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SX Ursa 6-string Jazz bass

OK, on to the new backup, I took it to chior practice last night and it behaved, but I probably will raise the pups a bit more and the sustain is not as good as my main one. Interestingly, I expected the sustain to be pretty good because I put inserts in the neck (it wasn't planned that way, but I had to after I made an error on the first hole I drilled). I'm curious whether this body is one of the basswood ones or not. I can't really tell woods that well by sight but my first one is from the Alder period, so maybe that explains the sustain difference. Then again, I am of the opinion that the neck has more influence over tone and things than the body, so I'll never really know.

Nevertheless, I love ALL of my 2 6es (this from a guy who is mainly a 5 string player) and I do think that SX is missing some sales by not making the Ash version in sunburst (watch them come out with one now that I've shown them how sharp it looks!) but, I've got mine now, so I'm happy and done!

Basswood is lighter than Alder and softer. To my ear it gives a tone more rolled off in highs than alder (which is rolled off but I LIKE the alder tone). Basswood in general has a kind of "foofy" sound to me in passive basses. And being softer and more absorbing one would expect reduced sustain as well. People love the light weight of basswood, but I love the brighter tone of ash even though all my Ash SX are pretty heavy. But happily, wood is a pretty minor effect.

A bigger effect is the weird way that the parts in SX 6er seem to change! The 3 and 1/2 I have seem to vary from one to another. The first two I bought seemed significantly better than the third one and forth one, with pickups having lower output and generally not being quite the same. As you say it's almost as if they are doing prototypes and selling them! But that said, I must say that like you I LOVE my SX 6ers (even though my main axe these days is a G&L L2500 (5er).) The choice of having three of them in Freless, rounds and flats is simply wallowing in bass luxury!

And now instead of exchanging my Ash SX body (natural) for the burst one on my SX with rounds, I'm gassing for finding an SX neck for it and doing the blocks conversion on it. Kind of redundant, I know, but like you I'm really taken with having three identical sunburst 6ers.
 
Any recommended bridge replacements for the Ursa 2 6-strings?

Actually the bridge that comes on it isn't all that bad, but you have to drill out the B string hole. What I don't like about it is that when feeding strings through the anchor holes in the bridge they tend to scratch the finish by the bridge unless you are VERY careful (and I'm usually not very).

So I changed mine to these top loaders.

New Quick Release 6 String Modern Bass Bridge Chrome | eBay

They are some Chinese knock-off of an expensive bridge (Hipshot I think) like is on my Modulus. A number of places on Ebay have them. Prices vary, mine were just twenty something bucks each. Work great, look great (see avatar) Cheap. Chinese so fit the "handmade" SX perfectly. Best of all need no drilling and changing strings doesn't scratch finish. Love 'em. Machine work is just a tiny bit more ratty than the expensive version on my Modulus, but really not bad at all. Screw holes do not match original bridge but I didn't even bother to fill the old ones because none of the new ones lined up with the old ones.

Makes a great "final touch" on the SX 6er. I don't think it changes the tone or sustain at all. Just about spending a few bucks for looks kind of like my tort pickguard.

To install the new bridge first I intonated the bass perfectly with the original bridge. Then I put white artist tape along side the bridge and marked where saddle was set on C and on B strings. Then moved the saddles on the new bridge out near the end of the travel set to match the angle. Next used strings to center the new bridge so strings are spaced even on the fingerboard while keeping saddles aligned with the previous intonation marks. When Happy I marked the screw holes for installation of the new bridge. Works great.
 
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Just wanted to share a few family pics of all of my Ursa 2 6es:

IMGP3780.jpg


IMGP3781.jpg
 
These are literally a hair away from being my dream bass... never been able to get one with living in the UK, but Six string fendereque.... and for the price... Damn!

Actually more than a "hair". More like Three thousand dollars away (for a Low End LEJ 6 string that is about the same...except for build quality natch). I love my SX 6. The more I play them the more I'm sold on the 6 string Fenderesque thing.

As for getting one in the UK, never say never. Allow me to explain how "suction" works. Some years ago some psychologists got interested in how "connected" people were to each other. So they did this experiment. They got a bunch of world-wide telephone directories. They picked a bunch of names at random. They addressed letters to half the names. They then gave the letters to the people on the other half of the list. The instructions were you were to mail the letter to the person addressed if you were acquainted with them. If you did not know them, you were to mail the letter to a person you did know who you thought was most likely to know the person in question. And the next person got the same instructions. The researchers expected the letters to wander around among dozens of people before arriving at the destination. Much to their amazement the letters on average just went through 3 people! In other words you are just 3 people away from a connection to ANYONE on the planet!

The point being that you are just 3 people away from getting that SX 6. You only need to make the right connection.
 
Actually the bridge that comes on it isn't all that bad, but you have to drill out the B string hole. What I don't like about it is that when feeding strings through the anchor holes in the bridge they tend to scratch the finish by the bridge unless you are VERY careful (and I'm usually not very).

