Strings for the Ibanez EHB1005SMS

[DanDBassist]

Because these basses are multiscale, 30 inch to 32 inch, traditional bass string sets in short scale don't necessarily fit.

There are claims by certain companies that they have designed short scale bass strings which help compensate for the inherent problems that short scale basses are known for. (I believe one design has to do with the core to wrap ratio.)

What would be helpful would be to have a thread dedicated to our experiences with strings for the Ibanez EHB1005SMS.
Likes dislikes etc.

 

[Aidil]

While I don't have an Ibanez EHB SMS (my EHB is the MS) and my SS is the Ibanez SRC6, I agree to have a dedicated discussion of special designed shortscale strings which could overcome somewhat floppiness issue.

But first, what are your assessments on the XL Nickel strings that came with your EHB SMS?

 

[DanDBassist]

For the last three years my main instrument has been the 30" SS Squire Jaguar. I used D'Addario XL Nickel 45-100 LT Med Scale strings for a couple of years and was content with those. Then after reading the posts on here about flatwounds I installed a set of SS GHS Precision Flats and was enthralled with the sound and feel. Had a little extra funds and got some LaBella Deep Talkin' Bass 760FS-S .045 - .105 and the sound was even more amazing.

That was a little background for the place I am in now:

The strings that come on the Ibanez EHB1005SMS are just fine and now put me back to being just content with them. Since using flats and getting that sound, I don't want to be just content. I really would like to try some flats.

The majority of problems with short scale basses appear to be the type of overtones which give that out of tune sound from especially the lowest pitched strings. The GHS strings did a good job with that and the LaBella brought more clarity across all the strings. I believe that these two companies have designed these strings for short scale basses instead of just using the same strings for all scales and making them to that length.

Now, since my bass is multiscale and has the headless design, I am going to try a set standard long scale 5 string flatwounds in hope that the 32" length for the B string may be long enough to help with the overtones. One of the selling points of the headless design is to allow the use of standard scale and not have to only use short or medium scale strings.

There are so many types of flatwounds made today that I don't know where to start....

 

[NinjaPyrate]

For the last three years my main instrument has been the 30" SS Squire Jaguar. I used D'Addario XL Nickel 45-100 LT Med Scale strings for a couple of years and was content with those. Then after reading the posts on here about flatwounds I installed a set of SS GHS Precision Flats and was enthralled with the sound and feel. Had a little extra funds and got some LaBella Deep Talkin' Bass 760FS-S .045 - .105 and the sound was even more amazing.

That was a little background for the place I am in now:

The strings that come on the Ibanez EHB1005SMS are just fine and now put me back to being just content with them. Since using flats and getting that sound, I don't want to be just content. I really would like to try some flats.

The majority of problems with short scale basses appear to be the type of overtones which give that out of tune sound from especially the lowest pitched strings. The GHS strings did a good job with that and the LaBella brought more clarity across all the strings. I believe that these two companies have designed these strings for short scale basses instead of just using the same strings for all scales and making them to that length.

Now, since my bass is multiscale and has the headless design, I am going to try a set standard long scale 5 string flatwounds in hope that the 32" length for the B string may be long enough to help with the overtones. One of the selling points of the headless design is to allow the use of standard scale and not have to only use short or medium scale strings.

There are so many types of flatwounds made today that I don't know where to start....

Hey, Did the standard long scale (34") fit?

 

[yberwaffe]

While we are at it, have anyone tried Ernie Ball Cobalt strings on a EHB with the Bartolini BH2's ?
Those pickups sound way too dark to me, but other strings might make a difference.

 

[HelpImaRock]

It seems to me, that since the string is cut behind the nut, that a medium or long scale scale set should work. That said, I'm specifically interested to find out if this can be done with flatwounds. Because if I can use a set of LaBella DTFs (or even better LTFs), I'm in serious trouble.

