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SVT 8x10 cab tolex...

Ultimately it would depend on how you approached the recovering. If it was me, I would want 3 yards of tolex, assuming that it was 54"W product.
Thanks! So, as i've never do the job, maybe 4 yards for each cab (yes it's 54" wide) can do the job? I've check some ways to do it, think that overlap a bit and cut threw will be the best way to do it. I have 2 to do, don't want to miss my shot! ahah! Thanks again!
 
If found that fliptops isn't the best place to buy tolex. They can't cut a straight line and you wind up getting less usable material than you need. They've done this to me twice. In the US, both Invalid Link Removed and Mojo are worth checking out.
Ok!! I was’nt aware of that! Do you have a particular tolex to propose (an item number at AES or Mojo) to match near exactly what a SVT was looking like in 1977?
 
Thanks! So, as i've never do the job, maybe 4 yards for each cab (yes it's 54" wide) can do the job? I've check some ways to do it, think that overlap a bit and cut threw will be the best way to do it. I have 2 to do, don't want to miss my shot! ahah! Thanks again!

4 yards for each cabinet should be more than enough. If you are really set on tolexing the cabinets rather than using a product like Duratex, overlapping and cutting thru the tolex is the way to go. Here is a drawing that shows how I had figured the tolex:

SVT tolex.jpg


Also, I built an SVT-810E back in 2014. There is a thread somewhere here on TB where I documented the build, and part of that process included tolexing the cabinet. Here is a PDF of just the tolexing steps from that thread. There are a few steps that didn't get documented but hopefully you will find it helpful.
 

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4 yards for each cabinet should be more than enough. If you are really set on tolexing the cabinets rather than using a product like Duratex, overlapping and cutting thru the tolex is the way to go. Here is a drawing that shows how I had figured the tolex:

View attachment 4335935

Also, I built an SVT-810E back in 2014. There is a thread somewhere here on TB where I documented the build, and part of that process included tolexing the cabinet. Here is a PDF of just the tolexing steps from that thread. There are a few steps that didn't get documented but hopefully you will find it helpful.
WOW!!!!! Thanks a million!!! O appreciate a lot!!! Dominic
 
Ok!! I was’nt aware of that! Do you have a particular tolex to propose (an item number at AES or Mojo) to match near exactly what a SVT was looking like in 1977?

If you order the 54” fliptops product, specify that they cut a straight line. I do like the impression pattern that they currently have and is closest to the original. Also specify that they ship it in a tube.

Ampeg Replacement Amp Covering for 1967-1980 By The Yd - Product Details

Mojo sells one that is 54” wide. It looks very good.
British Style Black Levant Tolex 54" Wide

I use black marshall levant. It’s a similar weight and looks good. You can obtain a sample from antique electronics. Note, the Antique electronics Marshall one is only 50” wide. It doesn’t match Mark’s layout.

Invalid Link Removed
 
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If you order the 54” fliptops product, specify that they cut a straight line. I do like the impression pattern that they currently have and is closest to the original. Also specify that they ship it in a tube.

Ampeg Replacement Amp Covering for 1967-1980 By The Yd - Product Details

Mojo sells one that is 54” wide. It looks very good.
British Style Black Levant Tolex 54" Wide

I use black marshall levant. It’s a similar weight and looks good. You can obtain a sample from antique electronics. Note, the Antique electronics Marshall one is only 50” wide. It doesn’t match Mark’s layout.

Invalid Link Removed
thanks very much!!! I apreciate!
 
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WOW!!!!! Thanks a million!!! O appreciate a lot!!! Dominic

It might not be obvious in the instructions I posted but I used a piece of aluminum angle (1.75" inside dimension) as a straight edge for making the thru cuts. The L-shape of the angle makes it easy to keep the cuts the same distance from the edge of the cabinet. The size of the angle isn't real critical - you just don't want to have the cut too close to the cabinet edge. On pages 25 & 26 you will see I used blue tape wherever two cuts would be intersecting. That allowed me to first use a pen to mark where the cuts would meet. That way I would know where to stop the cuts. Another handy tool that I use a lot is a pair of flush cutting pliers. They are useful for certain trimming cuts, like those that will happen at the angle locations on the sides. A small hammer is also useful for tapping seams like that closed and smoothing out their curve.

