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Strings not centered on neck -- with photos

I had the same problem on an American Deluxe Jazz.

Loosen the screws, move the headstock (like you did) and keep holding the neck in the proper alignment when you tighten the screws.

I know, you need three hands. I wrapped a leg around the body and used a screw gun. Looked like I was wrestling with the damn thing but it got the job done. You could always just get someone to assist.

+1, This is what I do.

First, loosen the strings enough to relieve the tension, but taunt enough to keep them straight.

It helps if you have someone to assist you, but I've done it alone wrapping a leg around the body. You have to keep pressure on the neck while you re-tighten the screws.

I have had to do this with the majority of bolt-on neck basses in my collection.

Based on the pictures, your neck needs to be pushed in the direction of the G string.

If this doesn't work, then try the shim ideas offered on this thread.
 
+1, This is what I do.

First, loosen the strings enough to relieve the tension, but taunt enough to keep them straight.

It helps if you have someone to assist you, but I've done it alone wrapping a leg around the body. You have to keep pressure on the neck while you re-tighten the screws.

I have had to do this with the majority of bolt-on neck basses in my collection.

Based on the pictures, your neck needs to be pushed in the direction of the G string.

If this doesn't work, then try the shim ideas offered on this thread.

One of my big questions is about the size of the screw hole in the body. Right now I need to screw the screws in to get through the neck (I can actually screw them in with my fingers).

Is it typical for the screws to have to be screwed through the body, or can they simply be slid through the body till the meet the neck, then screwed from there, just using the clamping pressure between the neckplate and the screws in the neck to hold the neck in place?
 
One of my big questions is about the size of the screw hole in the body. Right now I need to screw the screws in to get through the neck (I can actually screw them in with my fingers).

Is it typical for the screws to have to be screwed through the body, or can they simply be slid through the body till the meet the neck, then screwed from there, just using the clamping pressure between the neckplate and the screws in the neck to hold the neck in place?

Yes, it is common that the screws go through the body easily, and then the threads get tight in the neck heel holes.

BTW, you only need to loosen the screws about halfway out of the neck heel in order to make a slight adjustment on how the neck sits in the pocket.
 
The photo of the end of the neck does not appear to have been taken on center.

Another school about schools of thought are thus: appearance of centered vs. feel of centered.

By this, I mean that many people set up the nut with equal distances between the edges of the strings, but with equal distances between the centers of the strings at the bridge. Now, before I get onto my soapbox about intonation and feel, let us regress to the topic on this thread. Appearance. Now, I've seen many times, that the neck can be moved in the pocket (inserts or not), and by being conscious of this, one can look at their instrument, and whack the neck on the opposite side of where there is more space, and get things "centered." Sure, this is crude, but as one make smaller and smaller adjustments followed by a tightening check on the neck bolts, you're usually pretty good to go until the next time your roadie drops the instrument.

Basically, this sort of thing happens. Remember, if an E string is .125" from the edge of the fret bevel, that is about the same as an under cut 3/16" when both are considered at the first fret, and when both are wanted to be at an equal distance in their contact with the fret, from the edge of the useful fret.

Now my soapbox has less dust on it. So, we think of the two though schools in fretboard design: straight radius vs compound radius.

Personally, I strongly believe straight radii are B.S., or hogwash. Considering the string path from a nut location that gives string spread width (let us not discuss center to center vs equal space between at this moment, because that doesn't factor enough, yet) that is less than the spread at the bridge, and no matter what (unless for a flat fingerboard), you are dealing with a conical profile along the bottom (lower most contact patch) of the strings. It is a little more, but not that much, complex considering that we allow thicker strings more room to vibrate. Still, in the grand scheme of things, we generally have a string path that sets up a conical travel for the part of the string that will contact the fret. Why on earth would we want a cylinder underneath that? This is my gripe with straight radius finger/fretboards.

Before someone wonders.....this does tie into spacing and appearance, give me a few minutes more......

Close your eyes and consider the string path, a cone. Imagine that cone, the one that connects the lower most portion of the string, the part that will contact the fret, and then think of a cylinder (the fret crowns). Place those two arcs as close as you can. They don't match, even with the nut argument shift (center vs equal space), even with gradual action increase. It just doesn't fit. What does fit is a conical shape to the fret crowns that suits the desired feel of the strings and playing style. To a speedier player, a flatter cone, to a more subtle one, perhaps a tighter one. The nuances are personal, but the physics are the same.

As for string spacing, when we consider a conical fret crown layout, and a center to center spacing at both the nut and bridge, we have true symmetry. However, due to the different width of the strings, we have an optical illusion of something being out of whack.

I'm not against equal distance spacing at the nut, I'm just for mimicry at the nut and bridge. I am against cylindrical (straight) radius finger/fretboards, though, because the string path does not follow a cylinder.

Ok, off the soapbox now....and off to sleep.