String tension question - flats

[tb-player]

I have a question about string tension. I did a search and nothing exactly answered my question. Plus, I prefer a dialogue rather than a lonely research session, so...

How exactly does lower tension affect the relief on a bass neck? One of my older basses has really great action but I'm curious how the neck would respond to lower tension string.

Currently it has Labella 760FS strings. They're great. I've been looking at Labella LTFs. Would switching to those automatically take some relief out of the neck? Or is that not how tension works?

Obviously, a simple truss rod adjustment can help. But I don't want to go cranking on that truss rod too much, since it's already in a pretty good spot. Plus, it's a bit of an older basses. I feel like those necks don't want to move too much after having been where they are for a good long while.

Just curious if a low-tension string could be a more elegant solution for getting just a little bit more relief out of the neck.

Thoughts?

 

[johnh89]

Simply put , a lower tension set of strings may take some relief out of the neck . That is all dependent on the actual bass and construction of the neck . Ibanez and Jazz basses have thinner necks as a rule and will respond more to differing string tension . My fretless P bass bitsa has a neck that would take bridge cables without altering the relief .
Don't be frightened of the truss rod . It is there for exactly the purpose of changing the relief of the neck . There are plenty of threads on here about how to adjust it . No more than a quarter of a turn at a time .
My Yamaha BB734 wears Labella Jamerson flats and need a quarter turn to set the relief and has never moved in over a year .

 

[tb-player]

Simply put , a lower tension set of strings may take some relief out of the neck . That is all dependent on the actual bass and construction of the neck . Ibanez and Jazz basses have thinner necks as a rule and will respond more to differing string tension . My fretless P bass bitsa has a neck that would take bridge cables without altering the relief .
Don't be frightened of the truss rod . It is there for exactly the purpose of changing the relief of the neck . There are plenty of threads on here about how to adjust it . No more than a quarter of a turn at a time .
My Yamaha BB734 wears Labella Jamerson flats and need a quarter turn to set the relief and has never moved in over a year .

I’ve adjusted the truss rod. It still has plenty of room. I was just curious if LTFs would make a difference.

 

[Yahboy]

DTF 760FS are notable huge different in string stiffness compare to LTF4A.

Due to high tension, 760FS possible setup in pretty low action without fret buzz if fret wires are well leveling.
If you loaded the LTF4A with same setup, it could create fret buzz due to more string vibrate compare to bridge cable 760FS.

 

[johnh89]

I’ve adjusted the truss rod. It still has plenty of room. I was just curious if LTFs would make a difference.

There is only one way to find out . What bass is this on ?

 

[J-Bass RMR]

You won't know until you try them.
Assuming lower (pull) tension strings can be a little more "flexible" (not always), I tend to prefer a bit more relief with them. So even if the neck relief doesn't move that much, it still might be right for those particular stings.
It's going to come down to your personal preference.

You are correct though- especially on a vintage bass, you don't want to start turning the truss rod without giving the neck some "help".

1st 3 minutes or so...

 

[tb-player]

There is only one way to find out . What bass is this on ?

I have a couple of basses I’ve been considering going to a lower tension string. I own a ‘69 precision that has 760FS strings. I don’t know a ton about the different brands of flats so it’s more just a query on the difference between 760FS and LTF… the relationship between string tension, the truss rod and how each plays a role in neck relief. TBH, I don’t see myself making any changes to that bass. It’s pretty great as is. I’m just curious.

The other bass I’m thinking about is not mine. A friend just inherited a ‘69 jazz bass that is in great shape but has been in the case since 1991. He’s asked for my help with basic setup, which I am comfortable doing. That neck has been sitting in its position for years. The action is okay, but I’d like to help him get a little more out of it by finding the most non-intrusive options, especially since it doesn’t belong to me. We may put rounds on that one.

Once again, nothing major in either case. Just trying to obtain a better understanding of how string tension affects the neck of a bass.

 

[moreblues]

If you go from 760FS to LTF'S you probably...depending on what the relief is now, would have to loosen the truss rod
( turn it counter-clockwise ) because the LTF'S have much less tension then the 760FS....less pulling power on the neck...so they would give you LESS relief.
I would put them on, do one string at a time then wait a few days or a week to let the neck settle before loosening the truss rod nut.

 

[Zooberwerx]

Yes, I started using the LTF's for just this reason. In each application, I had to relax the TR a bit.

Riis

 

[tb-player]

Yes, I started using the LTF's for just this reason. In each application, I had to relax the TR a bit.

Riis

Okay. That’s what I figured. Pretty logical. I just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing something. Thx!

 

[jj.833]

When I change strings on my Pedulla, I need to adjust the truss rod. Pedulla neck is very thin. When I change strings on my P (lately Rotos SM66N -> TI jazz flats), nothing happens. Perhaps the fenderish necks are stronger than neccessary.
You can lose nothing when adjusting the truss rod. You can gain some knowledge.

 

[lunarpollen]

It depends on whether the strings actually have less total tension when tuned up to pitch, or if they are just called "low tension" because their particular construction and composition makes them feel less stiff to the fingers when pressing on them or bending notes... I don't know the particulars regarding the strings in question...

