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string "core" slippage, tuning issues after cutting strings

i have heard some talk about the "core" of a roundwound string slipping if it is not cut properly, i have experienced that sometimes the harmonics or notes are wobbly and a reinstall or a new set of strings installed 'properly' fixes it. i have learned one must *crimp* a string before cutting it but can someone explain how this all works? so i can prevent it even better?

now i use a headless bass where i need to cut the string after the headpiece (it uses regular strings, i like jim dunlop superbrights.. 40-120) it is the G and D string i face this issue with sometime and earlier on another bass it was with the B and E string that the harmonics would not be steady with their pitches and even on the tuner diplay. any clue?
 
I've cheated and dabbed the string side of the cut point with a drop of superglue before cutting, probably not the right way, but it worked.
 
i have heard some talk about the "core" of a roundwound string slipping if it is not cut properly, i have experienced that sometimes the harmonics or notes are wobbly and a reinstall or a new set of strings installed 'properly' fixes it. i have learned one must *crimp* a string before cutting it but can someone explain how this all works? so i can prevent it even better?

now i use a headless bass where i need to cut the string after the headpiece (it uses regular strings, i like jim dunlop superbrights.. 40-120) it is the G and D string i face this issue with sometime and earlier on another bass it was with the B and E string that the harmonics would not be steady with their pitches and even on the tuner diplay. any clue?

Treb got it right but you may also be describing an addt'l compromise when you mentioned harmonics / tuning. Owning both conventional & headless basses, it is easier to twist a string when winding on a string post. Most headless basses have a straight "draw" thanks to the micrometer-style tuning bodies. When stringing a conventional headstock / tuner array, be sure to allow the ballend to spin freely until it engages the bridge. Also, don't forget to set your witness points!

Riis
 
Treb got it right but you may also be describing an addt'l compromise when you mentioned harmonics / tuning. Owning both conventional & headless basses, it is easier to twist a string when winding on a string post. Most headless basses have a straight "draw" thanks to the micrometer-style tuning bodies. When stringing a conventional headstock / tuner array, be sure to allow the ballend to spin freely until it engages the bridge. Also, don't forget to set your witness points!

Riis

what is a "witness" point? my bass has an ETS headless bridge though if that matters