Stagg I have less dynamic range before it rattles than with my Clevinger EUB or my carved acoustic double bass.
But the fingerboard of my other instruments are intentionally not completely straight to avoid some rattling. The Stagg's fingerboard is completely straight and has an (almost unusable) truss rod. (The neck is too stiff to get the fingerboard curved inside by loosening the truss rod.)

Also a very little bit of a bump, that could not be seen by your eye can cause rattling on some notes. If it rattles not depending on the position on the fingerboard, either the bridge is too low or you put too much power (or in the wrong direction) into the string.
 
#507
I think I will put the rattle down to my relative inexperience as you are correct in saying it happens when I put too much power into the string. That's why I fancy buying some braided synthetic core strings like the UB's. However as you've advised me that the nut may need filing and I'm not capable/ comfortable doing this I fear that nice though they may be, they are not the strings for me. So my next question is can you recommend any braided nylon / synthetic core strings that will fit the Stagg without any adjustments? Also do I need 4/4 and cut them down or are some makes long and will fit with 3/4 strings? Can you or anyone recommend a similar string that I might be able to get hold of?

I'm so hooked on bass I get no sleep as work takes up a huge chunk of the day. This forum is great. Thanks for all your help...
 
#508
Any synthetic core string I know have a larger diameter than steel core strings.
Even for the Presto Balance Hybrid Medium G steel core string the slot was too narrow. But any of these strings, even my new Innovation test strings, that are rather thin for a synthetic core string, does rattle with some more input power. Maybe downtuned 4/4 Spiro Solos or 4/4 Spiro Weich will work better.

What you can do and what helps generally to avoid cracking the nut is filing the top of the nut down so that the string only lays with a third of its diameter into the nut groove. But do it slowly and don't use too much pressure or the material might break.
You might at least put larger diameter strings in there for a limited time and it would be much easier to enlarge the diameter of the grooves (but don't make them deeper!).

When it happened to me, that the nut broke, I got a piece of wood particle/synthetic material, that was a material rest of my bass buggie clone plates, and used that for a new nut. I needed several hours of work, but this one won't break ever...
 
#509
Thanks for the brilliant advice... OK so I was forgetting that I have a mate who is an engineer and a bass guitar teacher so he's going to help me... It looks like I might go for the UB's after all as they certainly look the part. Is there a big difference in synthetic core strings between cheap and expensive? I realise you get what you pay for in this life to an extent, however the actual Stagg EUB is cracking value for money IMHO.
Thanks for the two string recommendations above... I'll see if I can get hold of Spiros if you think they will be superior to the UB's in terms of playability... Did you say you had some other innovation strings to test? I'm like a kid in a sweet shop where strings are concerned so any general advice on choosing the right ones will be appreciated... Thanks...
 
#510
Solid core synthetic strings seem to have more attack, but can sound a bit more like plastic. Braided core synthetic strings are often darker, some from the beginning, some a little bit later.
But since I think you don't want to buy a set that cost more than half of your Stagg, get cheaper synthetic core strings or Spiros, since thay last a lot longer. Downtuned Superflexible Solo are a bit cheaper and should work too, just a little bit darker. FOr synthetic cores, a set of Velvet Blue might work, Innovation 140B (maybe also 140H) or downtuned Solo Obligato, Evah Pirazzi or Dominant (which might be a little bit more expensive). Velvet Compas 180 would be too expensive, I think.

I played the (probably not yet available) new Innovation Braided on the Stagg and they sound nice, but I found that I cannot dig into the string as much with the Stagg as I can to on my acoustic bass and my Clevinger EUB.

I use the Presto Balance Hybrid Medium on the Stagg before (and they will return when testing the Innovations on the Stagg is over) and they work nice too, just need a wider nut for the G.
 
#511
Hi thanks for the specific string advice... Have a look at the following please.

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Originally I wanted the Ultra Blacks but they are high tension. I've just noticed the Innovation Braided but can't find a better description of them on the Innovation website. Are these the same ones you were testing?

