Starcaster neck on a Dimension body - Possible?

[Echase409]

I want to do a custom build that involves a Squier Deluxe Dimension body and a Modern Player Starcaster neck. The Dimension bass necks are 34" scale length and the Starcaster necks are 30" scale length. Is it possible? I also see that the Dimension bass neck pocket uses a 5-bolt system, whereas the Starcaster neck is a standard 4-bolt. Would it be easier to redrill the holes in the neck pocket of the Dimension bass, or to redrill the holes in the Starcaster neck?

This is my first build, and I'm just learning everything as I go. Thanks to everyone in advance; this build may not even be possible but I can easily get all the materials so I thought I'd inquire about it.

 

[Killed_by_Death]

The Starcaster neck will not work, because the fret spacing is for a 30" scale, unless you raise the bridge to make the instrument a 30" scale.

You want to redo the holes in the neck, so that on the outside no one sees any monkey business has happened.

basically, it won't intonate w/o moving the bridge, and even if you get it intonated to the 12th fret, all the notes in between will be slightly off.

 

[Echase409]

How would I raise the bridge? Sorry if I sound stupid, like I said this is my first build haha

 

[Echase409]

The Starcaster neck will not work, because the fret spacing is for a 30" scale, unless you raise the bridge to make the instrument a 30" scale.

You want to redo the holes in the neck, so that on the outside no one sees any monkey business has happened.

basically, it won't intonate w/o moving the bridge, and even if you get it intonated to the 12th fret, all the notes in between will be slightly off.

So is there any way to make this possible?

 

[Killed_by_Death]

Install the neck & then measure 30" from the nut to where the strings will meet the saddles & install the bridge there.
The problem is going to be moving the ground wire, which I haven't thought of a solution to, and you're going to leave behind 5 unused holes where the bridge was installed at its previous location.

Also, the timbre will be quite different, since the pickup will be closer to the bridge.

 

[MonetBass]

Yep, you'll have to move the bridge approximately 4" to account for the change of scale length (be sure to measure as Killed_by_Death suggested). It is possible, but you might not like the way it sounds after all is said and done.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Big +1 on getting the parts in hand, if possible, and measuring. If the picture you posted is of the actual body you may not have enough room to move the bridge back. It will be close to the edge of the body if it fits. It's up to you if that's ok or not.

 

[sissy kathy]

I'd seriously consider a short scale J body from Warmoth rather than trying to adapt a dimension body.

 

[Echase409]

Thanks for the responses everyone. I think trying to make the Dimension bass body work is a lost cause.

I'd seriously consider a short scale J body from Warmoth rather than trying to adapt a dimension body.

Sissy Kathy, that was my first thought, but then I found the Dimension bass body in eBay for $50, which is an obvious deal. So that's why I was trying to make it work. Warmoth gets pricey really quick haha.

Now I think I'm going to use a Squier Short-Scale Jaguar P/J body, still with the Starcaster neck. Since it is a short-scale body, I'm assuming it will work with a short-scale neck? Please correct me if I'm wrong!

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Looks like I had it backwards in my earlier post. If the neck is short scale then the bridge will have to move toward the pickup route and you've got plenty of room. It will probably leave the screw holes from the old bridge exposed but that's a good excuse for a refinish.

If you still want to move ahead try to find dimensions of the heel of the Starcaster neck and the pocket in the body to make sure they're compatible.

Also, the pickup route in the body is a nonstandard shape so you'll need the Dimension pickup or the route will have to be opened up for an aftermarket pickup. Also a good excuse for a refinish.

Sorry for the confusion.

 

[bolophonic]

The Starcaster neck will not work, because the fret spacing is for a 30" scale, unless you raise the bridge to make the instrument a 30" scale.

You want to redo the holes in the neck, so that on the outside no one sees any monkey business has happened.

basically, it won't intonate w/o moving the bridge, and even if you get it intonated to the 12th fret, all the notes in between will be slightly off.

