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Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by sedan_dad, May 19, 2007.
can you go into this with more detail? sounds interesting.
The SVP-CL or SVP-PRO: you should plug into the front and take the pre-amp out signal and go right into the Power Amp in on the the Classic. You are basically feeding a pre-amp signal straight into the Tube Power section.
The SVP-CL and SVP-PRO, everyone, please read the manuals. These are two different beasts, the EQ points and overall knob layout are quite different from one another. Plus, there are descriptions of what each pre-amp is designed off of in each manual.
The SVP-CL is ONE CHANNEL of the original SVT pre, using sections of 12AX7 and 12AU7 to replace the harder to get 12DW7 and 6C4 tubes. The 12DW7 was half one and half the other, so it makes sense.
The SVT-CL is different from either the SVP-CL or the original SVT.
Yes it is quite confusing, which I told them it would be.....
....thanks guys....that answered MY questions anyhow.
Oh, gearhead, et al, if I go from pre to back of SVT, will leaving the pre tubes in the SVt without any signal, would that hurt anything?
The Pre-amp tubes not getting a signal will be just fine. The power amp input on the back bypasses the pre-amp signal. Power tubes have to exert power and must always have load connected them. Pre-amp tubes just do tone and no power.
There is MUCH more scientific info to what I said, but the principle of the matter is true.
Well Williamsburgjim, I'm waiting for you to try it out and give us the low down between the SVT-CL as a stand alone amp compaired with useing a SVP-CL preamp into the poweramp of the SVT.
We're all watching you dude.
Sedan, youmakinme work buddy.....
Don't think of it as work as much as traillazeing.
Well, Sedan, or can I call you dad(?)
I won't be able to compare it to the VR, but when I do try it, my guess it would be almost negligable when run flat. However, because of all the tonal variations to that pre (and they are very noticable) I'm sure it will be an enhancement to tone shaping, particularly for those who own passive basses.
BTW, if you get one, go pick-up a Carvin empty r600 head case, which is a two space rack head, and stick the pre and a rack tuner in there. There's a freebe for you
i absolutely love my SVP-CL. i dropped in some high gain JJ tubes and all of a sudden i have the EXACT sound i've always wanted.
with that said, this wonderful box of tone mutes itself on occassion. it'll drop out, the little red light that indicates clip or mute turns on. a second or two later, the light goes out and the sound comes on. it's enough to make a man insane. i've got a SWR IOD in the same rack as a back up. as gnarly and insane as the SWR sounds, it's not my Ampeg.
i know this is a problem that several people have had.
Are you blocking the vents on the SVP-CL? You should have at least one rack space above and below this unit for air to move. Sounds like it overheats, shuts down, cools off, and turns back on. Let it breathe!
i'll double check that. i'm pretty sure it only has vents on the top. when it's in the rack there's a single empty rack space above it. i've also just placed it on top of the rack with the same results. my power amp vents out of the front and back.
yes, you have to leave a empty space above the SVP-CL to let the tubes vent or it will go into thermal protection (I think) - I haven't seen the problem you have - hopefully because I do have the empty space above.
I replaced the GT 12ax7's with some NOS GE tubes from the early 60's - they are much warmer and produce a real nice "click" that was missing from the GT's. I'm going to replace the 12au7 tubes with Mullards and that should really warm it up. the GT's are OK but are usually the current production russian tubes.
I tried some old Sov-Tek tubes that were nice but they were not a matched set so I didn't leave them in for long.
Someone mentioned turning the master volume up full and adjusting the overall output via the gain. I have not tried this but that may be the trick to getting this preamp to deliver the sound at volume without distortion. I have been disappointed with the amount of overdrive at high volume - but the clip light never comes on unless I switch out the -10db pad. I have the gain set to 3:00 but no light, however I do believe that it is overdriving at that level.
Does anyone else notice that the clip light does not come on until you crank the gain way up if the -10db pad is active?
I find this strange... with mine, it's very clean throughout the gain knobs range (a little fuzzy when dimed and I smack the hell out of the lowest string... still usable tone though).
And yeah... with the pad on, that's also the only place I get a clip light (but with no audible fuzz).
..yeah my clip light doesn't come on, only when I use one of my basses (Roscoe) with 18v pups. I'll mess with it, but I remember having to turn the gain way up to get it to clip. I haven't tried having to use the pad button though.
BTW, last night at rehearsal (I use it direct into the pa for some rehearsals/gigs cause I'm lazy) I keep the first selector on 4 always and the second mid range on 1, but changed the mid range to 3 (440hz I think) and wow, a whole nother bass tone. That thing is like having about 3 different basses as far as sound shaping pickups go....!
Others have said it, I think Ampeg has missed the mark on discontinuing those pre's.
You're right, I'm very happy to own an SVP-CL.
I almost want to buy another one . . .
I use StingRays w/the Gain set at 3 and hardly
ever see that clip light.
Ok, just a heads-up; I promise I will a/b them together v. standalone (SVP CL v. SVTCL) and report back. I have a 4 day weekend (and a couple gigs) so there should be an opportunity. Hey, being a busy bachelor again after 15 years of marrage...
Thanks .I'll be waiting to hear what you have to say.
I got to tell you though,I played a outdoor "Bike Night" last night and my Classic was sounding great.
"Williamsburg" as in Virginia?
I've been there and it's way cool.
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