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Steinberger Spirits

I just got my thrust bearings in from Amazon and put them in.
The knobs are almost "too easy " to turn now.

Now waiting on my EMG HB pickups to come in.
Question… with two pickups should I purchase the EMG VLPF active tone control or will the std tone that comes with the kit suffice?
image.jpg
 
Added a strap hook extension device
Which is what I was talking about, and the grinder spanner type was shown a couple of posts later. I simply use flat bar, either steel or CF and use the original neck end pin hole for one of the screws, and add another, hence the one added hole.

So let's say the Dare strap solves the reach to first position problem
I'm not seeing how it does in any way when it connects to the small body in the same position, and yes, I looked at the photos.
 
Now waiting on my EMG HB pickups to come in.
Question… with two pickups should I purchase the EMG VLPF active tone control or will the std tone that comes with the kit suffice?
I would recommend you go for the EMG active electronics to get the EMG sound to the fullest. The combination of HB pickups and an EMG active control system is rather remarkable. As I've said before in this thread, it's not quite the same as the graphite basses, but it's close. In some respects, the wood neck and body mellow the EMGs. Every time I get my XZ out, I'm impressed by the tone.

Invalid Link Removed is what I used. I believe you can fit a BTC and a battery into an XT. However, I've never owned an XT. The XT compartment is smaller than the XZ's. I'll let the XT owners address this.
 
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I just got my thrust bearings in from Amazon and put them in.
The knobs are almost "too easy " to turn now.
View attachment 5050521

One of those "wish I'd thought of that" ideas, cool solution. The issue I have using Rotosound RDB 66LC double ball strings I barely have enough thread to connect to the bridge pieces much less add something like that into the mix, the strings are barely long enough as is. So maybe I need different strings?

Can a brother get a link or parts number please?
 
One of those "wish I'd thought of that" ideas, cool solution. The issue I have using Rotosound RDB 66LC double ball strings I barely have enough thread to connect to the bridge pieces much less add something like that into the mix, the strings are barely long enough as is. So maybe I need different strings?

Can a brother get a link or parts number please?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082PS8Y26?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Also, I didn't do this, but just order some M4 machine screws that are 4-5 mm longer. That will account for the length taken up by the bearings

p.s. I use rotosound also..
 
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Which is what I was talking about, and the grinder spanner type was shown a couple of posts later. I simply use flat bar, either steel or CF and use the original neck end pin hole for one of the screws, and add another, hence the one added hole.

I'm not seeing how it does in any way when it connects to the small body in the same position, and yes, I looked at the photos.
Which is what I was talking about, and the grinder spanner type was shown a couple of posts later. I simply use flat bar, either steel or CF and use the original neck end pin hole for one of the screws, and add another, hence the one added hole.

I'm not seeing how it does in any way when it connects to the small body in the same position, and yes, I looked at the photos.
I don't understand how you don't see it....
 
This has been discussed at length previously in this thread. You can read back through the entire thread, which isn't that long, relatively speaking, or use the TB thread search function.
Actually, all the previous discussion is about using an extension/hook with the paddle-body style Spirits, not the full/"normal" body XZ like @MariHo has.

With the XZ body, I'd say your best bet is to relocate the rear strap button to the rear of the body. Dingwall now includes this optional strap button location on all their basses to allow the "reach problem" to be resolved for players that feel a need for it.

You can see what I'm talking about here.

Moving the rear strap button forward will shift the bass to the right so that the reach to the first fret is reduced.

Check this thread also.

If you relocate the rear strap button like this, I would be careful to place it at least an inch or two above the centerline of the body. If you put it at the centerline or below, the bass may tend to tilt forward away from your body. Also be sure to double check that your location doesn't intersect with a pickup or bridge route.

Alternately, some have used a longer screw along with a metal tube, like you see here.
 
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Actually, all the previous discussion is about using an extension/hook with the paddle-body style Spirits, not the full/"normal" body XZ like @MariHo has.

