Step 1 - Sourcing Wood

[buldog5151bass]

Cabinet shops, places that do hardwood floors or hardwood lumber stores. There is a great place like that in Bethel Connecticut. Normally, you have to buy an entire board (generally 8-12 feet), but they also have a huge cutoff stack, where you can find shorter pieces. They can sell it rough, plane or rip it - whatever you want.

 

[Rôckhewer]

And beware the words ... "Tonewood" or "Mastergrade".

.... that said...
I HAVE ordered, and happily payed handsomely, for something labeled "Mastergrade".
But I needed something specific... for a discerning client...
...and it was like my 10th or 12th build.

 

[buldog5151bass]

Ash is ash, maple is maple, etc., whether you are buying from a lumber yard or a specialty supplier, except that specialty suppliers charge more.

 

[TerribleTim68]

Ash is ash, maple is maple, etc., whether you are buying from a lumber yard or a specialty supplier, except that specialty suppliers charge more.

Yeah, that part makes sense, setting aside the moisture content. I guess that is my biggest fear of buying from a lumber yard per-se.

That and a typical lumber yard won't have things like wenge or a super cool highly figured whatever for the top, right?

 

[buldog5151bass]

Yeah, that part makes sense, setting aside the moisture content. I guess that is my biggest fear of buying from a lumber yard per-se.

That and a typical lumber yard won't have things like wenge or a super cool highly figured whatever for the top, right?

Likely not something highly figured, but you won't know until you call them. They might do a special order. Even better, if they are local, stop in and talk to them.

 

[TerribleTim68]

I'm thinking locally my best bet may be this Edensaw place. I've tried to contact a couple cabinet shops by email (because, you know, work hours and whatnot) and don't seem to be getting much response. But again, Edensaw is the same works hours too, so stopping by will be tough. Bit too far away to hit on a lunch break.

 

[Rôckhewer]

That and a typical lumber yard won't have things like wenge or a super cool highly figured whatever for the top, right

If buy the term " typical"....you mean like a place that sells construction lumber ...and maybe some hardwood... likely not.
The key search words are, "exotic hardwood"
That Edensaw place had a nice selection, from my quick glance.
I have no doubt you could find something figured .. (curly, quilted, etc....) and exotic veneers....maybe even some burl... at a place like that....
I find NICE quilted maple, curly purpleheart... sapele... mahogany.... bloodwood... redheart....
.... black limba ... koa.... bubinga... .etc...etc...
... locally... at least 3 places in Phx anyway.
You just gotta dig through the stacks.

 

[Huw Phillips]

One other note, To CF rod or Not to CF rod, that is the question. I have a Warmoth neck with CF rods, and its the most stable i own, how much can be attributed to the rods I cant say, but ive built two neck throughs with 2 rods either side of a DA trussrod, and they are both very stable. I figure it did no harm at worst, and probably contributes to a stiffer neck. Opinions vary, of course, but i never heard anybody posit that its a bad idea. @Bruce Johnson has done some interesting work with CF TOW fibers as a back strap of sorts you might want to check out.

I went the Bruce method and it’s rocks

 

[Nephilymbass]

Hey gang, so I've been snooping around trying to find a quality source for wood. The first issue I'm running up against is sourcing a piece long enough for a neck-thru bass build. Apparently Warmoth will not sell anything outside what is on their website, which is only bolt-on lengths. I've poked around on StewMac and LMII and I don't see anything over 36" length (and even then there was only 1 choice).

Question #1: How long of a piece am I looking for to do a neck-thru multiscale? Headstock would most likely be carved from same piece. I'm guessing we're talking something in the neighborhood of 48"? I say that because I know a couple of my current basses require cases that long, plus I'll need to allow for some extra on both ends to get carved off as things come together.

A couple people mentioned in my other thread to check with local cabinet shops. Have you guys had much success there for pieces this long?

I did find a place called "Edensaw" that has a location near me. The website looks like they cater to boat builders and high end furniture builders, not a lot about guitar building shown. Has anyone dealt with them?

Are there other sources that you can point me to that would be cheaper than the typical Ebay gougers?

Kiesel (aka what used to be Carvin) does sell neck though necks. They are a bit pricey but if you’d rather not do all the extra work it’s an option.

 

[Huw Phillips]

Rocker.com have a good selection of wood and it comes planed and sanded, Hernhardwoods is also good stuff that you can get as you want [email protected] was very helpful to me, lots of planning please, I have a photo of me chopping of a neck, that started out as a neck through and ended being a bolt on !!!

 

[AboutSweetSue]

.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

I have not tried these guys but I have heard good things.

Guitar Wood Experts

 

[nalapit13]

secretstashhardwoods on Instagram. I’ve bought lots of wood from him.

secretstashhardwoods.com

I think he shows a lot more on Instagram than on his website.

 

[shodan]

Several sources here. Official Luthiers Forum! • Index page

 

[T_Bone_TL]

...I'm going to add that step 1 or step zero should really be the plans that were mentioned in your other thread. So you'll know what you actually need to buy.

While you can have it kiln-dried to a fare-thee-well (or fashionably "roasted" these days, though that's a little different, though it's 0% for a while), as soon as you take it out of the kiln it starts acclimating to the air (which has humidity, which affects moisture content) around it. Letting it acclimate to your shop is (IMHO) more important than drying it hugely below where it will settle in your shop. Fortunately wood that is dried properly for furniture work is also dried properly for instrument work - but you will occasionally get a pretzel anyway, as trees are unique individuals.

This is one reason to get close to the final shape in steps, rather than grab a rough board and make it exact finish dimensions - if you rough it down NEAR the final shape you have room to correct if the board moves a little. If the board moves a lot, grab another board.

Edit to add - read Bruce's post about making necks (and wood handling for that) here. I'm sure he's said other things about his process, but this is a pretty concise yet detailed read (you can also read the whole thread, or almost any of Bruce's posts, to learn even more.)

 

[TerribleTim68]

Yeah, I'm definitely gonna make a full size drawing first. I need to figure out some dimensions. Luckily I work in the Architecture industry and have a large plotter just feet from my desk and plenty of 500' rolls of 24", 30" and 36" wide paper!

 

[james condino]

curlymaplewood.com

 

[Freekmagnet]

I’m with @Rôckhewer - just from a quick glance at their site, that Edenwood joint looks like they have a pretty darn good selection of your basic bass-building woods. I’d just roll on over there and check ‘em out at least. You’ll have a blast just walking in there and hand-picking your wood.

I wouldn’t worry too much about rocking some crazy fancy figured expensive exotic woods your first time out. I’d look for something that’s inexpensive and easy to machine. There’s a lot of problem-solving that goes into your first build, and just getting it done will be awesome enough. Besides, you’ll be planning build #2 before you’re halfway through #1.

 

[joseplluissans]

I've gotten lots of wood from here:
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EDIT: European supplier

 

[Gilmourisgod]

@TerribleTim68
Mike and Ike! Im a construction project manager for a small Architectural firm, i drew my basses up in excruciating detail in Autocad and printed them out on our 48" plotter , a wonderful device.