Eh, it's not *that* bad, IMO. Most of us have done an uglier job plenty of times without doing any damage to our instruments.
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The 4 I can see are done per the EB method. The G string is impossible to tell from your pics.
If that were me, I'd detune each string one at a time until I had enough slack, then push the winds down to where they were laying nice and neat one wrap next to the next wrap and they come off the bottom of the post. No gaps,, and certainly no overlaps.
You have to remember, tuning is tension, the ability of the strings keys, bridge, the whole bass to maintain a given pounds/feet (or newton/meters) steadily. So you avoid everything that would allow the strings to slip or anything to move once tuned.
You want this . . .
View attachment 7061858
. . . and NEVER this:
View attachment 7061860
True, They did do an overlap which will help prevent slipping but no double back.I'm not seeing that. They didn't double back over the middle groove, they just put the string through the hole in the tuning post and wound sloppily.
Agreed, re paying a shop for setup/intonation and getting this back. That's why I want to bring the bass back but honestly I don't trust t
I think this only applies to their Cobalt flats. I’ve installed those several times the “normal” way, not per package instructions, and have had no issues. For most of my basses I use EB Cobalt ROUNDS and they don’t include the complicated instructions nor do the regular Slinky models.The ErnieBall method is sound. The extra wind back through the post is to minimize string slippage since they have wider string posts than some (but not all) other manufactures. I myself have never had an issue stringing my Stingray the “standard” way vs their recommended way, but I get it.
You are correct. I’ve had the same experience with Slinky round and cobalt flats.I think this only applies to their Cobalt flats. I’ve installed those several times the “normal” way, not per package instructions, and have had no issues. For most of my basses I use EB Cobalt ROUNDS and they don’t include the complicated instructions nor do the regular Slinky models.
If that were me, I'd detune each string one at a time until I had enough slack, then push the winds down to where they were laying nice and neat one wrap next to the next wrap and they come off the bottom of the post. No gaps,, and certainly no overlaps.
You have to remember, tuning is tension, the ability of the strings keys, bridge, the whole bass to maintain a given pounds/feet (or newton/meters) steadily. So you avoid everything that would allow the strings to slip or anything to move once tuned.
You want this . . .
View attachment 7061858
. . . and NEVER this:
View attachment 7061860
Any chance we can see the rest of the bass?
Mmmmmmmm natural body with maple fretboard????? Exquisite.
Mmmmmmmm natural body with maple fretboard????? Exquisite.
Nice. I’ve got a 2000 SR5 with a great feeling neck tooIt's a nice one!! Been really enjoy it. The neck is phenomenal.
THAT's how ya do it!