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Tech 21 Club

K....been reading through many Tech 21 posts/threads..LOTS of useful hints/tips/tricks...so THANKS!

For reasons not always due to the actual unit itself, I've been through a couple of PBDI's, a couple of RBI's, and I *think* I've arrived at a VT Bass (with the speaker sim switch...V1, V2?) and a VTDI on the pedal board (which drives the FOH/IEM set up I mostly use for one project, and I parallel out of the VTDI to a VTBass500 amp for when I use an amp/cab.

I do like the set up...but I do find that I twiddle a lot of the VTDI / Bass 500 knobs....messing with blend either about halfway / or as high as 3 o'clock, and either pushing Char and pulling mids, or vice-versa... The board chain is HPF - EBS multicomp - VT Bass - tuner - VTDI.

Still not sure I have the tone that's in my head, but going through all these posts I think has been helpful. For instance, learning that flat on the highs is around 9 o'clock....(never thought to A/B the whole thing to figure that out for myself----so THANKS!!!)---was always thinking there's way to much highs with the knob at noon. Find too that I like what the "bite" switch does, but it also adds way more highs than I normally like....so ya----d'uh....roll off the highs some....
And--- right now I'm usually dialing in a little breakup on the VTDI, and then adding the VTBass to get that little extra dirt here and there. Someone on here though suggested to put the VT bass before the comp (actually a limiter in his case) to take advantage of the VTBass' processing of levels of touch----having more dirt when one digs in. Gonna try that too!! Anxious to get home from the cottage and tinker some more.

And---thanks for all the audio clips---so nice to hear you folks playing!!
Kro---your May 9 post's audio---the bits where you go up the neck and you get that "edge" / dirt, (as opposed to the rest of the track played lower seeming to be cleaner...)---is that with character pushed a little to get those frequencies to be more overdriven? That "edge" you get up there----I'm searching for that!!! (bass is a Sting signature P-bass with a SD3 single coil and flats).

So....apologies for the lengthy post, but genuine appreciation for all the sharing.

And oh ya....I need a number please. I think the next available one is 21, right? thanks!
 
Kro---your May 9 post's audio---the bits where you go up the neck and you get that "edge" / dirt, (as opposed to the rest of the track played lower seeming to be cleaner...)---is that with character pushed a little to get those frequencies to be more overdriven? That "edge" you get up there----I'm searching for that!!! (bass is a Sting signature P-bass with a SD3 single coil and flats).

So interestingly enough that's with character at 9:00.

For the longest time I only used higher character settings, mostly because of the somewhat sluggish feel of using a lower character setting when doing tone testing by myself. However, after some experimenting I found that the pre-drive scoop and effects of a lower character setting actually sounded really good in my mixes. These are the settings that I used for that recording, and have been using unchanged since last summer (which is odd for me as usually I'm also a compulsive knob twister).

So two recommendations: test out a lower character setting, it might be what you need, and also test out some settings with blend set to full SansAmp. Decrease drive if you need, or adjust EQ, but personally I've found that I prefer options without a clean blend, which can get a little messy depending on your settings due to phase issues.

Also, FWIW, given that the EQ section on these VTDI units is post blend, it is actually possible to test and set EQ for flat with character, bite, and the speaker sim out of the equation. That's what you're seeing below - basically all EQ at noon, and maybe what could be excused as a small tweak due to component variance for highs. I think when users mention the 9:00 highs setting being flat, that is meant to offset the highs boost when bite is engaged.

Hope that's helpful! Happy experimenting!

IMG_20190618_204542980~2.jpg
 
So interestingly enough that's with character at 9:00.

For the longest time I only used higher character settings, mostly because of the somewhat sluggish feel of using a lower character setting when doing tone testing by myself. However, after some experimenting I found that the pre-drive scoop and effects of a lower character setting actually sounded really good in my mixes. These are the settings that I used for that recording, and have been using unchanged since last summer (which is odd for me as usually I'm also a compulsive knob twister).

So two recommendations: test out a lower character setting, it might be what you need, and also test out some settings with blend set to full SansAmp. Decrease drive if you need, or adjust EQ, but personally I've found that I prefer options without a clean blend, which can get a little messy depending on your settings due to phase issues.

Also, FWIW, given that the EQ section on these VTDI units is post blend, it is actually possible to test and set EQ for flat with character, bite, and the speaker sim out of the equation. That's what you're seeing below - basically all EQ at noon, and maybe what could be excused as a small tweak due to component variance for highs. I think when users mention the 9:00 highs setting being flat, that is meant to offset the highs boost when bite is engaged.

Hope that's helpful! Happy experimenting!

View attachment 4014690

Almost exact same settings works for me!
 