 

[DanDBassist]

It seems to me, that since the string is cut behind the nut, that a medium or long scale scale set should work. That said, I'm specifically interested to find out if this can be done with flatwounds. Because if I can use a set of LaBella DTFs (or even better LTFs), I'm in serious trouble.

This may not be anyone else's experience but I broke two LTFs at the clamp and have been skittish about trying more. Someone had suggested that the screws might have burrs. Before I got this advice I had used different types of flatwounds with no breakage. (Luckily I had several different incomplete packages of flats and only had to buy a B string).

 

[Yahboy]

While we are at it, have anyone tried Ernie Ball Cobalt strings on a EHB with the Bartolini BH2's ?
Those pickups sound way too dark to me, but other strings might make a difference.

If the roundwound bass string sound dark on BH2 pup, the EB Cobalt flat won't help much actually.

 

[NinjaPyrate]

This may not be anyone else's experience but I broke two LTFs at the clamp and have been skittish about trying more. Someone had suggested that the screws might have burrs. Before I got this advice I had used different types of flatwounds with no breakage. (Luckily I had several different incomplete packages of flats and only had to buy a B string).

Is there anything that can be done to the string before clamping/cutting to reduce the chance of breaking? A little bit of epoxy or thin heat shrink tubing for example?

 

[DanDBassist]

Is there anything that can be done to the string before clamping/cutting to reduce the chance of breaking? A little bit of epoxy or thin heat shrink tubing for example?

The same thoughts occurred to me. Someone on another thread had mentioned soaking in super glue but I don't know who or where that was now.

None of the standard flats I used broke so I just kind of dismissed the idea of using LTFs. But still would like to try them.

At this moment the D and G strings are GHS PRECISION FLATS that used to be on my ss Jaguar. These two fit such that the tapered section is in the clamp. The medium scale GHS E and A are too short so these two are the mismatched standard scale from my incomplete sets. The B string is a GHS flat that was the only single B string in our city. Somehow they work pretty well together.

 

[HelpImaRock]

At this moment the D and G strings are GHS PRECISION FLATS that used to be on my ss Jaguar. These two fit such that the tapered section is in the clamp. The medium scale GHS E and A are too short so these two are the mismatched standard scale from my incomplete sets. The B string is a GHS flat that was the only single B string in our city. Somehow they work pretty well together.

Hmm...this doesn't bode well.

 

[Funky40]

Someone on another thread had mentioned soaking in super glue but I don't know who or where that was now.

I soak my strings in superglue. But NOT at the point where they get clamped.
I use superglue to be shure that the winding would not losen when replacing still good strings with other strings, since i was on a string frency. So i can put the used strings back again. It was for me just about that.

If you break strings at the clamping point, is it very unlikely that any glue would help here, since you squeeze the strings at that point.
One would have to check, if some Metalpowder + glue could help here. idk.


i switched between several sets of strings and never broke any strings.
i´ve not tryed flats so far.

personally, i just check for the minimal lenght of the lowest string, to check if a set would fit.
In fact have i had a custom set on my 1005sms, which was based on guitar strings ( but something went wrong with the tension / was a custom piccolo A-E set / worked out. not broke any string)

 

[NinjaPyrate]

I soak my strings in superglue. But NOT at the point where they get clamped.
I use superglue to be shure that the winding would not losen when replacing still good strings with other strings, since i was on a string frency. So i can put the used strings back again. It was for me just about that.

If you break strings at the clamping point, is it very unlikely that any glue would help here, since you squeeze the strings at that point.
One would have to check, if some Metalpowder + glue could help here. idk.


i switched between several sets of strings and never broke any strings.
i´ve not tryed flats so far.

personally, i just check for the minimal lenght of the lowest string, to check if a set would fit.
In fact have i had a custom set on my 1005sms, which was based on guitar strings ( but something went wrong with the tension / was a custom piccolo A-E set / worked out. not broke any string)

FYI, for anyone who wants to try, metal powder + glue = JB weld (my favorite adhesive). I may try heat shrink tubing - from what I can tell the strings should still fit but I will report back (after I receive my EHB1005SMS which may be a while).

