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Steinberger XP-2 Issues = Broken Jaw

I have been posting in the "What's on Your Workbench" Thread & thought I'd put up a thread in the Setup-Repair Area about an Upcoming Steinberger XP-2 that my Son Ordered on his 30th Birthday that has a couple of Issues..

1st Off the XP-2 needs a new Jaw or Claw for the bridge as they are common to have issues breaking from what I ascertain..

2nd It's missing the Leg Rest which is common because they work out well on Flying Vs or they get broken off.. Also will need the mounting hardware..

3rd Would be a Setup for the Bass & New Strings..

I have never worked on a Steinberger Bass but once had a Gibson U2 With a Steinberger KB-X Tremolo..

We have ordered a Single Jaw, Leg Rest & a couple sets of Labella Flat Wounds from Ed Roman's Guitar in Vegas.. Steinberger Parts
Bob @ ERG was invaluable resource in ascertaining the parts as there are several variants of Bass bridges on these Basses, I E-Mailed him a photo & He made sure We are getting the right one.. Ours is Variant 2 V2..

Headless USA was out of these parts BTW.. STEINBERGER - Buy Headless Parts for Your Steinberger - HeadlessUSA - Bridges, Headpieces, Legrests..
Don There is going to get Us a Steinberger Logo for the pickguard as it was changed by one from Chandler..

Also came across a seller on eBay that sells Stainless Steel Jaws for $35ea named ginobass.. Steinberger Bass Stainless Steel Original Replacement Bass Jaws Claws USA | eBay

1st I didn't know how to adjust the intonation on the XP-2 but was enlightened in the other thread that there is an adjustment screw at the front of each saddle after unlocking the saddles via a Hex Head Set Screw at the E Side of the bridge..
Not sure if it's a Hex or Flat headed? Everything else on this bass is Hex..
Have also found out that to replace the Jaw I will need to remove the Tuning Knob via it's small allen set screw that tightens on the flat spot on the threaded shaft..
There are three washers behind each tuning knob two brass & a nylon one that goes in between, I will have to mark the original intonation spot on the bridge either with a pencil mark or piece of tape to get it back to it's original position after the Jaw Change, There is also a spring behind the Jaw & bridge assembly..
Will need to use some penetrant oil on every part as they are cruddy or rusted from sweat corrosion.. I'm out of Kroil but have Rem Oil or WD-40 + Grease for the Jaws.

Will also need the two Hex Head Screws to attach the Leg Rest & after looking on Headless USA I found a picture with info that says 6-32 X 3/8" which I'm sure I can find @ Home Depot or Ace Hardware.. If the heads are too large I can spin them in a drill & turn them down with a file..

Won't have the XP-2 Bass till the middle of the week which might even be tomorrow but with Hurricane Ida pouring rain on the lower states we'll just have to wait and see
The Bass is coming from Nashville Tennessee & I live in Southern Indiana two Miles from Louisville Kentucky..

Any additional information on Setup or Repair of these early Steinberger Basses would be greatly appreciated.. There is no truss rod on these Basses & has a Graphite Neck..

Gary Sutter

Steinberger Logo For Pickguard
Steinberger Logo White.jpg

New Jaw with M3.5 x 0.6 threaded shaft & washers & spacer
Claw Jaw Bolt Washers.jpg

The Bass in Question Broken Jaw on D String, E is Questionable Too
Steinberger XP-2 Bridge II.jpg

Photo of Upcoming Steinberger XP-2
Steinberger XP-2.jpg

Photo I Found showing the bridge apart
Z Bridge Apart.jpg

Photo of some Broken Jaws & a New One
Z Broken Jaws X 3.jpg

Screws on Steinberger Insruments
Steinberger Screws.jpg
 
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The saddle block set screw that locks them in place after you’ve done a setup is a hex. It’s an easy 10min job.
Keep in mind that only La Bella and D’addario make calibrated strings for these. Anything else is designed for the Spirit lines and won’t come up to pitch.
Great basses. Mine will be 38yrs old soon and plays like it was new.
Here’s an interesting link for you.
Confirmed Steinberger Serials
 
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That is an excellent post a very good read I also have a steinberger X graphite series with the drop d lever.. I'm thinking I could have helped you with that broken saddle as I sometimes have a lot of spare parts myself keep up the good work

Thanks for the replies you all & IF I do need another claw I'll get with you Last Rebel..
Might just have to order four of the stainless ones for $154.. OUCH!!