 

[Grinderman]

Less string tension or load in terms of total pounds = turn the truss rod nut counterclockwise to loosen the truss rod and reduce whatever back bow in the neck.

 

[johnh89]

I have a couple of basses I’ve been considering going to a lower tension string. I own a ‘69 precision that has 760FS strings. I don’t know a ton about the different brands of flats so it’s more just a query on the difference between 760FS and LTF… the relationship between string tension, the truss rod and how each plays a role in neck relief. TBH, I don’t see myself making any changes to that bass. It’s pretty great as is. I’m just curious.

The other bass I’m thinking about is not mine. A friend just inherited a ‘69 jazz bass that is in great shape but has been in the case since 1991. He’s asked for my help with basic setup, which I am comfortable doing. That neck has been sitting in its position for years. The action is okay, but I’d like to help him get a little more out of it by finding the most non-intrusive options, especially since it doesn’t belong to me. We may put rounds on that one.

Once again, nothing major in either case. Just trying to obtain a better understanding of how string tension affects the neck of a bass.

String tension will try and bend the neck to end up with more relief . Truss rod counteracts that force . So it is not going to make a lot of difference whether you change the strings or tweak the truss rod . The neck will bend the same . I can't comment on the particular strings you have chosen , others will give you more informed advice , as most of my basses have Roto 88 tapewounds and one has Labella Jamersons .

 

[sergeykuimov]

Когда я надел струны TomastiK флэт на свой Fender Jazz, он почти сразу выгнулся назад. Я выкрутил якорь почти до такого состояния, что он стал крутиться абсолютно свободно. Нижнюю гайку пришлось поднять. затем постепенно, через пару недель, гриф принял нормальную кривую. Все было не просто

 

[RGerhart]

In my experience, each bass is different. My old Lakland 55-02 I had for years was the most stable neck I've ever dealt with. I took it to North Dakota, California, Arizona, Utah, and never had to adjust the truss rod. Even after changing string types/brands/gauges, it just held strong. It was weird.

On the other hand, my other basses seem to need some truss rod tweaking after changing strings, and through each season. Go figure.

 

[Thebiggestjerk]

I have a question about string tension. I did a search and nothing exactly answered my question. Plus, I prefer a dialogue rather than a lonely research session, so...

How exactly does lower tension affect the relief on a bass neck? One of my older basses has really great action but I'm curious how the neck would respond to lower tension string.

Currently it has Labella 760FS strings. They're great. I've been looking at Labella LTFs. Would switching to those automatically take some relief out of the neck? Or is that not how tension works?

Obviously, a simple truss rod adjustment can help. But I don't want to go cranking on that truss rod too much, since it's already in a pretty good spot. Plus, it's a bit of an older basses. I feel like those necks don't want to move too much after having been where they are for a good long while.

Just curious if a low-tension string could be a more elegant solution for getting just a little bit more relief out of the neck.

Thoughts?

Think about a bow and arrow, more specifically the just the bow. The tighter the string the more the bow bends.
The end.

 

[2thAche]

Truss rod tweak will take care of any change in relief. Lower tension strings in the same tuning isn't as dramatic as down-tuning to Eb or D standard. You may notice more fret buzz with lower tension depending how you play.

 

[Rocket Queen]

It depends on whether the strings actually have less total tension when tuned up to pitch, or if they are just called "low tension" because their particular construction and composition makes them feel less stiff to the fingers when pressing on them or bending notes... I don't know the particulars regarding the strings in question...

Total tension for long scale LTFs = 134.9 lbs. Relatively light for flats.

 

[2F/2F]

I have a question about string tension. I did a search and nothing exactly answered my question. Plus, I prefer a dialogue rather than a lonely research session, so...

How exactly does lower tension affect the relief on a bass neck? One of my older basses has really great action but I'm curious how the neck would respond to lower tension string.

Currently it has Labella 760FS strings. They're great. I've been looking at Labella LTFs. Would switching to those automatically take some relief out of the neck? Or is that not how tension works?

Obviously, a simple truss rod adjustment can help. But I don't want to go cranking on that truss rod too much, since it's already in a pretty good spot. Plus, it's a bit of an older basses. I feel like those necks don't want to move too much after having been where they are for a good long while.

Just curious if a low-tension string could be a more elegant solution for getting just a little bit more relief out of the neck.

Thoughts?

A lot of this is very complex, overwrought thinking for a very simple and straightforward issue.

A tension change on the strings changes the bow on the neck, period...and that's why we have adjustable truss rods. It's pretty much that simple.

On a bass with a properly functioning neck, the goal should not be to avoid adjusting it. The goal should be to adjust it as needed. You should welcome this adjustment ability, not shirk away from it. It gives you control and options.

Your idea of older rods not liking to be adjusted is off the mark. Old basses can adjust fine. New basses right out of the factory can have inoperative rods. It isn't about age, but condition and proper adjustment technique. If you can't adjust the rod confidently and effectively any time you want, then your bass does not fully work, period. This can happen on a bass of any age. Again, it means the bass is not a properly functioning tool. Replace it or fix it; don't limit yourself to working around it.

Take the bass to a professional for adjustment if you won't do it yourself. But unless you're talking about a truly historic and valuable vintage piece that shouldn't be altered, then if it doesn't work, fix it. And if it works, use it.