Suggestions/recommendations on choosing the right capacitors and potentiometers.

[stanleybass]

Hi everyone. I'm about to upgrade my alder bass with maple fretboard (which sounds already quite bring even acoustically).
Therefore I got a set of Seymour Duncan SJB-3 pickups and Darkglass tone capsule preamp.
The sound I'm looking for is a really growly and gritty one. With a possibility to get deep and full lows when needed.
The planned layout is:
- Neck volume,
- Bridge volume,
- Tone,
- Toggle to switch between passive and active modes,
- Bass control,
- Stacked control for low mids and high mids. For my volume and tone potentiometers what value should I go for?
250k or 500k? And why?
And then what capacitors to go for?
0.022uF or 0.033uF or 0.047uF? And why?

 

[stanleybass]

Seems no one can share any thoughts on that

 

[gtirard]

Seems no one can share any thoughts on that

Yeah, I was following this thread because I'm also interested, but no luck.

Let's work… We should find some useful comments in previous thread using the search tool.

 

[gtirard]

I've changed my mind, instead of searching on TB I've asked to Chat GTP:

what are the different possible caps values for the tone control of a bass?

The tone control of a bass guitar typically uses capacitors in conjunction with a potentiometer (pot) to adjust the treble frequencies. The capacitor value affects how the high frequencies are filtered and determines the cutoff point for the tone control. The larger the capacitance, the lower the frequency at which the filter starts to roll off.


Here are some common capacitor values used for tone control on bass guitars, along with their typical effects:

1. 0.1 µF (microfarads)​

• Typical Use: This is a common value for bass guitars, especially on passive circuits.
• Effect: Provides a moderate high-pass filter. It's not too bright and gives a subtle reduction in treble frequencies when rolled off.
• Application: Standard for many passive basses, especially in the Fender Jazz Bass and Precision Bass designs.

2. 0.047 µF (microfarads)​

• Typical Use: A bit more subtle than 0.1 µF.
• Effect: A gentler roll-off of high frequencies, often used to keep the tone a bit warmer. Some players prefer this when they don’t want the treble to be cut off too sharply.
• Application: Common in many vintage basses and guitars, often used in Fender-style basses for a smooth, rounded tone.

3. 0.022 µF (microfarads)​

• Typical Use: More common in guitar circuits but also used on basses for a more pronounced treble cut.
• Effect: Tighter and more focused high-end reduction. This will cut off more of the treble and provide a warmer, less “zingy” sound.
• Application: Seen in some bass circuits or when players want a more vintage or darker tone.

4. 0.0047 µF (microfarads) or smaller​

• Typical Use: Rare in basses, but sometimes used for specific tonal shaping.
• Effect: Very subtle treble roll-off, which may only affect the highest frequencies (and in some cases, it may be almost imperceptible until the tone control is turned down significantly).
• Application: Used for specific tonal shaping in highly customized or experimental setups.

5. 0.2 µF to 0.33 µF​

• Typical Use: Larger capacitors are often used for a more extreme roll-off.
• Effect: Provides a much more aggressive cut to the higher frequencies, resulting in a very smooth and bass-heavy sound.
• Application: Sometimes used for bass players who prefer a very mellow, smooth tone with reduced high-end (great for jazz, dub, or old-school styles).

Notes:​

• Capacitor Type: The type of capacitor (e.g., ceramic, polyester, paper-in-oil) can also slightly influence tone, but the capacitor value has the most significant impact on how much treble is rolled off.
• Tone Control Interaction: The value of the tone capacitor works in conjunction with the resistance of the tone pot. A higher value capacitor will tend to cut more treble, while a lower value will keep more of the high end.

Most basses with passive tone controls will typically use one of these values (especially 0.1 µF or 0.047 µF), but there’s no one-size-fits-all answer. Experimenting with different capacitors can be a great way to find the ideal tonal balance for your particular instrument and style of playing!

 

[gtirard]

what are the different possible caps values for the tone control of a bass?

The most common potentiometer values used for tone and volume controls in bass and guitar circuits are 250kΩ and 500kΩ, but there are other values and variations depending on the specific needs of the instrument, its tone, and the type of pickup system being used.


