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Stringing a bass
- Thread starter DRut
- Start date
NEw Baby, finished military service got married and finished a masters degree and a Doctorate degree, so yeah I had to take some time off lolYou have really been taking your time I see. TB member since 2013. I like that, no rush.
JeezyMcNuggles
Inactive
- Feb 23, 2018
- 14,723
- 20,970
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- I suck, but nobody really notices
Start with the next size down. Should be 105 or 100. Go from there. Just save the 130 or throw it away
Let me ask a general string tuning question for everybody:
When and if you all tune BEAD, on a 4 string, when buying a 5 string set, do you all tend to buy light gauge strings or Med-Lights, because of tension constraints...?... Or does it vary (player preference and bass neck etc?)
I found a Markbass 5'er 45-125 Med-Light SS set ...and was curious about trying this on my P Bass.
When and if you all tune BEAD, on a 4 string, when buying a 5 string set, do you all tend to buy light gauge strings or Med-Lights, because of tension constraints...?... Or does it vary (player preference and bass neck etc?)
I found a Markbass 5'er 45-125 Med-Light SS set ...and was curious about trying this on my P Bass.
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First try and exchange the strings for a 4 strings set. If you haven't already put any of them on the bass, that should be possible.
Personally I love BEAD tuning. I have 5 string basses but I like the smaller neck and the low notes. But if you are just starting out you'll need to learn the positions of all the notes on the neck. And unless you only play by ear, you would have to translate everything you read from books or are shown by other people to your unusual tuning.
So much easier to learn the normal tuning then change later if you feel the need.
Personally I love BEAD tuning. I have 5 string basses but I like the smaller neck and the low notes. But if you are just starting out you'll need to learn the positions of all the notes on the neck. And unless you only play by ear, you would have to translate everything you read from books or are shown by other people to your unusual tuning.
So much easier to learn the normal tuning then change later if you feel the need.
String tension of a BEAD set is less than EADG tension. Use whatever gauge your comfortable with. You might even need to release some tension in your truss rod. You also Will probably need to file out the sides of the nut slots if the strings don't fit all the way into the slots.
Maybe get a pro set up for it unless you're confident about doing it.
Turn the tuner until string comes loose. Don’t just cut the string with wire cutters. Strings have a lot of pull or pressure on them. Slim chance that the sudden shock of release pressure could affect the neck.
This means when you go to remove the existing strings from the bass, do so by turning the tuning machines so the pitch of the strings gets lower and lower, and they get looser and looser, then remove them.
Some people make the mistake of simply cutting the strings when they are under tension. This is very bad for the bass, because the sudden release in tension when the strings are cut makes the neck snap back.
Never cut the strings to take them off the bass; de-tune them and then remove.
Welcome friend. You've chosen the best instrument there is.
If you don't believe me, just ask us.
If you don't mind me asking, do you have any music background at all?
Guitar? Piano? Violin?....
If no, let me suggest lessons.
I'd get that before I even worried about changing strings quite honestly.
Your very first lesson will probably include alot of information about your new instrument....including things like how to properly change the strings, and get you acquainted with all aspects of your bass.
Good luck!
If you don't believe me, just ask us.
If you don't mind me asking, do you have any music background at all?
Guitar? Piano? Violin?....
If no, let me suggest lessons.
I'd get that before I even worried about changing strings quite honestly.
Your very first lesson will probably include alot of information about your new instrument....including things like how to properly change the strings, and get you acquainted with all aspects of your bass.
Good luck!
If you are uncertain about such a simple procedure, take it to someone and have experience do it. Watch what they do. Don't learn at the expense of your bass. After stringing you will need to check the neck and intonation. Have a tech at a shop do it.
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLwIf_jr1I1uqUiq0umkQ_OJRlM6hSpyqR&feature=shared
Swap the five string set for a four string set. You’ll probably save a few bucks. And, are you sure you want flats? Round wounds are much more common, and usually less expensive. And less tension.
Gather the tools, set up a padded surface to work, you’ll be doing setups that suit you in no time.
