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String overlap on tuning post -- is this okay?

The 4 I can see are done per the EB method. The G string is impossible to tell from your pics.

I'm not seeing that. They didn't double back over the middle groove, they just put the string through the hole in the tuning post and wound sloppily.

Agreed, re paying a shop for setup/intonation and getting this back. That's why I want to bring the bass back but honestly I don't trust them. I'd rather deal with the strings myself and adjust the truss rod if I need to. Should be easy enough on a EBMM because the wheel at the heel of the neck.

If that were me, I'd detune each string one at a time until I had enough slack, then push the winds down to where they were laying nice and neat one wrap next to the next wrap and they come off the bottom of the post. No gaps,, and certainly no overlaps.

You have to remember, tuning is tension, the ability of the strings keys, bridge, the whole bass to maintain a given pounds/feet (or newton/meters) steadily. So you avoid everything that would allow the strings to slip or anything to move once tuned.

You want this . . .
View attachment 7061858

. . . and NEVER this:

View attachment 7061860

That's a good idea, instead of redoing the entire wind at least getting each wrap flat to its neighbors with a slight detune.
 
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I'm not seeing that. They didn't double back over the middle groove, they just put the string through the hole in the tuning post and wound sloppily.

Agreed, re paying a shop for setup/intonation and getting this back. That's why I want to bring the bass back but honestly I don't trust t
True, They did do an overlap which will help prevent slipping but no double back.
 
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I do the "loop thru once before going around" method on the G string of all the basses I put flats on. EBMM, Tis, Labellas, all kinds of flats. I've done that for years. Just the G string (I don't have a high C string on any bass, but I'd probably do that too on that low gauge string).
If nothing it gives me just a bit more piece of mind. I have never had a flat wound string have issues staying in tune (other than the natural stretching that occurs over time).
This is just for flats, not for rounds.
 
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I had to do the Ernie Ball method on the G string of my Rick 4003 because it was slipping. I also did the D that way to be safe. The A & E usually don't need it. I was careful to be neat & tight with the Wraps. I also left some extra length in case I was to try them on another bass.
IMG_3573.jpeg
 
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Regardless of the quality of the tuning keys (and everything else, nut, bridge, etc.) I'll offer this example that occurred over and over when I worked the counter in music stores.

Sell someone a new guitar or bass, and often they'd be back in a few weeks or months with the same complaint:

'This dang guitar you sold me won't stay in tune!'

And 99% of the time, the same problem: I'd open the case, and it looked like spaghetti in the keys, all kinds of wrongly installed strings. Overlapping wraps. One turn around the post. Way too many turns around the post. And on and on.

So I'd buy 'em a set of new strings, I'd teach them how to do it right, and I'd never see these happy-once-more customers again with tuning problems.
 
The ErnieBall method is sound. The extra wind back through the post is to minimize string slippage since they have wider string posts than some (but not all) other manufactures. I myself have never had an issue stringing my Stingray the “standard” way vs their recommended way, but I get it.
I think this only applies to their Cobalt flats. I’ve installed those several times the “normal” way, not per package instructions, and have had no issues. For most of my basses I use EB Cobalt ROUNDS and they don’t include the complicated instructions nor do the regular Slinky models.
 
I don't know what people are going on about re the ernie ball 'overlap'. Just look inside the tuner, there's no wrap back through the post. To me it looks like whoever strung it did the guitar over/under method.

Redoing it correctly is what I would do. The strings will be fine.
 
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I think this only applies to their Cobalt flats. I’ve installed those several times the “normal” way, not per package instructions, and have had no issues. For most of my basses I use EB Cobalt ROUNDS and they don’t include the complicated instructions nor do the regular Slinky models.
You are correct. I’ve had the same experience with Slinky round and cobalt flats.
 
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If that were me, I'd detune each string one at a time until I had enough slack, then push the winds down to where they were laying nice and neat one wrap next to the next wrap and they come off the bottom of the post. No gaps,, and certainly no overlaps.

You have to remember, tuning is tension, the ability of the strings keys, bridge, the whole bass to maintain a given pounds/feet (or newton/meters) steadily. So you avoid everything that would allow the strings to slip or anything to move once tuned.

You want this . . .
View attachment 7061858

. . . and NEVER this:

View attachment 7061860

Ahhh, this is better.

1000009582.jpg



1000009583.jpg
 

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