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Strap button loose.

The strap button on my Fender Player P bass is loose.

Is there an easy and safe way to fix it or should I bring it to my local guitar shop?
IMG_20210808_130736 (2).jpg
 
The strap button on my Fender Player P bass is loose.

Is there an easy and safe way to fix it or should I bring it to my local guitar shop?View attachment 4361726
Lots of ways to do this. Toothpicks and wood glue is the easiest way.
A little glue in hole and toothpick(s), break off toothpicks, wipe off excess glue.
Screw strap button back on.
 
Lots of ways to do this. Toothpicks and wood glue is the easiest way.
A little glue in hole and toothpick(s), break off toothpicks, wipe off excess glue.
Screw strap button back on.

Thank you for the quick reply:thumbsup: but I didn't fully get it :wideyed:
What do you use the toothpicks for, to fill the gap in?

I am reluctant to use glue to be honest. Cannot this button be fixed drilled anymore?
 
Thank you for the quick reply:thumbsup: but I didn't fully get it :wideyed:
What do you use the toothpicks for, to fill the gap in?

I am reluctant to use glue to be honest. Cannot this button be fixed drilled anymore?
Yes, the toothpicks go right into the hole from the original button location. They tighten up the hole to accept new threads from the button screw. Wood glue is the best way. Some people just use toothpicks alone…but really a little dab of wood glue is best. The wood glue is not permanent and the button can be removed anytime. No need to re-drill. Use a good screwdriver. Take your time.
 
Thank you for the quick reply:thumbsup: but I didn't fully get it :wideyed:
What do you use the toothpicks for, to fill the gap in?

I am reluctant to use glue to be honest. Cannot this button be fixed drilled anymore?
Toothpicks work great. You almost have to use glue. Wood glue works good and won’t hurt anything. Just wipe off the excess before it dries.

In the past I’ve used a wooden dowel. Drilled the hole to the size of the wooden dowel. Make sure it’s smaller than the size of the strap button. Put some wood glue on the dowel. The only issue with the dowel is that they usually have the wood grain going in the wrong direction which can make the screw loose later, but I’ve got one that’s been holding for over ten years.

you can use a slightly longer screw but be very careful not to crack the body of your bass. If there’s ever any doubt drill a pilot hole and go extremely slow so you can hear the stress on the wood. I would use a screwdriver. If you can find the correct size wood plug that would be best. A wood shop might drill you one out from scrap wood for cheap.

Honestly though, toothpicks and wood glue are easier and will probably hold well enough with the existing hole and screw. The benefit to that is you aren’t risking harming the body.
 
Wood glue and toothpicks work, but the essential problem is that the wood screws provided with most strap pins are just to too short. I always replace them with at least a 2" stainless screw. The difference in finish is barely noticeable, but if it bugs you, you can get chrome screws from McMaster Carr.
 
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Toothpicks work great. You almost have to use glue. Wood glue works good and won’t hurt anything. Just wipe off the excess before it dries.

In the past I’ve used a wooden dowel. Drilled the hole to the size of the wooden dowel. Make sure it’s smaller than the size of the strap button. Put some wood glue on the dowel. The only issue with the dowel is that they usually have the wood grain going in the wrong direction which can make the screw loose later, but I’ve got one that’s been holding for over ten years.

you can use a slightly longer screw but be very careful not to crack the body of your bass. If there’s ever any doubt drill a pilot hole and go extremely slow so you can hear the stress on the wood. I would use a screwdriver. If you can find the correct size wood plug that would be best. A wood shop might drill you one out from scrap wood for cheap.

Honestly though, toothpicks and wood glue are easier and will probably hold well enough with the existing hole and screw. The benefit to that is you aren’t risking harming the body.
Going to reiterate that although it worked great for me I would avoid the longer screw and drill altogether. It’s just not worth the risk.
 
Toothpicks work great. You almost have to use glue. Wood glue works good and won’t hurt anything. Just wipe off the excess before it dries.

