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Strap button repair
- Thread starter Masbutch
- Start date
Back when I worked in the snow ski industry when we had a screw that stripped out the ski hole, we would lightly spray the screw threads with silicone spray and almost fill the hole in the ski with epoxy resin and hardener thoroughly mixed. Then we would put the binding on and screw it on. I would think it will be covered by the strap button, so no one would be the wiser. Or you could go the tooth pick route with elmers glue.
I've used the toothpick solution, and it works. But I prefer to refill the hole with plastic wood, and then reinsert the screw. It's a more permanent, and in my opinion, safer, and more solid fix.
Bluebird28's solution is a good solid fix as well. Go forth and repair, my son.
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Bluebird28's solution is a good solid fix as well. Go forth and repair, my son.
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this comes up all the time, definitely search on it!
no wood filler, no silicone, none of that is necessary or even all that reliable.
wood glue, slathered on wood slivers or toothpicks stuffed in the hole, screw in while the glue is wet, done.
wood filler is weak, superglue and epoxy damage finish, drilling and gluing in hardware store end-grain dowels is weak, using cross-grain plugs is fine but a big project, and on and on.
"titebond/toothpicks/screw in wet" is faster to do than to even write about, and also the safest and strongest way.
Absolutely this. I did this a few months ago to my Brice; the back strap button was almost completely stripped out. Fix is holding strong.
I waited for the glue to dry, though. What is the benefit of screwing in the strap button while the glue is wet?
i'm afraid you sabotaged yourself there 
the whole idea is that cranking in the screw while the glue is wet creates the "clamping" pressure that wood glue needs to dry strong; it also allows the wood/glue composite to dry "cast" into the shape of the screw threads, further strengthening the job.
the whole idea is that cranking in the screw while the glue is wet creates the "clamping" pressure that wood glue needs to dry strong; it also allows the wood/glue composite to dry "cast" into the shape of the screw threads, further strengthening the job.
From a woodworking site. REAL woodworkers use pics and glue. Plastic wood is not for anything but filling dings. Link Removed
well yeah, which is why you shouldn't bother.
actually, since it's essentially a thin layer of smooth, uncompressed wood slid into a smooth hole surrounding the screw, it likely is weaker.
(OK, a 3/4" wide, 3" long slug of end-grain hard oak or maple in there would be plenty strong, but man, why all the butchery? "wet toothpicks/screw cranked in" is strong enough to shear the screw head off if done right, so why bother with anything else?)
Sure, sure. I was just being a smarty-pants.
If it was really butchered and coned-out it might make sense to drill and use an oversized, fluted dowel.
If it was really butchered and coned-out it might make sense to drill and use an oversized, fluted dowel.
I use wooden golf tees and wood glue. Cut the remaining part if the tee off and let glue dry. The drill a hole with a bit smaller then the screw and screw the strap button back on
yeah, but even they fall into the "allow the glue to dry first" trap, short-circuiting their own efforts.Link Removed
In case you missed it the first time.
