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Hmmm, looks like I need to study up some more then. I was looking more at the fs and Xmax. Maybe I should phrase it like this: If you had an SWR Silverado Special from the late '90s (looks like 1997), and had a blown speaker, what would you replace the 2 speakers with?
Back to your comment about the mid character being the opposite, is that a bad thing, if you don't really like over pronounced mids? Granted, I understand it goes back to the speaker was chosen for the specific cabinet, so maybe this amp doesn't do the lower, smoother thump, that I would prefer in a bass amp. Maybe the LFA being lower mid would be better for me... or, maybe it would totally jack up the sound.
Fs and Xmax have virtually nothing to do with the voicing of the speaker. They in small part have to do with the <200Hz performance but this is only in conjunction with the design of the enclosure itself.
Of the Beta 12A-2 and the Delta 12A, would you edge towards the Delta because of the higher power handling ability (400 w on the Delta versus the 250 w of the Beta), and 2.5" voice coil of the Delta over the 2" coil on the Beta? I believe that you had previously mentioned that the 2" versus 2.5" voice coil thing isn't that big of a deal, but since the original is 2.5" it makes sense.
Thank you! I thought I saw that someone used rubber cement in a quick search. If I do attempt to fix the speaker I'll definitely look up the proper way to do it. That, or take it to a speaker guy for a real repair.
Either might be better, I haven't run the numbers to verify the LF performance. The size of the VC is just the size, it doesn't have to be any larger than large enough.
I know I didn't. The guy at Eminence did say that they were the closest to what came in the amp. What numbers do you look at for low frequency performance?
Not sure if I came to any conclusion, but I plugged a guitar cable into the amp's input jack, and with one meter lead on the sleeve of the cable and the other lead on the bottom lug (black wire) I have ~.4 ohm, and sleeve to top lug (red wire) is ~3.6 ohm. Then I plugged a speaker cable into the ext speaker output, and sleeve to sleeve on the two cables I'm getting ~.4 ohm. If I switch the red and black wires on the 2 lugs I am getting the same reading. Either I have no idea what I'm doing, which is highly likely, or this isn't telling me anything I know how to interpret. I played through the bass amp with the wires both ways and can't notice any difference in sound, nor can I tell if the speaker cone is moving out (correct polarity) or moving in with either setting. Therefore, I think I will go with the black wire on bottom and the red wire on the top, since the bottom lug has a black wire soldered to it, while the top lug has a brownish color wire soldered to it. This way at least black is on black... if there's any sound logic behind that.
Yes, I agree. I guess a better question would be: If the sleeve of the cable plugged into the ext speaker jack is negative, and I touch the other meter lead on the lug with the black wire, which is also negative, should I get a higher or lower ohm reading, as both ways are showing continuity and resistance, just one more than the other (.4 ohm v 3.6 ohm)? My take is the terminal strip seems to be mounted to some type of crossover which is splitting the high and low frequencies. 2 lugs, for the low frequency, go directly to the 12" drivers, and 2 lugs go to the wires in the cab, which I thought (and maybe is) was a crossover, but think it's just a low frequency cutout that then feeds the horn.
That is my understanding as well. Maybe I'll put the meter on each lug and compare with ground, to see if that tells me anything. I can take the red and black wires connected to the speakers and tell with certainty which is positive and which is negative, but determining the positive and negative on the terminal strip on the board inside the amp is what I can't figure out.