So I changed mine to these top loaders.

New Quick Release 6 String Modern Bass Bridge Chrome | eBay

They are some Chinese knock-off of an expensive bridge (Hipshot I think) like is on my Modulus. A number of places on Ebay have them. Prices vary, mine were just twenty something bucks each. Work great, look great (see avatar) Cheap. Chinese so fit the "handmade" SX perfectly. Best of all need no drilling and changing strings doesn't scratch finish. Love 'em. Machine work is just a tiny bit more ratty than the expensive version on my Modulus, but really not bad at all. Screw holes do not match original bridge but I didn't even bother to fill the old ones because none of the new ones lined up with the old ones.

Makes a great "final touch" on the SX 6er. I don't think it changes the tone or sustain at all. Just about spending a few bucks for looks kind of like my tort pickguard.

To install the new bridge first I intonated the bass perfectly with the original bridge. Then I put white artist tape along side the bridge and marked where saddle was set on C and on B strings. Then moved the saddles on the new bridge out near the end of the travel set to match the angle. Next used strings to center the new bridge so strings are spaced even on the fingerboard while keeping saddles aligned with the previous intonation marks. When Happy I marked the screw holes for installation of the new bridge. Works great.
I don't have much experience with replacing bridges, but I had the same issue you had with the B string, and I had a little trouble with intonation, so I kinda assumed they weren't good bridges. I might try that Quick Release bridge for kicks, since it's only $30.
 
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Heyyy... sooo... I've run into a bit of an issue with my ursa (I forget the model name - maple neck, sunburst finish.)
I left town for about two months. I left it in its gig bag, in a quasi temperature-controlled room (warmer than average, but not remarkably hot or humid.) When I got back, I got it out of its bag and noticed a finish bubble on its back. A big one. About 1" long and .5" wide. It was most definitely NOT there when I left. The poly seems to be holding, but I can push it down all the way to the wood like a keyboard key, and it springs right back up.
Since I've returned I've been keeping the room as controlled as possible (although the monsoons have made that somewhat difficult.) Has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas to keep it from spreading? I don't care if my instruments are pristine or not, but I don't want the whole back turning into one big balloon.
Thanks.
 
Heyyy... sooo... I've run into a bit of an issue with my ursa (I forget the model name - maple neck, sunburst finish.)
I left town for about two months. I left it in its gig bag, in a quasi temperature-controlled room (warmer than average, but not remarkably hot or humid.) When I got back, I got it out of its bag and noticed a finish bubble on its back. A big one. About 1" long and .5" wide. It was most definitely NOT there when I left. The poly seems to be holding, but I can push it down all the way to the wood like a keyboard key, and it springs right back up.
Since I've returned I've been keeping the room as controlled as possible (although the monsoons have made that somewhat difficult.) Has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas to keep it from spreading? I don't care if my instruments are pristine or not, but I don't want the whole back turning into one big balloon.
Thanks.

What about a small pin and a dab of superglue? Poke a hole through the finish and reattach it to the wood?

No idea if this will actually work.
 
What about a small pin and a dab of superglue? Poke a hole through the finish and reattach it to the wood?

No idea if this will actually work.

Might work? You should devise some way to clamp the bubble down. I had a similar thing happen though not precisely the same. I was wanting to convert one of my SX basses to fretless and Rondo was selling some fretless necks dirt cheap so I bought one. I put it on the bass and it wasn't bad. Had big black blocks and all. Well some time later I go to play the bass and it's buzzing and sounding all weird! I look closely and it seems the big black blocks (under the heavy poly) had somehow unglued and pushed the poly up in a large bubble not unlike that described by the OP. So I put clamps on the neck forcing the bubbles back down level again. I figured maybe the glue under pressure would hold this time. No such luck. It just bubbled up again. My solution wasn't much help here, because I just got our the steam iron and took the whole fingerboard off and replaced it with an ebony one. And of course I've loved it ever since. But that wasn't exactly a quick fix.
 
I got an Ursa 6 B stock a while back. It had some issues but nothing serious. I replaced the pickups with Duncan active soapbars (to match the ones on my main 5 string)
1443688644631.jpg
, made a new bridge, and also made a tortoiseshell pickguard (I hate white on sunburst). Very good value for money, IMO nearly equal to my Yamaha JP6 at less than a third the price.
 
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Thanks! The bridge was a lot of work to make, but I really like the results. I had two goals: to have the strings pass over the bridge saddles at more or less the
IMG_20151001_024004_293.jpg
same angle, and to have the whole assembly lock down rigidly to the body. The bridge saddles are modified 10 - 32 brass machine screws, locked down with hex nuts. It's much harder to adjust than a standard bridge, but since you only have to adjust it once, that's not a huge problem. The brass gives it a nice fat tone, and it stays in tune very well. have versions of this bridge on all my basses. Here's a closeup.