If the build is adjusted to accommodate the proper scale length, why would the intonation be "slightly off?"

 

[sissy kathy]

Thanks for the responses everyone. I think trying to make the Dimension bass body work is a lost cause.



Sissy Kathy, that was my first thought, but then I found the Dimension bass body in eBay for $50, which is an obvious deal. So that's why I was trying to make it work. Warmoth gets pricey really quick haha.

Now I think I'm going to use a Squier Short-Scale Jaguar P/J body, still with the Starcaster neck. Since it is a short-scale body, I'm assuming it will work with a short-scale neck? Please correct me if I'm wrong!

How are you at wood working? You can make the dimension body work if you know how to do some woodwork. You could rout out the pickup rout to square and then fit a patch into the hole. once that is done you could layout where the bridge and new pickup(s) go to find a place to piece in a top patch. You'd then rout a 5/16~3/8 deep rout the width of your patch running from the base up to where you decide to end the patch (like where the new pickup rout is going to be., and glue in a new top patch. Once sanded smooth your patch will be almost invisible. You would now have to rout for your new bridge and pickup. Was far as fitting the neck goes, I'd drill new holes in the body for the starcaster neck rather than new holes in the neck. Remember the holes in the body should allow the screws to pass through unimpeded; precision isn't as critical for the body as it is the neck.

If you've already given up on the dimension, disregard the above.

 

[Echase409]

How are you at wood working? You can make the dimension body work if you know how to do some woodwork. You could rout out the pickup rout to square and then fit a patch into the hole. once that is done you could layout where the bridge and new pickup(s) go to find a place to piece in a top patch. You'd then rout a 5/16~3/8 deep rout the width of your patch running from the base up to where you decide to end the patch (like where the new pickup rout is going to be., and glue in a new top patch. Once sanded smooth your patch will be almost invisible. You would now have to rout for your new bridge and pickup. Was far as fitting the neck goes, I'd drill new holes in the body for the starcaster neck rather than new holes in the neck. Remember the holes in the body should allow the screws to pass through unimpeded; precision isn't as critical for the body as it is the neck.

If you've already given up on the dimension, disregard the above.

Not good at all. I would end up butchering the body if I tried that haha. Those are all good suggestions though. If I had more experience, I would attempt it. I'm now starting to wonder if I even want a short scale bass. I think it would depend on the build quality, and how heavy it is. Oddly enough, I like when bass's have some weight to them. I don't want to sink the money into this project and then realize the short scale life isn't for me. I'll have to go play some at GC. I tried out the new P/J Mustangs Fender released, (they are short scale) but thought the build quality was pretty cheap.

 

[Echase409]

Looks like I had it backwards in my earlier post. If the neck is short scale then the bridge will have to move toward the pickup route and you've got plenty of room. It will probably leave the screw holes from the old bridge exposed but that's a good excuse for a refinish.

If you still want to move ahead try to find dimensions of the heel of the Starcaster neck and the pocket in the body to make sure they're compatible.

Also, the pickup route in the body is a nonstandard shape so you'll need the Dimension pickup or the route will have to be opened up for an aftermarket pickup. Also a good excuse for a refinish.

Sorry for the confusion.

It's all good Matt, I appreciate the input. I actually had everything planned out. I was gonna use the Modern Player Dimension's 'Triplebucker' in the bridge, (I would have to reshape the bridge pickup cavity a little bit bc the Squier Dimensions didn't use the triplebucker, only the Modern Players do.) and cut a hole for a P pickup and throw a 62 Original P in there. The Triplebucker has a 5-way knob for it's different tones, and then I was gonna put a Stellartone Bass Six in place of the P pickup's tone knob. I love the idea of a P pickup and humbucker working together, but haven't found a bass that both offers the combination AND I like it. So I decided I wanted to attempt to build my own. Hence the start of this thread