Here's a breakdown of the most common potentiometer values and their typical applications:

1. 250kΩ Pots​

• Typical Use: This is the most common value for passive guitar tone and volume controls, especially in instruments with single-coil pickups or passive systems.
• Effect: The lower resistance (250kΩ) allows more high frequencies to pass through the circuit, which makes the tone sharper and brighter.
• Application:
  • Guitars: Common for single-coil pickups like those in Fender Stratocasters, Telecasters, and other similar guitars.
  • Bass: Sometimes used in basses with single-coil pickups (like Jazz Basses) or for players who prefer a slightly brighter, more articulate tone.
  • Volume Control: In basses with passive pickups, a 250kΩ pot can sometimes be used to preserve the brightness and clarity of the instrument.

2. 500kΩ Pots​

• Typical Use: More commonly used in electric basses and humbucking pickups on guitars.
• Effect: The higher resistance (500kΩ) allows more low-end frequencies to pass through the circuit, making the sound slightly warmer and fuller, with more clarity in the mids and highs. It helps preserve the tonal character of humbuckers or bass pickups, which tend to be darker and less bright than single-coils.
• Application:
  • Guitars: Common in guitars with humbucking pickups (like Gibson Les Paul, SG, or humbucker-equipped Stratocasters). It helps to preserve the clarity and brightness of humbuckers, which are naturally darker-sounding.
  • Basses: Common in active pickups or passive humbuckers, especially in basses that are designed to be more modern, punchy, and full-bodied, like those from Music Man, Ibanez, and some Fender models.
  • Volume Control: 500kΩ pots are often used in basses with humbuckers or active electronics, helping to maintain brightness and clarity when adjusting volume.

3. 1MΩ (1,000kΩ) Pots​

• Typical Use: Less common but sometimes used in certain instruments, particularly those designed for very bright or crisp sounds.
• Effect: The very high resistance (1MΩ) allows even more high frequencies to pass through the circuit, making the sound even brighter than a 500kΩ pot.
• Application: Occasionally used in certain custom or experimental setups, or on very bright-sounding pickups like in some older Fender-style guitars or instruments with piezo pickups.

4. 100kΩ Pots​

• Typical Use: Rare, but can be used for specific tonal shaping or in particular active electronics.
• Effect: Slightly less bright than 250kΩ but still quite responsive, providing a mild roll-off of high frequencies.
• Application: Can be found in some active pickup systems (where the preamp circuit is designed to handle higher resistance values), or in certain low-output passive pickups.

5. 25kΩ Pots​

• Typical Use: These are commonly used for active electronics and in some bass guitar circuits where low-resistance potentiometers are required to match the impedance of active preamps or active pickups.
• Effect: Provides a greater roll-off of highs and is typically used to prevent excess treble in active circuits. They help to keep the output from becoming too bright or harsh when adjusting the volume or tone.
• Application: Active basses (like those with onboard preamps, such as Music Man Stingray, or some modern Ibanez basses) often use 25kΩ pots for both tone and volume.

6. Other Potentiometer Types​

• Linear vs. Logarithmic: Potentiometers for tone and volume controls are often logarithmic (audio taper) to provide a more gradual and usable range for human ears. However, linear taper pots can be used in some specialized circuits, though they are more commonly found in situations where a more consistent change is required (like with tone control in active circuits).
  • Audio Taper (Logarithmic): Most common for tone and volume controls, as they match the way our ears perceive changes in volume or tone. A small change in the pot's setting results in a more noticeable change in sound.
  • Linear Taper: Sometimes used for tone controls on certain active circuits or for specific tonal adjustments, but it's less common in passive systems.

Summary of Common Potentiometer Values:​

• 250kΩ: Typically used for passive single-coil pickups or basses, provides a brighter tone.
• 500kΩ: Common for humbucker-equipped guitars or basses, provides a fuller, warmer tone.
• 1MΩ: Very bright, used occasionally in custom or experimental setups.
• 100kΩ: Sometimes used in active systems, between 250kΩ and 500kΩ in brightness.
• 25kΩ: Common for active pickups or preamp systems in basses.

In Practice:​

• Tone control: If you prefer a brighter, sharper tone, a 250kΩ pot works well. If you want a warmer, fuller sound, a 500kΩ pot may be a better choice.
• Volume control: Similar to tone, the volume control will also respond differently depending on whether it's a 250kΩ or 500kΩ pot. A 250kΩ pot will generally have more pronounced changes in volume at lower settings, while a 500kΩ pot will give a slightly smoother volume sweep, especially for darker or fuller-sounding instruments like humbucker-equipped basses.