Can you help me by providing an explanation of what real difference tension will make to my playing? As a relative beginner am I correct in thinking medium tension is the way to go? In which case out of the 3 strings on the page above I would go for Innovation Rockabilly as they are Medium tension, braided core and also Black.
 
#512
I just got a mail, that my test strings are in beta test stage, so they are not available, but it also seems they are not the "new" braided strings. I'm a bit mixed up at the moment. But don't wait for these strings, it may take some months until they are available and they are made mostly for arco and light pizz.

But if you can get a set of braided strings from there, they will be fine. Maybe they have an old set in stock. But note that shipping outside the EU is 15 pounds!
The Ultra Blacks have some tension, but not more than most Medium tension steel strings. If you want less tension with black nylon wounds, you can get the Rockabillys.

The thicker the string and the lower the tension the less pain for the left hand.
Note that the nylon wound strings coudn't be bowed or are hard to bow. As a beginner, you should practice with a bow for better control of your intonation. Even if you intend to play pizz only with ensembles. (OK, you need to practice some pizz technique too, but for intonation the bow is important.)

For me the (old) Innovation Braided were nice to play, even on my longer scale (110cm). Personally I won't want a thick black string on the narrow fingerboard of the Stagg. I would get the Braided or downtuned Solo steel strings like Spiro 4/4 or Superflexible 4/4 for the Stagg.
 
#513
Wow how cool is that! Beta testing software is old hat now... You have to beta test bass strings to be really cool nowadays...

Thanks for all the advice - although I think I may concentrate on pizzicato for a while and leave arco alone in favour of trying to get my head around 'slap'... I'm going to go for the Rockabillys after all, as weighing everything up I think these are what I'm looking for. I may be wrong but I've made an informed decision with your help so cheers...

I tried to post this last night but the mac I was using had a crash...

Once again thanks for all the expertise...
 
#514
ImageUploadedByTalkBass1364573734.167403.jpg
Hello again... I bought the innovation Rockabilly strings and my mate helped me fit them last night... Have to say they play beautifully and create a lovely sound- only snag is the green thread on the E string is wound down too far and it is rubbing off. Shall I paint it with clear nail varnish or something to stop it getting worse? How far do you think the black nylon tape winding the string goes up inside it?
Thanks for helping me make the right string choice- they are a million percent better than the stock strings that came on it...
Cheers
 
#516
Just got a Stagg edb a couple of weeks ago. I've been have a great time with it, except for a bit of buzzing on the E from the 3rd to 6th frets. I checked with a long straight edge ruler and find there is basically no relief or scoop to the fingerboard. Is this typical on these or is mine a lemon?

I have tried adjusting the truss rod, but have yet to see any change. The truss rod seems odd on this anyway since turning it counter clockwise takes more force than going the other way which should be for tightening the rod.

Anyone have any info on fingerboard relief or truss rod adjustment on these?

Thanks in advance.
 
#517
I tried to loosen the truss rod a bit on my Stagg, but not much was possible. I think the truss rod won't do anyhing noticable to the Stagg (except making the neck a bit more robust).
The Staggs fingerboard is straight and this is the problem, I think. Not much you can do without a lot of money or luthiers capabilities. And even then you will ruin the laquer on the fingerboard.
 
#518
Raising the action to its highest possible height on the side of the E string sorted mine out... With the new strings as well mine plays like a dream right now but I was disappointed till I sorted the rattle... Also if you have a noisy audio port it can be remedied on my Stag EDB by simply changing the battery...

Hope this helps...
 
#519
Hi,

I'm new to the Stagg but not to the double bass. I'd like to use my 3/4 Helicores on it, but they're too short due to the long understringing of the Stagg, and the Helicores don't come in a 4/4 size.
Has any body modded the tailpiece to try to fix this 3/4 string issue?

Thanks.
 
#520
I was hoping to keep the action a bit lower, but that looks like it won't be doable if the truss rod doesn't have any effect. The bass isn't worth scooping out the fingerboard.

No problems with any of the jacks. It's definitely the string rattling against the fingerboard. I'm new to any kind of upright bass, but I've been doing most of my own work on electric guitars and basses for longer than I'd like to admit.

Thanks again.
 

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