With the XZ body, I'd say your best bet is to relocate the rear strap button to the rear of the body. Dingwall now includes this optional strap button location on all their basses to allow the "reach problem" to be resolved for players that feel a need for it.

Here's another idea for using a strap extender on a non paddle shaped type body. I've used it on three Thunderbirds and a Mockingbird and it works just as well on those as it does on my Spirit. Actually pretty unnoticable on stage too FWIW.
20170115_080917 (1).jpg 20200225_204514.jpg 20200225_204540.jpg

Had several made by a friend with a computerized plasma cutter, still have some left over...
 
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Actually, all the previous discussion is about using an extension/hook with the paddle-body style Spirits, not the full/"normal" body XZ like @MariHo has.

With the XZ body, I'd say your best bet is to relocate the rear strap button to the rear of the body. Dingwall now includes this optional strap button location on all their basses to allow the "reach problem" to be resolved for players that feel a need for it.

You can see what I'm talking about here.

Moving the rear strap button forward will shift the bass to the right so that the reach to the first fret is reduced.

Check this thread also.

If you relocate the rear strap button like this, I would be careful to place it at least an inch or two above the centerline of the body. If you put it at the centerline or below, the bass may tend to tilt forward away from your body. Also be sure to double check that your location doesn't intersect with a pickup or bridge route.

Alternately, some have used a longer screw along with a metal tube, like you see here.

Thanks, that's exactly what I was looking for.
 
I just got my thrust bearings in from Amazon and put them in.
The knobs are almost "too easy " to turn now.

Now waiting on my EMG HB pickups to come in.
Question… with two pickups should I purchase the EMG VLPF active tone control or will the std tone that comes with the kit suffice?
View attachment 5050521

Also, from the photos it looks like you have your bridge saddles set wrong. They should be slightly tilted away from the nut, and yours appear to be tilted towards the nut. That will affect the string witness point and could cause strings to die out prematurely or have intonation issues.

For the EMG preamp, I recommend the EMG BTC. It's a bass and treble control on a single concentric pot. Very nice piece of kit and compact.
 
Also, from the photos it looks like you have your bridge saddles set wrong. They should be slightly tilted away from the nut, and yours appear to be tilted towards the nut. That will affect the string witness point and could cause strings to die out prematurely or have intonation issues.

For the EMG preamp, I recommend the EMG BTC. It's a bass and treble control on a single concentric pot. Very nice piece of kit and compact.
actually, I don't have the saddles set wrong. Steinberger does. That's the position they came in.
when I get some time I'll look into it more closely
 
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Also, from the photos it looks like you have your bridge saddles set wrong. They should be slightly tilted away from the nut, and yours appear to be tilted towards the nut. That will affect the string witness point and could cause strings to die out prematurely or have intonation issues.

For the EMG preamp, I recommend the EMG BTC. It's a bass and treble control on a single concentric pot. Very nice piece of kit and compact.
Based on what?
I have three of these bridges on different basses and have been playing them for over 20 years. I tend to keep my saddles fairly flat, my B is tilted back to adjust for string height since I use a tapered B. I don't have a problem setting witness points and I certainly don't have a problem with strings going dead prematurely, since I use some pretty good quality strings (nickel hybrids). Also prefer to add the BQC control as this gives you a sweepable mid control for a 3 band.
IMG_3084.jpeg
 
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I wanted to ask if anyone with a Spirit has replaced Selects with EMG guitar passive humbuckers. I considered doing this some years ago, and was in touch with Rick Hunt at EMG. Rick recommended the H3, H3A, H4, and H4A models, with the same pickup in both neck and bridge, and also a couple of combinations. I ultimately went for HBCS actives.

I'm thinking again about doing this with another Spirit. I have contacted Rick, although I don't know if he is still working with EMG. I'll post his (or whoever's) response here.

I did want to ask in this thread if there is any user experience with these EMGs.