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Stingray aftermarket 2 band pre

#601
BassLife77 said:
when I get a lot of noise in a project either I soldered something incorrectly or a solder joint is bad. I would check each solder point for continuity with the next. that usually solves the problem for me. Are you getting DC through the output jack? It should be a very low millivolt reading. If you're getting 9 volts through the jack it might be a ground problem
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well i currently am not getting the noise i was before. i disconnected everything and re-did it (not the board, but the connections to the pots/jack). im not seeing where i did anything different but something was obviously wrong.

this is my first time doing anything like this so i have to admit, i dont really know how to test stuff:hiding:
 
#602
narud said:
well i currently am not getting the noise i was before. i disconnected everything and re-did it (not the board, but the connections to the pots/jack). im not seeing where i did anything different but something was obviously wrong.

this is my first time doing anything like this so i have to admit, i dont really know how to test stuff:hiding:
Click to expand...

You should get a multimeter. It's an essential tool for installing preamps and troubleshooting. A magnifying glass is also essential especially for finding bad and bridged solder joints. Both are really cheap at Harbor Freight tools
 
#606
so i thought id give my thoughts now that i have this working. i put it on a jazz plate and slapped it in my bass which is a late 70's jazz body and a mij neck. so marcus miller style basically. once i got it working i noticed that the output was definitely lower than passive 74 jazz i was comparing it to. i swapped the 100k resistor to the 220k and it now has the output id expect from an active bass.

tonewise, its really nice. the bass frequency boosts in a way that i really like. something that ive only really gotten out of the nordstrand,coppolo and f bass preamps. the sad/aguilar type pres turn to mud real fast to my ear. especially through the front of house. the highs arent overly plinky or glassy either which is nice. i will want to swap the treble pot though. im using a standard 100k audio pot because thats all i had readily available and the boost is all happening at the last quarter turn or so.

overall though im very pleased with this pre and what it does in a fender. i look forward to building some more. thanks again derek and everyone else!:bassist:
 
#607
narud said:
once i got it working i noticed that the output was definitely lower than passive 74 jazz i was comparing it to. i swapped the 100k resistor to the 220k and it now has the output id expect from a passive bass.
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Unless I missed something, that doesn't seem right. I have my bass wired with an active/passive switch, and it's significantly louder in active mode.
 
#609
domdec314 said:
Unless I missed something, that doesn't seem right. I have my bass wired with an active/passive switch, and it's significantly louder in active mode.
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This could be because of the 100K treble pot he's using. The treble control is part of a feedback loop. That loop also sets the gain, as you see with the 100k/220k resistor. The 100k used for a treble control in parallel with the gain setting resistor was probably giving him less gain.

I like the 220K gain resistor better. I felt it gave the tone a little more life.
 
#612
so i want to get the right pot in my bass since only having the last half of the turn doing anything on the treble control is lame. im going to break down and order some pots. im on the mouser website and looking at this
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its a reverse audio pot but under taper in the specs it says linear. what am i missing? i want to make sure i order the right stuff!

the pc mount pot has audio listed under taper
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#617
narud said:
so these are cool to order then for stringray/jazz bass plate installation?
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Click to expand...

I used that Alpha reverse audio pot on the first two preamps I made. But they are mini pots and didn't match the full size pots I was using for the other pots, so I just use a linear taper pot for the treble now, and that works fine.

You can see that small pot here:

SGD_MM_pre4.jpg


I used this one. It has a solid shaft.

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#618
SGD Lutherie said:
I used that Alpha reverse audio pot on the first two preamps I made. But they are mini pots and didn't match the full size pots I was using for the other pots, so I just use a linear taper pot for the treble now, and that works fine.

You can see that small pot here:

SGD_MM_pre4.jpg


I used this one. It has a solid shaft.

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Click to expand...
if im reading the description correctly, the only difference in the alpha you bought was that it was pc mount rather than having solder lugs?

im not a stickler for the full size pots. i was going to replace the full size cts pots im using now with some mini alphas as well to get some more room in the cavity. id rather not have it too crammed. it looks like the 250k minis with a solid shaft are on order though. i guess ill check somewhere else. i also want to pickup a a 250k stacked volume control to wire up another one without having to use a side mount jack.
 
#619
narud said:
if im reading the description correctly, the only difference in the alpha you bought was that it was pc mount rather than having solder lugs?
Click to expand...

The shaft is shorter and solid. The other one, which I have here in my parts box, has a longer than usual shaft and it's knurled.

Otherwise they are the same.

I don't mind small pots either, but I'm now using Bourns pots (those are Alpha in that photo).
 

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