In the past I’ve used a wooden dowel. Drilled the hole to the size of the wooden dowel. Make sure it’s smaller than the size of the strap button. Put some wood glue on the dowel. The only issue with the dowel is that they usually have the wood grain going in the wrong direction which can make the screw loose later, but I’ve got one that’s been holding for over ten years.

you can use a slightly longer screw but be very careful not to crack the body of your bass. If there’s ever any doubt drill a pilot hole and go extremely slow so you can hear the stress on the wood. I would use a screwdriver. If you can find the correct size wood plug that would be best. A wood shop might drill you one out from scrap wood for cheap.

Honestly though, toothpicks and wood glue are easier and will probably hold well enough with the existing hole and screw. The benefit to that is you aren’t risking harming the body.

I’ve done toothpicks or dowels and wood glue a number of times, some of those 15 or 10 years ago and strap buttons are still tight.

I would scrutinize the toothpick quality. :) sounds silly but some of these are real hard wood, some softer. A small wooden dowel made of hardwood is cheap for something that could save real damage to your bass.
 
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Unless you are Cosmically Inept, I dont see how you can damage a bass by increasing the depth of a screw hole into a body horn or heel by 1/2". The bit is following an existing hole, not angling off willy-nillly through the body. Even if you over drill the depth, its a hole aligned with the long dimension of the body, not the short front to back dimension. The screw doesnt care how deep the hole is, it will only bite along its threaded length. IME the toothpick glue repair is a temporary fix at best. You havent increased the wood/screw surface area at all, and it will eventually loosen, as all wood screws do, as the wood dries and shrinks.
 
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I've never had a toothpick / glue repair fail. Agreed, we have to have a solid "footing" or optimized contact area for the entire length of the screw hole whether it be extended or not. Couple of tips:

*Use a quality flat toothpick as it is easier to jam a bunch into position. Attempting to use a plastic "sword" which came with your cocktail is a sign of brain-rot.

*Slather the 'picks with a decent wood glue (...I use TiteBond) prior to insertion. Trim flush(ly).

*Re-introduce the screw while the glue is wet...this is paramount.

If we've played our cards correctly, the toothpicks will deform and fill the thread voids which caused the strip-out in the first place. The introduction of the screw acts as an internal clamp which promotes the bond.

Riis
 
Wood glue and toothpicks work, but the essential problem is that the wood screws provided with most strap pins are just to too short. I always replace them with at least a 2" stainless screw. The difference in finish is barely noticeable, but if it bugs you, you can get chrome screws from McMaster Carr.
The problem with a screw that's 1/2" longer is that there's really only that last half-inch that's holding. If the screw was stripped before, it still is but for that last 1/2". If you choose to use a longer screw for insurance, it's best to use either toothpicks or a dowel and glue as well. Drill a pilot hole for the last 1/2" rather than forcing the screw. Screw the strap button on while the glue is still wet, then let it dry.
 
As Turnaround as states above, if you use a longer screw without doing something to fill the hole, only the last bit is holding and is much more likely to fail. The toothpick trick is tried and true and makes the entire length hold. Filling with a dowel will work but not really better and unless done carefully has the potential to cause real damage to the bass.
 
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As Turnaround as states above, if you use a longer screw without doing something to fill the hole, only the last bit is holding and is much more likely to fail. The toothpick trick is tried and true and makes the entire length hold. Filling with a dowel will work but not really better and unless done carefully has the potential to cause real damage to the bass.
To be clear, when I am talking dowels, I mean tiny ones, barely enlarging to hole. But mainly just a question for me of using good wood and being able to have a tight fit. Perhaps paranoia….the chemical reaction of polyvinyl acetate glue is pretty amazing.
 
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If toothpicks and wood glue don't work and you decide to look for a more robust, permanent fix, check out Billy Sheehan's ultimate solution for dealing with straps and buttons: