SX SPJ-62 Fretless conversion and neck refinish

[OldBluesGuy]

I was able to get the veneers trimmed down and sanded flush tonight and I'm very pleased with the results.

Trimming down the veneers:

The grain was running across the long side of the veneer so to trim the top of the veneers I was able to score them with an x-acto knife and snap off the excess:

The veneers didn't score as easily against the grain, so for the sides I used a couple of passes with my new .010" nut saw and snapped off the excess:

I sanded the veneers flush with 150 grit using the 12" radius block for the top of the fingerboard and steel fret leveler for the sides:

Closeup of the top:

And the side:

There's more sanding to be done, but I decided to leave that for another night.


obg

 

[poomwah]

obg, sorry about my hijack earlier, I should have also mentioned that you are doing and AMAZING job on that fretboard

 

[OldBluesGuy]

sorry for hijacking, but is the citrus strip safe for veneer tops? will it hurt binding? I have a schecter c-4 antique amber, and I want it to be black cherry. I'm afraid to strip it, in fear of damaging the binding or lifting the quilted top from the rest of the body wood.

Hey poomwah - no need to apologize. As to the safeness of Citristrip for veneer tops and binding, I'd be inclined to believe that it would be safe given my limited experience with the product. It works very slowly which allows for great control on how fast you remove the finish. However, I have no experience using it on a veneer or binding so you might be better served by polling some of the more experienced woodworkers and luthiers. Sorry I can't be of more assistance.

obg

 

[OldBluesGuy]

obg, sorry about my hijack earlier

Please think nothing of it. I'm happy to share what little knowledge and experience I have.

I should have also mentioned that you are doing and AMAZING job on that fretboard

Thank you for your kind words. It's my first attempt at a fretless conversion and I'm really pleased with how it's turning out.



obg

 

[kraigo]

Google:

http://www.citristrip.com/

I've only used it a little and never on a bass.

KO

 

[Fajah]

It's my first attempt at a fretless conversion and I'm really pleased with how it's turning out.

Excellent job on the defret so far. It certainly makes a big difference when you have the right tools. My lined fretless Douglas has been my "go to" bass since I defretted it.

 

[OldBluesGuy]

Google:

http://www.citristrip.com/

I've only used it a little and never on a bass.

KO

Thanks for sharing that link! Now I need to go fix all of my spelling errors!! That's what I get for assuming.


obg

 

[OldBluesGuy]

Excellent job on the defret so far. It certainly makes a big difference when you have the right tools. My lined fretless Douglas has been my "go to" bass since I defretted it.

Thanks! I can't wait to play this bass!


obg

 

[RedsFan75]

AWESOME JOB!

Tremendous pictures as well!!! My camera could never take such great shots.

If you're not real sure on the epoxy you might try superglue. It does a pretty good job.

Here's a Dan Erlwine article from Bassplayer on it.
http://www.bassplayer.com/article/superglue-savior/jun-06/20674

 

[Darkstrike]

Beautiful so far man!

 

[herndonbassist]

Thanks for the great thread! I'm debating doing this to an Austin P bass that I have...

 

[ashtray]

Question - why did you radius the bottom of the veneers? Didn't you saw/file the slots flat?

 

[kraigo]

Question - why did you radius the bottom of the veneers? Didn't you saw/file the slots flat?

A Warmoth neck that I put a nut in had a radiused slot. I presume that the frets are the same. If one already had the radius tool, why not just radius the veneers? It would probably be easier. Since I don't have the tool, I think I'd do what you're recommending - flatten the slot.

Why on earth would you want a radiused slot for the nut? It was the worst part of the whole process.

KO

 

[OldBluesGuy]

AWESOME JOB!

Tremendous pictures as well!!! My camera could never take such great shots.

If you're not real sure on the epoxy you might try superglue. It does a pretty good job.

Here's a Dan Erlwine article from Bassplayer on it.
http://www.bassplayer.com/article/superglue-savior/jun-06/20674

Thanks for sharing that - it was a great read. I feel less confidant about attempting the CA. I'm leaning towards the epoxy at the moment.

obg

 

[OldBluesGuy]

Beautiful so far man!

Thanks!

obg

 

[OldBluesGuy]

Thanks for the great thread! I'm debating doing this to an Austin P bass that I have...

You're very welcome. I highly recommend trying this if you're willing to risk the bass/neck. Hopefully I'll still be saying this once I get into the finishing phase of this project.



obg

 

[OldBluesGuy]

Question - why did you radius the bottom of the veneers? Didn't you saw/file the slots flat?

The fret slots were radiused. It was a lot easier to radius the bottom of the veneers.


obg

 

[Redd]

The fret slots were radiused. It was a lot easier to radius the bottom of the veneers.


obg

Man this was amazing! Very well done, and also a well made thread ;P but i must ask,

Im only fifteen and inexperienced in handwork, think i would be able to do this?

Assuming i have all the tools that is. (how much did it cost you all together anyway?)

again, very well done.

 

[kraigo]

Man this was amazing! Very well done, and also a well made thread ;P but i must ask,

Im only fifteen and inexperienced in handwork, think i would be able to do this?

Assuming i have all the tools that is. (how much did it cost you all together anyway?)

again, very well done.

www.stewmac.com.

Check this thread and get a list of tools together, then browse Stewart MacDonald for the items. They're pretty special purpose so there are few (or no) other places to check.

KO

 

[OldBluesGuy]

Man this was amazing! Very well done, and also a well made thread ;P but i must ask,

Im only fifteen and inexperienced in handwork, think i would be able to do this?

Assuming i have all the tools that is. (how much did it cost you all together anyway?)

again, very well done.

Thanks!

I think this can be accomplished by anyone willing to take the time to read all the great how-to threads on TB, take the time to do it carefully and and purchase the necessary tools and supplies.

My costs so far?

I already had the Citrisstrip, the Titebond, the soldering iron etc. For this project specifically I bought the following:

For the de-fret:
Fret nippers - $25 from Stew-Mac - MANDATORY
12" radius block - $15 from Stew-Mac - Optional but highly recommended
Fine bladed .010" nut saw - $9 from Stew-Mac - Optional (can be replaced with X-Acto saw)
.013" nut file - $15 Stew-Mac - Optional
Beech Veneers - $6 from Woodcraft
Various grades of sandpaper (100, 150, 320, 400) - ~$5 from Woodcraft

For the epoxy of the fingerboard and refinish of the neck
Various grades of sandpaper (600, 800, 1000, 1500) - ~$5 from Woodcraft
Watco Rub-on Poly - $15 from Woodcraft
System3 Mirror Coat - ~$35 from Woodcraft
Micro-mesh sanding pads (1500, 1800, 2400, 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, and 12000 grits) - $10 from Stew-Mac

And probably another $15 in assorted supplies - inexpensive paint brushes, applicators. I haven't priced out the products that I'll need to rub out and polish the epoxy yet either.

For me it's relatively inexpensive as I'll be using all of the tools repeatedly for other projects and the poly and epoxy will also be used on other projects so the actual cost for this project is less than the total of what I've shelled out for it.

Hope this is helpful.



obg