• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

SX SPJ-62 Fretless conversion and neck refinish

#63
BananaKing said:
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f169/MJWanless/DSCF0412.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f169/MJWanless/DSCF0440.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f169/MJWanless/DSCF0449.jpg

Those are all from my last project.
Click to expand...

Clean. I really like my current five string fretless (it was never a fretted. I'm debating doing my Yamaha BB300. I'm not sure that I should - I've got a nice fretless. The five string has a nice uncoated ebony board - a real warm, earthy tone. If I did the BB300 it'd be epoxied, bright, etc. I'm not sure if I should follow through with that or not. It's nice as a fretted, too.

KO
 
#67
Floridabwoy said:
hey... sorry about another question about the Citristrip... but will that stuff cut thru a polyurathane solid color? I would like to use the least abrasive stuff for a refinish project I am going to do.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Here's the blurb about the stripping gel from their site @ http://www.citristrip.com/:


"A powerful, industrial-strength remover. It is easy to use because it stays wet and active for up to 24 hours, allowing stripping of multiple layers in one step. It contains no methylene chloride, is non-caustic and is safe for indoor use. This special orange stripper has a pleasant citrus scent and is biodegradable. Use CITRISTRIP®’s all-purpose stripping gel to remove multiple layers of latex and oil-based paint, varnish, lacquer, enamel, polyurethane, shellac, acrylics and epoxy from wood, metal and masonry surfaces."​


Hope this answers your question. :)

obg
 
#69
OldBluesGuy said:
I agree. Very clean work! I'm getting 6'er GAS now!! Are those flats on there?


obg
Click to expand...

Totally random thread to pick, (you helped me out earlier with the prices and i really do appreciate that, i might do this to one of my basses :x well actually, i WILL do this to one of my basses :P) but i must ask, whats G.A.S?

I hear it on here a lot..:hiding:
 
#70
Gear Acquisition Syndrome. The compulsive need for different gear. In my experience the cure for GAS is to play more with the toys you've got. If I still really want something after six months it might be real, but most of the time I want something new because I haven't got time to play with the things I've got. It happens to golfers and the like as well. I've seen mothers who obsessively buy clothes for their kids because they're stressed at work.

Want new gear? Start writing songs and see if the feeling doesn't lessen to a large degree.

KO
 
#72
Kevin_BlueBASS said:
Looks great!
Thanks for posting!
Sorry but I have to hijack this, lol...
When I defret one of my basses, instead of using wood strips to fill the frets would liqiud wood filler work instead?
Thanks alot.
Cheers
:bassist:
Click to expand...

From what I've read the fillers can shrink on you when they dry. Why wouldn't you want to use the veneers? I got a pack of beech veneers from Woodcraft for 6 bucks - enough for 10 necks. You can get the same thing here from Woodcraft.com.

obg
 
#73
Kevin_BlueBASS said:
When I defret one of my basses, instead of using wood strips to fill the frets would liqiud wood filler work instead?
Click to expand...

I'll echo OBG's sentiment here. Filler will work but the results will not be good based on what I've seen. You'll get very sloppy looking lines and less structural integrity in the neck. Veneer is the way to go which is what I chose to use. Another option is styrene which hobby stores carry.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

My original concern with veneer was that the lines would get dirty over time since I was applying a pure lemon oil finish to the rosewood. Styrene would prevent this from happening. After a couple of months of daily use and gigging, I can say that the lines have not picked up any dirt at all and still look great.
 
#74
RedsFan75 said:
How are you reshaping it? That sounds interesting in itself?
Click to expand...

I'm actually in the middle of doing that with an SX neck, using a table belt sander to reprofile the back countour, as it is a bit thick. No need for citrus strip in that case since the belt sander obliterates several mm's of the finish and wood in the process...

I will put up some pictures later. :)
 
#75
OldBluesGuy said:
I agree. Very clean work! I'm getting 6'er GAS now!! Are those flats on there?


obg
Click to expand...
Thanks.

Nope. Those are roundwounds.

They are a mix of singles due to the fact that I want really light strings and it's also an extra long scale bass.

Kevin_BlueBASS said:
Looks great!
Thanks for posting!
Sorry but I have to hijack this, lol...
When I defret one of my basses, instead of using wood strips to fill the frets would liqiud wood filler work instead?
Thanks alot.
Cheers
:bassist:
Click to expand...

I used wood filler on the first de-fret project I did and It really didn't look all that good.

I'm sure some people get great results, but I had nothing but crap luck.

Hopefully, if you decide to go that route, you'll get better luck.
 
#78
A quick update...

I've been working on refinishing the neck and have made a little progress with the poly finish for the back and headstock. I've sanded the entire neck with 150, 220, 320, 400 & 600 grit using the 12" radius block for the fingerboard and a block and/or freehand for the headstock and neck. I forgot to get pictures of the fingerboard before taping it off, but it looks amazing after sanding with the 600.

I have 3 coats of satin rub-on poly applied to the neck and just got the first coat on the headstock. I'm off now to Woodcraft to pick up the System 3 Mirror Coat and hope to start applying that to the FB tomorrow.

Pics:
sx_spj-62_neck_refinish_3_coats_-3.jpg


sx_spj-62_neck_refinish_3_coats_-2.jpg


sx_spj-62_neck_refinish_3_coats_-1.jpg


sx_spj-62_neck_refinish_3_coats_sat.jpg


:)

obg
 
#80
FWIW, I used Tru-Oil (gun stock oil available at gun shops) on a Warmoth neck. I was pleased with the results and would happily recommend it to others. I'm not at all a gun guy, so it does make me a little hesitant to go into the shops, but it worked very well. If I redo the Yamaha BB300's neck, that's probably what I'll use, especially since I already have a bottle of the oil.

KO
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back