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SX Ursa 6 pickup replacemen????

Discussion in 'Pickups & Electronics [BG]' started by Laklandlover, Feb 10, 2013.


  1. Laklandlover

    Laklandlover Supporting Member

    Mar 22, 2008
    Los Angeles, CA BABY
    Hi Everyone,

    I am contemplating changing the pickups on my SX Ursa 6 but the string spacing is a little narrow. I kind of like how they sound but there is always room for sonic improvement. Does anyone have any suggestion?

    photo3.

    thanks for the help!

    James
     
  2. FunkMetalBass

    FunkMetalBass

    Aug 5, 2005
    Phoenix, Arizona 85029
    Endorsing Artist: J.C. Basses
    Nordstrand NJ6SE or the NJ6SV's. Marvelous jazz pickups and Carey can build them according to your string spacing.
     
  3. Roy Vogt

    Roy Vogt Supporting Member

    Sep 20, 2000
    Nashville,TN
    Endorsing Artist: Kiesel, Carvin, Accuracy, Hotwire, Conklin Basses, DNA, Eden
  4. Laklandlover

    Laklandlover Supporting Member

    Mar 22, 2008
    Los Angeles, CA BABY
    Thanks for the input. Please I need more feedback.

    Thanks,

    James
     
  5. frrrosty

    frrrosty

    Jan 18, 2012
    I realize this is an old thread, but google still returns it. I just purchased an SX Ursa 2 MN 6 Ash NA, 6 string Bass.

    SX Ursa 2 MN 6 Ash NA 6 String Bass - RondoMusic.com

    Regarding upgrades, this would be a hard one to replace the pickups, they are quite a bit shorter than the Aguilar and Nostrand, so they would need to be custom. The up side is that the stock pickups are pretty good, and a better approach might be to do a Neodymium magnet upgrade, just consult professor utube.

    SX Ursa 2 MN 6 Stock pickups:
    Neck: 3.96" (100.6mm)
    Bridge: 4.09375" (103.98mm)
    Aguilar and Nostrand are much bigger

    The electronics, on the other hand, are easily upgraded with the Audere preamp, $160:

    Audere Pro JZ3 VB 4B Chrome

    More important, the bridge needs to be moved 3/8" - 1/2" toward the tail. If you don't, the E & low B won't make intonation. This shouldn't come as a shock, Fender has been making the same error for 60 years, much to the delight of Leo Quan! You'll need to get some M3 x 50mm screws on ebay for the top 3 strings (Ace Hardware has up to 35mm, but no 50mm), the stock screws are not long enough to allow the re-positioning of the bridge. Then use the stock 45mm screws you remove from the top 3 strings, and use them for the lower 3 strings. Move the bridge back as far as possible while still keeping the set-screws for the high B in their channels.

    First, have a new set of strings ready, but don't install them yet. Set the intonation of the 4 higher strings. Use blue painter's tape, put a strip of tape on both sides of the bridge, keeping them straight and parallel as possible. They will be your guide for side-to-side positioning. Use a pencil and gently mark on the tape the position of the High B string saddle as accurately as u can. Remove the strings, remove the bridge. Install the M3 x 50mm screws. Screw the High B saddle so it's at the end of the channels, then position the bridge so the high B saddle lines up with the pencil mark.
    Be careful to err in the side of caution, and leave a 32nd of an inch of buffer space before the end of the channels, you DON'T want to run out of channel. This is crucial. Too much buffer space, and you will have a cramped Low B string. Not enough, and the High B won't make intonation without riding up out of the channels.
    Once you have the position you want, use a very small drill bit, by hand, twirl it in the screw hole in the bridge to mark the drilling spots. Remove the bridge, drill a very thin hole for one screw, this hole should be as deep as the screw will go, almost but not quite. We want the screws to be challenged by the wood, but not so much that it will split the wood. Use a slightly larger bit and drill just 1/16 into the hole, to shape the hole to the shank of the screw. Test the hole, ie install the bridge but just with the one screw, see if the screw is too tight, too loose, of just right. Adjust your method accordingly, and then drill the other holes.
    I start with one end screw, then the other ends screw. I install those screws, then drill the remaining 4.
    Use a vacuum & brush attachment constantly to remove the sawdust as you drill, so the sawdust doesn't scratch the finish or get into the electronics. Install the bridge and new strings, set your intonation, and Wala!

    15775116.

    15781512.

    That done, the bridge is excellent, identical to the Fender High Mass Bridge. If you replace it, it will need a wide one, 17mm spacing. The Kahler 2460-XW6 6 String Extra Wide Bass Slant Bridge would be excellent, and is one of the best bridges in existence. The ball-stop moves with the saddle, so you don't end up with the windings over the saddle, and the whole bridge is slanted to compensate for the longer B strings length requirements of 5 & 6 string basses. Awesome bridge, but it's $170, more than the bass!.

    https://www.kahlerusa.com/guitar-tr...-xw6-cx-6-string-extra-wide-bass-fixed-bridge

    All told, this is a great bass. Solid as hell, weights a good 12 lbs. The finish is perfect. The neck is straight and the frets are leveled

    The not so obvious DUAL TRUSS RODS are awesome. The bass came set up very well, just needed the intonation set on the lower 3 strings. When I couldn't get the B string to tune, I moved the bridge, and now it's dead on balls accurate.

    The sound is excellent right out of the box. The bass is 14-1/2" wide, so buy the case with it, it's the best deal in town. It's only $59, a good $20 cheaper than any generic case and be careful, most aftermarket standard bass cases will not accommodate the wide body of the Ursa2-6.

    My advise, for what it's worth, is to put in the Audere preamp, keep the pickups, keep the bridge, just move it back 1/2" toward the tail. Money might be better spend getting the frets crowned & dressed by a real pro. The result would be a truly excellent instrument for a whole lot less cabbage than a Warwick or Yamaha. Even without the dressing, though, it's definitely a playable bass. I had a Schecter Stiletto that cost twice what this bass does, but it's unplayable. The frets positions on the schecter are wrong, set intonation on the 12th fret and the fifth fret is out. And the Schecter neck is so thin it changes it's arc with the string tension, so it's impossible to tune. The SX Ursa2-6 has no such issues. The dual truss rods are a really nice touch. Outstanding bass.

    Fender_2011.
    2011 Fender DJB ; 2016 SX Ursa 2-6
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2017
    Nahguavkire likes this.