 

[DanDBassist]

The same thoughts occurred to me. Someone on another thread had mentioned soaking in super glue but I don't know who or where that was now.

None of the standard flats I used broke so I just kind of dismissed the idea of using LTFs. But still would like to try them.

At this moment the D and G strings are GHS PRECISION FLATS that used to be on my ss Jaguar. These two fit such that the tapered section is in the clamp. The medium scale GHS E and A are too short so these two are the mismatched standard scale from my incomplete sets. The B string is a GHS flat that was the only single B string in our city. Somehow they work pretty well together.

The GHS PRECISION FLATS I posted about before are short scale not medium scale. The E and A were too short for my 1005SMS. Sorry if I caused any confusion.

It seems to me, that since the string is cut behind the nut, that a medium or long scale scale set should work. That said, I'm specifically interested to find out if this can be done with flatwounds. Because if I can use a set of LaBella DTFs (or even better LTFs), I'm in serious trouble.

From what I have experienced so far and from some other postings most flatwounds should work (as long as the winding is long enough). I can only hope that my experience breaking the LTFs at the clamp is due to my turning the clamp screw too tight. It WAS my very first attempt to change strings. I still have the E and A but what's on there now is working and they would for sure not sound balanced together. Someday when I have extra money.

 

[steve_rolfeca]

Still looking for clarity: Will regular D'Addario EXL170-5 long-scale 45-130 sets fit (especially the E and B strings), or does the EHB1005SMS actually require the SL (Super-Long) set that Ibanez ships the bass with?

I find it curious that Ibanez uses the same Super Long set on the 35" EHB1005MS, as on the 32" version...

 

[DanDBassist]

Still looking for clarity: Will regular D'Addario EXL170-5 long-scale 45-130 sets fit (especially the E and B strings), or does the EHB1005SMS actually require the SL (Super-Long) set that Ibanez ships the bass with?

I find it curious that Ibanez uses the same Super Long set on the 35" EHB1005MS, as on the 32" version...

Who knows why D'Addario uses what they do. Maybe it's simpler to use only the one set for both of these instruments since it works for both.

Here are the measurements I took on my EHB1005SMS this morning. From the ball end to a half way point between the nut and the clamp. I measured to the half way point to get a minimum winding length for each string. I figure that if the winding length fits then the total string length is plenty long.

The following measurements are for the minimum winding length on my EHB1005SMS:
5th 34 1/2"
4th 34"
3rd 33 1/2"
2nd 32 3/4"
1st 32 1/2"

The following is from D'Addario's website:

EXL170-5 is the 5 String version of the best-selling D'Addario bass set. Fits long scale basses with a string scale length of up to 36 1/4 inches.

Fret Nation has this listed: (I believe this is more helpful)

D'Addario Bass Strings:

• Short Scale = 32" Ball to Taper (or Silk)
• Medium Scale = 34" Ball to Taper (or Silk)
• Long Scale = 37.1" Ball to Taper (or Silk)
• Super Long Scale = 38" Ball to Taper (or Silk)

 

[steve_rolfeca]

Who knows why D'Addario uses what they do. Maybe it's simpler to use only the one set for both of these instruments since it works for both.

Here are the measurements I took on my EHB1005SMS this morning. From the ball end to a half way point between the nut and the clamp. I measured to the half way point to get a minimum winding length for each string. I figure that if the winding length fits then the total string length is plenty long.

The following measurements are for the minimum winding length on my EHB1005SMS:
5th 34 1/2"
4th 34"
3rd 33 1/2"
2nd 32 3/4"
1st 32 1/2"

The following is from D'Addario's website:

EXL170-5 is the 5 String version of the best-selling D'Addario bass set. Fits long scale basses with a string scale length of up to 36 1/4 inches.

