Strings for the Ibanez EHB1005SMS

[tsarter]

I use flats on all my basses. Several are short scales. My fav gauge ( for four strings ) is .39-.96, so I think they’ll do fine.

Had a chance to use the new base with a band this evening. Very cool instrument

 

[BasseroDE]

While we are at it, have anyone tried Ernie Ball Cobalt strings on a EHB with the Bartolini BH2's ?
Those pickups sound way too dark to me, but other strings might make a difference.

I know I'm a year late but anyway:

I really like the EB Cobalts on my 1005SMS - also with the Barts. To me they didn't sound muddy but I could creaty nice throaty, burpy sounds.

But I know what you mean. I replaced the Barts with ZenBlades and while it changes the sound and I really love that new sound - I don't think that swapping out the Barts is a must-do mod. Especially at today's prices. YMMV

 

[NinjaPyrate]

I tried TI Jazz Flatts, which I use on my other basses, and to my ears it didn't sound right though I can't explain why. I recently put on LaBella Low Tension Flats and it sounds great.

 

[DanDBassist]

It seems to me, that since the string is cut behind the nut, that a medium or long scale scale set should work. That said, I'm specifically interested to find out if this can be done with flatwounds. Because if I can use a set of LaBella DTFs (or even better LTFs), I'm in serious trouble.

Is there anything that can be done to the string before clamping/cutting to reduce the chance of breaking? A little bit of epoxy or thin heat shrink tubing for example?

I soak my strings in superglue. But NOT at the point where they get clamped.
I use superglue to be shure that the winding would not losen when replacing still good strings with other strings, since i was on a string frency. So i can put the used strings back again. It was for me just about that.

If you break strings at the clamping point, is it very unlikely that any glue would help here, since you squeeze the strings at that point.
One would have to check, if some Metalpowder + glue could help here. idk.


i switched between several sets of strings and never broke any strings.
i´ve not tryed flats so far.

personally, i just check for the minimal lenght of the lowest string, to check if a set would fit.
In fact have i had a custom set on my 1005sms, which was based on guitar strings ( but something went wrong with the tension / was a custom piccolo A-E set / worked out. not broke any string)

FYI, for anyone who wants to try, metal powder + glue = JB weld (my favorite adhesive). I may try heat shrink tubing - from what I can tell the strings should still fit but I will report back (after I receive my EHB1005SMS which may be a while).

Just got one of these basses in a trade today. Very cool! I’ll be putting on a set of Light gauge La Bella flats as soon as possible.

These days I’m mainly playing vintage Fender and guild basses so it’s a really interesting amd fun detour.

I’ve found that short-scales can be a bit touchy about strings- you can only increase string diameter so much, before it starts to do weird things to the upper harmonics and intonation. At the same time, steel-core strings don’t sound great much below 30-35lb per string, even if you pluck very lightly.

I’ve been on a bit of a string odysseys after picking up an EHB1005SMS. I bought mine used, with Kalium stainless balanced 136’s on it. They felt OK, but sounded a bit mid-heavy and dull, and the B string sounded hollow, as though it needed more tension.

I put a .145 D’Addario Nickel XL single on in place of the B, and it improved the tension, tone and feel over the Kaliums. Still, it sounded pretty dark, and didn’t think it complememented the stock electronics.

Next, I tried a set of DR Black Beauties, 45-125. The B string didn’t sound as loose and flubby as I expected, and the overall tone seemed well-balanced. They worked OK with a gentle touch, and intonation well.

Still, the B string wasn’t as focused as I wanted, and I thought I noted a slight deadness at the third fret on the A string.

Next, I tried a few mixed sets of D’addario Nickel XL’s. The EXL165 set (reg light/med bottom 45/65/85/105) looked OK on paper with the 120 from a set of EXL160BT’s, but while they sound bright and crisp, they were too loose.

that prompted me to check out the first 3 strings of the EXL160BT’s (50, 67, 90) with the .105 from the EXL165’s and my 145. A 110 would have been better for the E, giving the whole set a nearly perfect 40lb average tension.

Still, this has been the best set so far. Dynamically responsive, even string to string, crisp, and just scooped enough to offset the nasal sound of the stock electronics.

The only trouble is, the extra harmonic detail really brings our that dead spot on the C in first position.

Talking to other owners, dead spots on headless basses aren’t that uncommon, but if an SMS has one, it usually seems to be between the 7th and 12th frets on the G string. My bass seems the exception, with such a strong node way down in the “money notes”.

I hope to do a few experiments this weekend, to see if I can fix it. If so, I think that this is an excellent string set, especially if you’re trying to stick with the stock electronics.

PS: some people have complained about having difficulty cutting strings without scratching or denting the face of the headstock. I found that using compound-leverage 7-8” diagonal cutters made for a cleaner and more controlled cut than smallish flush-cut wire cutters.

These are great:

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWHT70275-Compound-Diagonal-Cutters/dp/B006H8QJB8/ref=sr_1_1?crid=TWOH0TTNV733&keywords=70275+compound+diagonal+cutters&qid=1648173826&sprefix=70275+compound+diagonal+cutters+,aps,64&sr=8-1


These are OK too:
https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-11412-Compound-Diagonal/dp/B000PRWJ52/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3GKK9GCM1BHMN&keywords=Titan+11412+diagonal+cutters&qid=1648174008&sprefix=titan+11412+diagonal+cutters,aps,72&sr=8-1

Alright you all, I have great news to report: I broke down and installed LaBella LTFs and they are amazing. The B string is clear and blends with the others in closed positions. Over all I am a very happy camper now. By the way, I play only with a Fender medium standard shape and size pick. I believe that the first strings I tried were tightened too much at the clamp and thats why they broke. And there are no burrs on the clamps. Good luck all, my shoulders thank me every time I play.

 

[John Marlar]

Alright you all, I have great news to report: I broke down and installed LaBella LTFs and they are amazing. The B string is clear and blends with the others in closed positions. Over all I am a very happy camper now. By the way, I play only with a Fender medium standard shape and size pick. I believe that the first strings I tried were tightened too much at the clamp and thats why they broke. And there are no burrs on the clamps. Good luck all, my shoulders thank me every time I play.

So when you put the flatwounds on this you simply cut them behind the clamp and all was well? Just curious because I just received my EHB1505SMS. And also - did you use the long scale set?

 

[DanDBassist]

So when you put the flatwounds on this you simply cut them behind the clamp and all was well? Just curious because I just received my EHB1505SMS. And also - did you use the long scale set?

Yes, I cut behind the clamp and the set is Long Scale. And still pleased after a year and a half.

 

[John Marlar]

Thanks very much for your answer. Many times I have seen that you shouldn’t cut flats beyond the silks. Glad this works because I really like flats.

 

[evs]

I've used Dunlop flats on my EHB.
I put heat shrink wrap over the string before cutting the string.
It worked great.