Check out some string demos on YouTube.
Swap the five string set for a four string set. You’ll probably save a few bucks. And, are you sure you want flats? Round wounds are much more common, and usually less expensive. And less tension.
Gather the tools, set up a padded surface to work, you’ll be doing setups that suit you in no time.
Check out some string demos on YouTube.
Lots of good advice here. I will add that there are folks out there who choose to set up their four string basses to tune BEAD, handy if you play very low tunings and don't want to deal with a fifth string. However because the strings are all thicker you'll have to file out the slots on the nut, and if you want to go back to standard tuning you'd probably need to replace the nut as EADG strings will sit loose in the nut slots you filed for BEAD strings.
Just to give some background here on string pitch - there are three things that you can do that will have a significant impact on the pitch of the string.
The first is the speaking length of the string. You are changing this every time you fret a note - shortening the length of the string makes the pitch higher. This is also why bass guitars have a longer scale length than guitars, which have longer scale length than mandolins or ukuleles.
The second is the thickness of the string. All else being equal, a thicker string will have a lower pitch than a thinner string, which is why a typical set of 4 bass strings go from about .100 to .045 inches in diameter as they go up from E to G, and furthermore why bass strings are thicker than guitar strings. However, there's a range that you can have a string tuned to a certain pitch at - for instance a low E string can be anywhere between .090 to .110 depending on the set. Which leads to the third variable that you can adjust to correct pitch...
Third is the tension or tightness of the string. You're also going to be adjusting this frequently when you tune your bass, tightening the string raises the pitch. So you can take your .105 E string and tune it down to D for a drop D tuning, and it will work pretty well (some minor intonation issues and looseness notwithstanding), but there's a point beyond which the string will be so loose that it just won't work at all. On the other end of that, you can tighten a string up a bit safely - I sometimes tune my six string guitar to open E, which raises a couple of strings up a whole note - but going up a full fourth, say from B to E, will likely cause the string core to snap.
As a beginning bass player, I'd recommend using the top four strings of the set you bought, or returning/exchanging the set for a four string one. You'll be able to do more with a single bass tuned to EADG than a BEAD bass unless you're planning to play in a doom metal band.
Just to give some background here on string pitch - there are three things that you can do that will have a significant impact on the pitch of the string.
The first is the speaking length of the string. You are changing this every time you fret a note - shortening the length of the string makes the pitch higher. This is also why bass guitars have a longer scale length than guitars, which have longer scale length than mandolins or ukuleles.
The second is the thickness of the string. All else being equal, a thicker string will have a lower pitch than a thinner string, which is why a typical set of 4 bass strings go from about .100 to .045 inches in diameter as they go up from E to G, and furthermore why bass strings are thicker than guitar strings. However, there's a range that you can have a string tuned to a certain pitch at - for instance a low E string can be anywhere between .090 to .110 depending on the set. Which leads to the third variable that you can adjust to correct pitch...
Third is the tension or tightness of the string. You're also going to be adjusting this frequently when you tune your bass, tightening the string raises the pitch. So you can take your .105 E string and tune it down to D for a drop D tuning, and it will work pretty well (some minor intonation issues and looseness notwithstanding), but there's a point beyond which the string will be so loose that it just won't work at all. On the other end of that, you can tighten a string up a bit safely - I sometimes tune my six string guitar to open E, which raises a couple of strings up a whole note - but going up a full fourth, say from B to E, will likely cause the string core to snap.
As a beginning bass player, I'd recommend using the top four strings of the set you bought, or returning/exchanging the set for a four string one. You'll be able to do more with a single bass tuned to EADG than a BEAD bass unless you're planning to play in a doom metal band.
There is a bass blogger / musician who uses thickest 4 from a 5 set in his bass and tunes it EADG. He likes how clean they sound... I have no clue and watching YouTube it just sounds as it sounds. I would think they will be a bit boomy, but some like that. And yes, you will need to file the slots bigger which is not worth it if you did not make a goal to play like that.