I just joined this forum and was hoping someone on here might be able to give me some information about a problem that just occurred in regards to my foot switch suddenly having absolutely no signal.
I have a Landmark 300, which I run through a Furman AR-117 power conditioner, and have the AR3-B foot switch.
I was running the Landmark via the preamp output jack to Logic Pro X through a Focusrite Scarlett 18i20 3rd gen just to dial in a proper set of tones and had only had it in use for an hour or two before unplugging everything and shutting down shop for the night.
The next afternoon I went to open up a previous recording session to overdub some DI bass tracks, and that’s when I was given that proverbially swift kick to the nuts, only to find that my foot switch was no longer lighting up and that now the only channel variance options afforded to me were through the front panel channel push button.
I initially thought that maybe I hadn’t plugged in the cord to the rear foot switch input jack, but when I realized that wasn’t the case, that’s where the spiraling descent into disbelief, immediate troubleshooting 101 procedures ,OCD-style cable testing and making sure the input jacks weren’t loose came into play.
But, alas here I am hoping someone may be able to offer up some insight, as to a possible tip for a DIY fix, or if there’s just something I may have overlooked and is a commonplace reason why the foot switch no longer works.

Thanks in advance to anyone who may be able to offer up some advice. The last thing I want to do is have to hunt down a new one, but generally that’s how Murphy’s law seems to grind a fool down.
 
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Thanks in advance to anyone who may be able to offer up some advice. The last thing I want to do is have to hunt down a new one, but generally that’s how Murphy’s law seems to grind a fool down.

I know you received more help in your other thread, but have you tried emailing Tech 21 directly? Their customer service is pretty top notch. I don't know anything about the footswitch personally, but that'd probably be the first place I'd go for help.

Good luck!
 
I actually do plan on contacting Tech 21 directly because, after going through the diagnostic run through I did last night, the issue is definitely directly linked to the foot switch. It’s basically a little more complex issue with one of the grounding components on the circuit board. I’ve been able to detect one of the contact points that will activate the pedal, but it doesn’t work unless I actually hit the contact points manually with a paperclip or pin. The other issue is that, although the switches function, there seems to be a disparity in tone quality from prior to encountering the issue.
Basically in short, I was hoping I could pull off a proper MacGyver but came to the conclusion the experts are the ones to properly handle the situation.
I do thank you for taking the time to offer up the advice. I’m really looking forward to get my rig back to its proper state. I’ve been a fan the company since I checked out the booth at the ‘98 NAMM show and have never found any amps comparable to the tones I can get out of their heads.
 
The best bass gear of 2020 | Guitar World

Tech 21 SH-1 gets the nod for best bass FX pedal.

Cost/value ratio was a primary consideration for this pandemic year poll, so I'm sure that's why the SH-1 was chosen over deluxe "kitchen sink" FX devices. Regardless, I think it's a great choice. I prefer the zazz of the DP-3X (not a 2020 pedal), but the SH-1 became my second favorite Tech 21 pedal, jumping over the VT, BDDI, and although it's very close, I even put it slightly above the Oxford.
 
I have the Bass Fly Rig and love it to death. I am considering another, and the DP3X and SH1 are the front runners. I thought I might like the DP3X more, but the SH1 is more practical for my bass needs. I really did like being able to cop that massive Pinnick clean/dirt tone!
 
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I have the Bass Fly Rig and love it to death. I am considering another, and the DP3X and SH1 are the front runners. I thought I might like the DP3X more, but the SH1 is more practical for my bass needs. I really did like being able to cop that massive Pinnick clean/dirt tone!
More practical is a great way to put it. The DP-3X is more versatile than many believe, but definitely excels at metallic clang and also has coloration that won't appeal to everyone. The SH-1 does metal (duh), but also offers a much wider range of traditional overdrive and distortion. It's also more intuitive than the DP-3X, which can pose challenges for newcomers to crossover distortion.
 
Excuse me so much I need some advice and your opinion: I have the bass fly rig v1 with which I am very happy but the sansamp DI bass Driver V2 intrigues me a lot; is it different as a product or if I already have the fly rig can I get the sounds of the DI Driver bass v2?
 
Excuse me so much I need some advice and your opinion: I have the bass fly rig v1 with which I am very happy but the sansamp DI bass Driver V2 intrigues me a lot; is it different as a product or if I already have the fly rig can I get the sounds of the DI Driver bass v2?

The SansAmp characteristics, namely drive, will be different, as I believe the fly rig uses a SansAmp circuit more closely related to the VT line.

If you really want the Bass Driver tone, then I'd pick one up. Otherwise, if the fly rig is doing it for you already I don't see any need for another unit.

In short, close but not the same. Get the BDDI if you really need that tone.
 
The SansAmp characteristics, namely drive, will be different, as I believe the fly rig uses a SansAmp circuit more closely related to the VT line.

If you really want the Bass Driver tone, then I'd pick one up. Otherwise, if the fly rig is doing it for you already I don't see any need for another unit.

In short, close but not the same. Get the BDDI if you really need that tone.
Thank you so much for your advice
 
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The SansAmp characteristics, namely drive, will be different, as I believe the fly rig uses a SansAmp circuit more closely related to the VT line.

If you really want the Bass Driver tone, then I'd pick one up. Otherwise, if the fly rig is doing it for you already I don't see any need for another unit.

In short, close but not the same. Get the BDDI if you really need that tone.
And what do you think about the comparison between fly rig v1 and sansamp steve harris? are they different or can they be similar? thank you very much!