The screws on my saddles keep getting stripped, and I was wondering if there is a brand that I can find easily that is more durable than the stock ones on my Mexican Precision.
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Stripped screws, need help.
- Thread starter blindbassist
- Start date
Turnaround
Commercial User
Don't know what screws you mean (intonation or saddle height) but if they "keep getting stripped" you are doing something wrong.
Yes, they're the screws to set the saddle heights, sorry. So what could I be doing wrong? I'm almost sure I have the right allen wrentch, if that helps.
You can be confident that either (1) you do not have the correct wrench, or (2) you're not seating it fully in the recess before turning. When you use the right wrench and insert it fully, you can adjust those screws dozens (or hundreds) of times with no damage.
You also should not need to adjust them other than when you install strings and do a setup. If the screws are moving, use nail polish or blue Loctite to keep them from moving.
My guess is that you do not have the correct size tool.
You might just buy replacement saddles and start fresh - after making sure that you get precisely the correct wrench.
Do you remove string tension before trying to adjust your saddle height?
If so, it sounds like you are using a metric tool in a standard screw, or a standard tool in a metric screw. While this happens a lot, you would still need a high quality tool with a hardened point, and a LOT of pressure on the fastener to cause it to round out the drive hex.
A badly worn tool will also play hell with your socket head hardware. So will a ball end, but it's usually the ball end on the tool that's wonky. Not saying a ball end does not have it's place, but they should only be used if a straight tool won't work.
If it is a badly worn tool, just cut off the worn tip, chamfer the new edges a bit and you are back in business.
If so, it sounds like you are using a metric tool in a standard screw, or a standard tool in a metric screw. While this happens a lot, you would still need a high quality tool with a hardened point, and a LOT of pressure on the fastener to cause it to round out the drive hex.
A badly worn tool will also play hell with your socket head hardware. So will a ball end, but it's usually the ball end on the tool that's wonky. Not saying a ball end does not have it's place, but they should only be used if a straight tool won't work.
If it is a badly worn tool, just cut off the worn tip, chamfer the new edges a bit and you are back in business.
Raising or lowering a string a mm or two doesn't (shouldn't) require loosened strings. I have stripped screws on an import bridge I got for a project. It had zinc saddles and steel screws. The threads in the zinc were not cleanly cut and the screw jammed in the threads. I don't know the MIM bridge, but if it is not steel and has cast saddles like Squiers do, this may be a problem. Dissimilar metals, my brass saddle bridge was tight until I ran a tap through to clean the threads and lubed the screws with candle wax.
The screws should never be hard to turn, even under tension. New steel saddles are like $15 if you want to change them. Vintage Fender threaded are a good choice.
Otherwise, you may have the wrong Allen. I can't figure out why they are so difficult to turn that they keep stripping, if they do indeed turn, other than the above problems.
The screws should never be hard to turn, even under tension. New steel saddles are like $15 if you want to change them. Vintage Fender threaded are a good choice.
Otherwise, you may have the wrong Allen. I can't figure out why they are so difficult to turn that they keep stripping, if they do indeed turn, other than the above problems.
Okay, so how do I make sure I have the right wrentch? Will I need sighted assistance to figure that out (I'm blind)?
Did the wrench come with your bass? If it did, maybe you are not pushing it far enough in the socket. When it is in, it should be a tight fit with no wiggle room, not a tiny bit. In fact the shaft should bend rather than the key wiggle in It's socket.
As well, the screw may wiggle a bit in It's threads making it difficult to tell. I wish I could help more.
If you can order a wrench with replacement saddles, you can be pretty sure that it's correct...a vendor should be able to match them. I would think that one like Stew-Mac which provides tools as well as parts could help.
The note about fully inserting the wrench is really important - it should be snug to almost tight when inserted into each set screw. if not fully inserted into the recess, it tends to strip the screws.
If you need a bridge, here's a link to a $24 Gotoh bridge at Stew-Mac which mounts with 5 screws and should fit:
Invalid Link Removed
I'm sure that if you explained the situation, they'd find a correct allen wrench and ship it with the bridge.