Fret Nation has this listed: (I believe this is more helpful)

D'Addario Bass Strings:

• Short Scale = 32" Ball to Taper (or Silk)
• Medium Scale = 34" Ball to Taper (or Silk)
• Long Scale = 37.1" Ball to Taper (or Silk)
• Super Long Scale = 38" Ball to Taper (or Silk)

Perfect.

So users are cutting the string BEFORE the silk and/or taper on either set, regardless. That also explains why a medium-scale B string didn't fit.

Good to know that regular long-scale strings will fit- it opens up your options a lot...

 

[Aidil]

Still looking for clarity: Will regular D'Addario EXL170-5 long-scale 45-130 sets fit (especially the E and B strings), or does the EHB1005SMS actually require the SL (Super-Long) set that Ibanez ships the bass with?

I find it curious that Ibanez uses the same Super Long set on the 35" EHB1005MS, as on the 32" version...

I think it's just a typo that the EHB SMS spec sheet said the factory default strings are D'Addario SL set. Most likely, it's just a classical copy-paste error from the EHB MS specs.

I've replaced the factory D'Addario XL strings of my EHB1005MS with D'Addario NYXL 45-105 and a 130T single. And none of these are even the SL. They are all the regular long scale.

 

[tsarter]

Just got one of these basses in a trade today. Very cool! I'll be putting on a set of Light gauge La Bella flats as soon as possible.

These days I'm mainly playing vintage Fender and guild basses so it's a really interesting amd fun detour.

 

[steve_rolfeca]

I've found that short-scales can be a bit touchy about strings- you can only increase string diameter so much, before it starts to do weird things to the upper harmonics and intonation. At the same time, steel-core strings don't sound great much below 30-35lb per string, even if you pluck very lightly.

I've been on a bit of a string odysseys after picking up an EHB1005SMS. I bought mine used, with Kalium stainless balanced 136's on it. They felt OK, but sounded a bit mid-heavy and dull, and the B string sounded hollow, as though it needed more tension.

I put a .145 D'Addario Nickel XL single on in place of the B, and it improved the tension, tone and feel over the Kaliums. Still, it sounded pretty dark, and didn't think it complememented the stock electronics.

Next, I tried a set of DR Black Beauties, 45-125. The B string didn't sound as loose and flubby as I expected, and the overall tone seemed well-balanced. They worked OK with a gentle touch, and intonation well.

Still, the B string wasn't as focused as I wanted, and I thought I noted a slight deadness at the third fret on the A string.

Next, I tried a few mixed sets of D'addario Nickel XL's. The EXL165 set (reg light/med bottom 45/65/85/105) looked OK on paper with the 120 from a set of EXL160BT's, but while they sound bright and crisp, they were too loose.

that prompted me to check out the first 3 strings of the EXL160BT's (50, 67, 90) with the .105 from the EXL165's and my 145. A 110 would have been better for the E, giving the whole set a nearly perfect 40lb average tension.

Still, this has been the best set so far. Dynamically responsive, even string to string, crisp, and just scooped enough to offset the nasal sound of the stock electronics.

The only trouble is, the extra harmonic detail really brings our that dead spot on the C in first position.

Talking to other owners, dead spots on headless basses aren't that uncommon, but if an SMS has one, it usually seems to be between the 7th and 12th frets on the G string. My bass seems the exception, with such a strong node way down in the "money notes".

I hope to do a few experiments this weekend, to see if I can fix it. If so, I think that this is an excellent string set, especially if you're trying to stick with the stock electronics.

PS: some people have complained about having difficulty cutting strings without scratching or denting the face of the headstock. I found that using compound-leverage 7-8" diagonal cutters made for a cleaner and more controlled cut than smallish flush-cut wire cutters.

These are great:

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWHT7...0275+compound+diagonal+cutters+,aps,64&sr=8-1


These are OK too:
https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-...ix=titan+11412+diagonal+cutters,aps,72&sr=8-1