Today Should Be NBD if UPS Comes Thru..

Nothing Yet on the Parts from Ed Roman's..
 
Great info!

(Now take a toothbrush to that bridge before doing ANYTHING else in there!)

Is the bridge magnetic ? lol
two fingers got me going.

Yes Sir it does need a good cleaning but looks worse in the pictures which show all that Dust..

My Dogs Just Alerted, UPS Man Just Came up the Walkway & Dropped off a perfectly good playing XP-2 Steinberger with a Broken Jaw & Broken Leg Rest, Action is great with the three strings, Broken Leg Rest was in the zipper pouch of the case with the screws = Oh Yeah!!
Sounds Good Too threw the Ashdown 410T Dry..
It Needs a Good cleaning & lubrication but everything is there..
Has Schaller Strap Buttons + The frets are in very good shape..
Action is great too, I wouldn't try an lower it any more than it is..
Serial # N1276 1985 By The Serial # List One of the 1st XP-2s..
It Just needs the claw & a setup 2B 100%

I had another fellow on the forum ask me what the current market value was on a XP-2
So I went to Reverb & eBay & gathered that data & divided to come up with the costs..
eBay =$2600 Reverb = $2260 Overall Average= $2430
 
I mentioned this on the other thread, but the strings may or may not be an issue. I like the GHS super light sets, .030-.090, I.ordered a set , and they didnt fit! The D&G were too long to tune, as the travel on the tuners is pretty short. If the bass came with strings that fit, measure them carefully and make sure whatever you re-string with is a perfect match, or they wont tune to pitch. Curious to hear how you make out with the Labella strings. I must have gotten lucky with the string claws, mine are still original, but i should probably buy one while I still can.
Setup is limited to intonation and string height, since the neck neither has nor needs a trussrod. Ive left mine in the case for upwards of 8 months and had it come out perfectly in tune. The body is,.near as I.can tell, rock maple with a two.part epoxy paint thats incredibly tough. One thing to check is the state of the brass inserts for neck bolts embedded in the neck heel. I had two of them pull out over the years, bit of a tricky job re-setting them straight and plumb with epoxy. The leg rest actually works quite well, setti g it right at center of gravity on your knee. Mine still has the original, fastened to the body, which i have in storage.
 
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Thanks Gilmourisgod.. I'll Listen to Pulse as I work..

The Package from Ed Romans just came & opened it five minutes ago..
I got the one claw, leg rest, screws & the two sets of LaBellas..
Will let the forum know here in a while, It will take me a while to clean off my bench + I want to let some oil soak into the hex screws first before trying to turn any of them + mark the intonation which will change due to the flat wounds & my son wants it tuned down 1/2 step which could only be good on those jaws..

He has to be at work in two hours so I might have to rush which never is good on any guitar repair.
I'll check the neck bolts & tighten them ever so gently.. I'm Pretty Handy but not a Luthier..
Guitar Repairman Maybe..

I should have asked you what you recommend for putting on the fret board as Lemon Oil I wouldn't think would be appropriate?? I have some type of Gibson Sauce? I can't remember what I put on His Kramer Duke Bass we bought for $100 off of Craig's List.. It's was 30" Short Scale..
Try Looking up Lubrication for Graphite.. You'll get a million things that are all messy stuff made of graphite.. I have some but wouldn't put that stuff on a basses fretboard..
Might Just go with damp rag of warm water to remove the dead skin & shine it up..
Or 91% Isopropyl Alcohol..
Gary
 
I had to run out & will again in a half hour & didn't want to RUSH.. "RIP Neil Peart"
Poked a hole in my empty can of Silly-Kroil & drained the very last bit into one of those little cups that comes on cough medicine & used a Insulin Syringe to pin point the hex head screws in the bridge before I left.. Super Fancy Pin Point Oiler if you will..
Will Get some photos of the Steinberger on the Operating Table..
Still unsure what sizes those hex head screws are but should have what I need..
More To Come after 11:00pm
Gary
 
