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In my city (Athens ) there are only a handful of pro-builders and i assure you that everyone of them are also repairing instruments. The market for selling handmade basses/guitars is just not big enough for doing only building. There are luthiers exclusively building other kind of instruments though
I am not going to give it to a guitar shop repair guy. I have spoken with a luthier/technician here that is revered by many . He repairs instruments and has his one line of hand-made guitars. I will make an appointment but he has a 3(!) month waiting list.
Thank you all for the help and guidance. I was really shocked to get these news. I will keep this thread updated when i fix it, for future reference of anyone unlucky enough
I think there's a lot of suggestions on here that may work. I had a '68 VW (why did I sell it???) and had to get creative when working on it.
Cutting a slot is exactly what I thought of too. Fixing up the edges and making a tool to fit are also great ideas. If the tool steel is harder than the truss rod nut steel, maybe the tool can be used as a punch to widen out and cold form the nut hex to be larger especially if the tool is tapered. You may end up with a custom nut and custom fit tool. May not work well on hardened steel...
I would try those "easy" solutions before messing with the fretboard because if they don't work, fretboard is still plan B.
If the nut can be taken out like in the photo above couldn't the first fret be pulled and then the fretboard removed just up to the first fret? Then just won't Crack the fretboard trying to pry it up and bend it and the piece can be glued back in place, or worst case a new small fretboard piece made.
Cutting a slot is exactly what I thought of too. Fixing up the edges and making a tool to fit are also great ideas. If the tool steel is harder than the truss rod nut steel, maybe the tool can be used as a punch to widen out and cold form the nut hex to be larger especially if the tool is tapered. You may end up with a custom nut and custom fit tool. May not work well on hardened steel...
I would try those "easy" solutions before messing with the fretboard because if they don't work, fretboard is still plan B.
If the nut can be taken out like in the photo above couldn't the first fret be pulled and then the fretboard removed just up to the first fret? Then just won't Crack the fretboard trying to pry it up and bend it and the piece can be glued back in place, or worst case a new small fretboard piece made.
I FINALLY DID IT ! I FINALLY DID IT !
long story short, Imade the female socket into a male one, using an allen shaped piece and then welding it in with cold-weld resin.
I will provide more info and photos when i come back from work but i fixed it by inserting, or more precisely wedging in, an allen adaptor (i dont know how you really call it ...) It is an allen metal piece that is coupled with a nut and a screw/nut driver. The allen has different sizes at both sides.
*It is about 2-2.5cm long the first 1cm has the shape of an allen key which widens from 5mm at the bottom to 5.5 in the end. The edges of the hexagon are a bit protruding. The other half is just an allen.I think is it is called a crescent-allen tip.
Something like that but of better quality :
http://toolsforlife.gr/images/stories/virtuemart/product/imagestpbmvlda.jpg
*I used epoxic resin (Permatex) and hammered it in the stripped nut. Watch out for the epoxy not to spil over on the wood, if you try it too.
*I used a small dremel driver tool to create space on the headstock for the nut to be inserted . Similar to this :
Invalid Link Removed
* I also oiled the external surface of the rod , where is moves against the wood.
And ta-dan after the resin cured the rod turns likes a charm....!
I also think that whatever made the rod hard to turn was defeated by the hammering and the oil.
I then oilled the fretboard with a fretboard oil, cleans the frets like a mirror and treated its body with adequate beeswax.
long story short, Imade the female socket into a male one, using an allen shaped piece and then welding it in with cold-weld resin.
I will provide more info and photos when i come back from work but i fixed it by inserting, or more precisely wedging in, an allen adaptor (i dont know how you really call it ...) It is an allen metal piece that is coupled with a nut and a screw/nut driver. The allen has different sizes at both sides.
*It is about 2-2.5cm long the first 1cm has the shape of an allen key which widens from 5mm at the bottom to 5.5 in the end. The edges of the hexagon are a bit protruding. The other half is just an allen.I think is it is called a crescent-allen tip.
Something like that but of better quality :
http://toolsforlife.gr/images/stories/virtuemart/product/imagestpbmvlda.jpg
*I used epoxic resin (Permatex) and hammered it in the stripped nut. Watch out for the epoxy not to spil over on the wood, if you try it too.
*I used a small dremel driver tool to create space on the headstock for the nut to be inserted . Similar to this :
Invalid Link Removed
* I also oiled the external surface of the rod , where is moves against the wood.
And ta-dan after the resin cured the rod turns likes a charm....!
I also think that whatever made the rod hard to turn was defeated by the hammering and the oil.
I then oilled the fretboard with a fretboard oil, cleans the frets like a mirror and treated its body with adequate beeswax.
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![20171117_194341[1].jpg](/data/attachments/5219/5219682-2ca2e2ace2caecd1b3f073380a29519a.jpg?hash=LKLirOLK7N)
Thank you, it is indeed. When I got the quotes for repairing it by repair techs it was either invention or the bass would sleep in the closetNecessity truly is the mother of Invention...
Good job!
This thread could be a good resource for many people in the future (like me, for one of my basses which I’ve inadvertantly worn the nut’s hex slots down on somewhat)
This thread could be a good resource for many people in the future (like me, for one of my basses which I’ve inadvertantly worn the nut’s hex slots down on somewhat)
Thank you ! I would advise to add some lubrication in the back side of the nut either through a hole if there is one or on the external side.
The perks of having a large best market in you country
. If you need more details in any future experimentation send me a message.
Would something like J-B Weld work for the epoxy for this?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8NB6OA/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8NB6OA/
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Yes . it should work , but i think that the epoxy for metals-only MAYBE prove stronger. Unfortunately J-B weld doesn't retail in my country so i haven't tested it but i think it will be just fine.
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