IMG_4821.jpg
 
It might not be obvious in the instructions I posted but I used a piece of aluminum angle (1.75" inside dimension) as a straight edge for making the thru cuts. The L-shape of the angle makes it easy to keep the cuts the same distance from the edge of the cabinet. The size of the angle isn't real critical - you just don't want to have the cut too close to the cabinet edge. On pages 25 & 26 you will see I used blue tape wherever two cuts would be intersecting. That allowed me to first use a pen to mark where the cuts would meet. That way I would know where to stop the cuts. Another handy tool that I use a lot is a pair of flush cutting pliers. They are useful for certain trimming cuts, like those that will happen at the angle locations on the sides. A small hammer is also useful for tapping seams like that closed and smoothing out their curve.

View attachment 4336153
many thanks again for your time!! I appreciate a lot!!!
 
It might not be obvious in the instructions I posted but I used a piece of aluminum angle (1.75" inside dimension) as a straight edge for making the thru cuts. The L-shape of the angle makes it easy to keep the cuts the same distance from the edge of the cabinet. The size of the angle isn't real critical - you just don't want to have the cut too close to the cabinet edge. On pages 25 & 26 you will see I used blue tape wherever two cuts would be intersecting. That allowed me to first use a pen to mark where the cuts would meet. That way I would know where to stop the cuts. Another handy tool that I use a lot is a pair of flush cutting pliers. They are useful for certain trimming cuts, like those that will happen at the angle locations on the sides. A small hammer is also useful for tapping seams like that closed and smoothing out their curve.

View attachment 4336153

Ah jeez, that's smart... wish I knew this when I tolex'd my last cabinet. Would have made things look nicer!
 
It might not be obvious in the instructions I posted but I used a piece of aluminum angle (1.75" inside dimension) as a straight edge for making the thru cuts. The L-shape of the angle makes it easy to keep the cuts the same distance from the edge of the cabinet. The size of the angle isn't real critical - you just don't want to have the cut too close to the cabinet edge. On pages 25 & 26 you will see I used blue tape wherever two cuts would be intersecting. That allowed me to first use a pen to mark where the cuts would meet. That way I would know where to stop the cuts. Another handy tool that I use a lot is a pair of flush cutting pliers. They are useful for certain trimming cuts, like those that will happen at the angle locations on the sides. A small hammer is also useful for tapping seams like that closed and smoothing out their curve.

View attachment 4336153

Thanks Blue. You're very generous, sharing your knowledge and experience. Much appreciated.
 
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If found that fliptops isn't the best place to buy tolex. They can't cut a straight line and you wind up getting less usable material than you need. They've done this to me twice. In the US, both Invalid Link Removed and Mojo are worth checking out.
Hey!! How are you? Look at this picture and tell me where i’ve ordered my grill cloth......
 

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here are some pictures of my actual work of restoration for both 8x10 cabs! 70% of the job os done
Fliptops at the top of their game! Don’t know why they do such a bad job.
and worst part of this: the frame is actually in the right position to have aligned the line thread in the grill cloth with the frame!!! I don’t know what happen when the manufacturer did the grill cloth, but the machine were completly off and not aligned!!! I’ve ordered 1/2 meter over, i will be very short for the 2 cabs.......
 
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here are some pictures of my actual work of restoration for both 8x10 cabs! 70% of the job os done

and worst part of this: the frame is actually in the right position to have aligned the line thread in the grill cloth with the frame!!! I don’t know what happen when the manufacturer did the grill cloth, but the machine were completly off and not aligned!!! I’ve ordered 1/2 meter over, i will be very short for the 2 cabs.......

I’ve seen the fabric twist before. Sometimes you can stretch it into alignment but I usually cut around it. At the same time the wood frames can be out of square, as can be vintage cabinets.