Took My Time & it's 2:30am Now
I haven't got the jaw out yet
Took a few photos of progress so far
1.5mm allen wrench was what fits the tuning knobs
My handy small green metric set
Only one washer on each now & the Gs threaded shaft is different than the rest
The reason it sits farther out than the other 4
I'll go to the hardware store in the morning with my Son & get more metal washers & nylon washers too
Marked the bridge with tape & here's were I am with it now, Haven't Broke the one loose yet at the side of the bridge yet.. Took a mechanical pencil & marked all 4
Steinberger 1.JPG
Steinberger 2.JPG
Steinberger 3.JPG
1.JPG
1.JPG
2.JPG
4.JPG
5.JPG
 
Looks like it cleaned up pretty nicely! It's cool seeing one, they didnt make that many, and I never see them "in the wild" so to speak. I never put any oil on the board, nothing will soak into it, some kind of phenolic. Maybe some wax just to keep it shiny? The bridge can be easily disassembled to get some lube in the tracks the jaws slide in, but you have to take it off to get to all the screws if I remember right. Oddly, they used fine thread machine screws instead of wood screws to hold the bridge on, which seems to have worked due to the hard maple body. I wouldnt use graphite, its just a nasty black mess that gets everywhere. I think i used a tiny bit of white lithium grease last time i did it. If you have the time, the body paint buffs out nicely. I dont know what it is, but its extremely tough and hard, must be some kind of 2k epoxy paint. I think its just black color coat, never looked like it had any clearcoat on it.
 
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I didn't put anything on the fretboard, Just cleaned it with rubbing alcohol & a micro fiber towel..
The LaBella strings worked out great & came to pitch right away..
Installed the D string jaw & leg rest & I could hear him playing it as I went out a while ago..
Did tune it down 1/2 step & lubed the jaws & tuners with gun oil..
Just for anyone's future endeavors It took a 1-1/2mm & a 2mm allen wrench to change the jaw & remove the saddle.

My Son brought His Ovation in a while ago & it needs strings & a 9volt battery..
It'll be tomorrow before I can get the Martin strings & am down to my last 9volt..
Mental Note to self, Buy some good 9volt batteries. Lithium..
 
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Replaced the broken jaw, Installed new leg rest & New Flat Wound LaBella Flat wound strings + tightened all the hex head screws that has loosened up over the last four decades.
What's Crazy is every allen screw on the bridge is Metric but every one on the body is Imperial..
Made In The USA, I had read that at one point Ned Steinberger had the bridges made in Germany by Schaller.. Also Has Schaller Strap Lock Buttons..
It sounds a bit Warmer with the smooth flat wounds & tuned down 1/2 step..
Plays as good as the day it was made.. Not a dead note anywhere..
Should be good for another 30-40 years!
XP-2 Steinberger Flats.JPG
Man Cave Steinberger XP-2.JPG
Steinberger Bridge.JPG
NOTE: The threaded stud on the G string has a larger step in it's shaft, So I put a nylon spacer over it..
I never got around to opening up the pickguard to clean the control pots. they are perfect & aren't scratchy @ all..
STEINBERGER N1276 is HEALED..
That's a drop of oil by the E String Tuner on the bridge + some dog hairs..
Found some Decals on eBay either stick on or water slide.. That'll Be next..
My New Bands Name is - Angry Gary & The Piss Soaked Socks - Just Kidding but it sounds Good..
Stay Safe Out There This Labor Day Weekend
Gary
 
So hilariously shortly after my post another string jaw broke on my XP2. I chatted with my luthier to see if he could get any and his suppliers referred him to the BG Stainless people. So I figured why not and grabbed 4 (my thinking is that these ones shouldn't break like the OEM ones did on me). Got them all last night and after around 20 minutes I was up and running again.

I wanted to post this in case somebody else stumbled into this thread looking for options - the BG Stainless ones work as expected and the company was easy to deal with.

Now back to playing the berger.