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Steinberger-style Pivot Plate?
- Thread starter diegom
- Start date
Cool. Will be watching for updates. Until then I continue to use the bracket I made out of an old tubular steel chair frame.
Received mine the other day, I'll save the bandwidth as it looks just like this one. Looks great, I have not mounted it yet as I have too much on my plate ATM but happy with it.
- Jan 28, 2009
- 2,929
- 4,152
- Disclosures
- Owner: Moonshine Custom Guitars
Look what I found...Not that it really matters but this reminded me that I have a box of brass bushings for Steinberger strap (pivot) plate...
Somewhere.
Moonshine
Moonshine.
Whoaa! I haven’t made any plates with the ones you sent yet. Please keep them in safe place, I may need more of them during summer.
Hello MPU (and everyone, for that matter),
I only recently joined TalkBass and just yesterday made a deal for a new Spirit XT-2DB. It arrives very soon.
Having never owned any version of a Steiney this is more than a bit of an experiment for me. I have noodled around ones that belonged to others, but I definitely found the Pivot Plate absolutely essential. Any chance of more being produced this summer?
I would buy at least one … perhaps more for possible upcoming purchases (XT-25 or perhaps eventually an original Steiney).
I only recently joined TalkBass and just yesterday made a deal for a new Spirit XT-2DB. It arrives very soon.
Having never owned any version of a Steiney this is more than a bit of an experiment for me. I have noodled around ones that belonged to others, but I definitely found the Pivot Plate absolutely essential. Any chance of more being produced this summer?
I would buy at least one … perhaps more for possible upcoming purchases (XT-25 or perhaps eventually an original Steiney).
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FYI- Original Steinbergers are not really that light considering their small size. I have one of the Brooklyn basses and it is surprisingly heavy. The pivot plate is still intact on mine plus I have the leg rest. Now Leg rests are another item in demand because most of the original owners have lost or broken theirs by now.
If there's another run of these, I'll take one. I'm afraid to gig with my XL2 because I don't want to risk breaking the pivot plate.
Thanks to a couple of very cool forum members I'm now at this point with my Hohner! BTW, Marko's idea of felt instead of the rubber washer got me thinking; adhesive chair leg mute, 1 1/4".
So now I need a brass thumb screw with a slot, and a brass insert to put in the body. Any Ideas?
Also, Steiny strap buttons are weird if I recall. Very low profile. Regular strap buttons are too tall and would scratch the body when the pivot plate is rotated.
So now I need a brass thumb screw with a slot, and a brass insert to put in the body. Any Ideas?
Also, Steiny strap buttons are weird if I recall. Very low profile. Regular strap buttons are too tall and would scratch the body when the pivot plate is rotated.
Yeah, I just got one of these from MPU and I'm mulling over how to approach the strap button issue.
I just got one from MPU as well (awesome workmanship was beyond what I expected ... and i expected pretty good quality).
I tried tapping a couple strap buttons, but had the same problem with the rear one being too tall. So I added another thick rubber washer/bushing on the body mount screw. That increased the distance between the bass body and the plate. That gave me about clearance for the button and didnt dramatically change the body position. However, as the tap was coarse, I kept experiencing the buttons loosening as i moved.
So thought I simply try a small black cap nut and a fender-type washer and leave my strap more or less permanently fixed. The height on the rear is almost as tall as the strap button, but at least it doesn't loosen up.
So far I'm liking it. Need a more padded strap since the stiffness of the attachment points make my hard leather strap dig in more.
I tried tapping a couple strap buttons, but had the same problem with the rear one being too tall. So I added another thick rubber washer/bushing on the body mount screw. That increased the distance between the bass body and the plate. That gave me about clearance for the button and didnt dramatically change the body position. However, as the tap was coarse, I kept experiencing the buttons loosening as i moved.
So thought I simply try a small black cap nut and a fender-type washer and leave my strap more or less permanently fixed. The height on the rear is almost as tall as the strap button, but at least it doesn't loosen up.
So far I'm liking it. Need a more padded strap since the stiffness of the attachment points make my hard leather strap dig in more.
I think I may have an idea. Something like this "Brass Thumb Nut"
Attachments
I keep thinking a Dunlop Flush-Mount Straplok(I apologize for the brand usage)would be the ideal pivot, zero profile and removable.
What was the full setup? I don't fully get the mental image of where the brass bushing mentioned early by Moonshine goes.
The brass bushing is inserted in the plate. I haven't made any plates with bushings yet as they need thicker plate than I've made. I need to figure out a way to make the plate thicker. The plate must also be uniform thickness on bushing place and that's the main issue at the moment. After holiday trips I'm trying to solve this issue.