Ultimately, the choice of potentiometer value will depend on the type of pickups, the tonal characteristics you’re after, and whether you're working with a passive or active system!

 

[gtirard]

Many of my friends tell me to avoid using AI for ethics reasons, but each time I try I realize it's very impressive. It's like buying on Amazon or Ebay: I prefer to avoid them because I don't want to contribute to the disappearance of classic boutiques, but sometimes I'm super tempted.

Beware though: Chat GPT is based on a language model, it doesn't tell the truth, it tells what is most statistically porbable.

 

[ctmullins]

The pot values for the Tone Capsule are as specified by DarkGlass. Period. End of story.

The pot values for your volume and tone, since they will come before the Tone Capsule (necessarily, otherwise two volumes isn’t possible), are therefore typical of passive circuits. Either 250kOhm or 500kOhm. The 500 will give a slightly brighter tone. The 500 will have a different “sweep” behavior when used for the tone pot. You may prefer audio taper or you may prefer linear taper; both are valid choices.

Capacitor value is also personal preference. A higher value will have a lower starting frequency. When your tone knob is full up the cap does nothing.

 

[srosenthal13]

1. 250kΩ Pots​

• Effect: The lower resistance (250kΩ) allows more high frequencies to pass through the circuit, which makes the tone sharper and brighter.

2. 500kΩ Pots​

• Effect: The higher resistance (500kΩ) allows more low-end frequencies to pass through the circuit, making the sound slightly warmer and fuller, with more clarity in the mids and highs. It helps preserve the tonal character of humbuckers or bass pickups, which tend to be darker and less bright than single-coils.

3. 1MΩ (1,000kΩ) Pots​

• Effect: The very high resistance (1MΩ) allows even more high frequencies to pass through the circuit, making the sound even brighter than a 500kΩ pot.

I don't know a whole lot about electronics, but I like to think I know my way around reading words. Something isn't right with either #2 or #3. Am I wrong, or is that a direct contradiction? (Wouldn't be the first time AI hallucinated something.)

 

[ctmullins]

I don't know a whole lot about electronics, but I like to think I know my way around reading words. Something isn't right with either #2 or #3. Am I wrong, or is that a direct contradiction? (Wouldn't be the first time AI hallucinated something.)

You're right. 250 is darker than 500, and 500 is darker than 1M.

 

[srosenthal13]

You're right. 250 is darker than 500, and 500 is darker than 1M.

Thanks for the sanity check. And remember: No 9000 series computer has ever made an error.

 

[gtirard]

Yes, as I said, AI is based on language models, it just outputs a sequence of statistically probable words, not truth or even coherent content.
We think it "hallucinates" sometimes because we expect more than we should.
Sometimes it's a time saver, sometimes not. But when I made the test, nobody had yet replied to OP.
But it's like social media (if you see what I mean), it's sometimes useful to have human referees on hand to check facts (OK, maybe am I getting too political, I stop there).

Thanks for the fact checking

 

[Viktor von Doom]

And remember: No 9000 series computer has ever made an error.

"250k my arse, HAL" - Dave

 

[Sycoholic]

Hi everyone. I'm about to upgrade my alder bass with maple fretboard (which sounds already quite bring even acoustically).
Therefore I got a set of Seymour Duncan SJB-3 pickups and Darkglass tone capsule preamp.
The sound I'm looking for is a really growly and gritty one. With a possibility to get deep and full lows when needed.
The planned layout is:
- Neck volume,
- Bridge volume,
- Tone,
- Toggle to switch between passive and active modes,
- Bass control,
- Stacked control for low mids and high mids. For my volume and tone potentiometers what value should I go for?
250k or 500k? And why?
And then what capacitors to go for?
0.022uF or 0.033uF or 0.047uF? And why?

Something you might find helpful is a kit sold by a Youtuber. It has cables and different drop capacitors so you can test which one you like. Basically don't solder in yours or unsolder one side, and hook the jumper leads to the cap and to the pots. You can then change caps out until you can't stand it anymore and settle on one vs the other. I just stumbled on it yesterday, and then today chasing down some thoughts on fixing my tone stumbled upon this thread. Thought since it's not too old I'd add my 2 cents. Orange Drop Capacitor Test Kit