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That BLOWN Goliath II from Craig's

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by eastcoasteddie, Aug 26, 2008.


  1. eastcoasteddie

    eastcoasteddie

    Mar 24, 2006
    NoVA
    I picked it up this afternoon. Took it home. Opened the L-pad...

    where do i get one of those "fuses" or "auto dome lights" I've read about??????

    DSC_3991.
     
  2. mrkreuzschlitz

    mrkreuzschlitz

    Jun 30, 2008
    Dacula, GA
    Contact SWR?

    I'll laugh if thats the only thing wrong with it.
     
  3. For Eddie's sake, I hope that is all that is wrong with it..haha.
     
  4. Jim Carr

    Jim Carr Dr. Jim Gold Supporting Member

    Jan 21, 2006
    Denton, TX or Kailua, HI
    fEARful Kool-Aid dispensing liberal academic card-carrying union member Musicians Local 72-147
    These are just great cabs, even if your drivers need to be replaced.
    How much did you shell out? I got my "dome light" for my craigslist G II
    find at Gelb Music in Redwood City, CA. $3.00

    Note, the wiring in these is fragile, and if one driver is unhooked, it will sound like
    a speaker is blown--lots of weird distortion, not just a silent driver.

    I guess I missed the thread about this find....drat.
    Gonna search.
     
  5. ducatiman

    ducatiman

    Oct 3, 2006
    new yawk
    those are known as "festoon bulbs" in the auto trade, basically obsolete these days. VW used them on older bugs, dunno if they still do, any writing (values) on an endcap?


    if need be, i'll open up my GII later tonite, must leave for rehearsal v soon.
     
  6. SubXero

    SubXero

    Apr 27, 2008
    Philadelphia
    if you can find the amperage rating or any other writing on the fuse, you can likely find an equivalent one without too much trouble.

    Unless you're sure that's all that's wrong with it, I'd suggest you temporarily bypass the fuse with some wire and test it out before spending the money locating/tracking down a fuse. It shouldn't cause any harm as long as you're careful and don't leave it that way...
     
  7. Jim Carr

    Jim Carr Dr. Jim Gold Supporting Member

    Jan 21, 2006
    Denton, TX or Kailua, HI
    fEARful Kool-Aid dispensing liberal academic card-carrying union member Musicians Local 72-147
    In http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=145606
    noted TBer Bimplizkit says:
    N.B., that thread is very worthwhile and very funny.
     
  8. fenderhutz

    fenderhutz Supporting Member

    Jan 28, 2007
    Harpers Ferry WV
    Time for a trip to Auto Zone to fix that amp.
     
  9. anderbass

    anderbass

    Dec 20, 2005
    Phoenix. Az.
    That bulb appears to be a standard #211 dome light bulb like many 70's/80's GM products used. These bulbs used to be available at most all auto part stores.
     
  10. eastcoasteddie

    eastcoasteddie

    Mar 24, 2006
    NoVA
    YES! stamping on the end cases is
    TS
    211-2


    Funny because I used to work in a "mom & pop" Auto Parts store that had EVERYTHING, and have been involved in a couple of GM car restorations, but have not seen this type of bulb yet...
    The store I used to work has has bought into the NAPA chain, so I can go there and get one!!!!
     
  11. eastcoasteddie

    eastcoasteddie

    Mar 24, 2006
    NoVA
    Yes, I thought about wiring in a few strands of #18 thermostat wire to see what happens. If it works, I'll just buy the fuse and have myself a $75 + $3 (fuse) Goliath II.
    ...can it be that easy?
    Sometimes I thank God that there are people out there that don't know how to use a screw driver.
     
  12. Jim Carr

    Jim Carr Dr. Jim Gold Supporting Member

    Jan 21, 2006
    Denton, TX or Kailua, HI
    fEARful Kool-Aid dispensing liberal academic card-carrying union member Musicians Local 72-147
    $75! Dang...er $78? Double Dang!!
     
  13. Jaco who?

    Jaco who?

    May 20, 2008
    Buy two or three, just in case something really is causing them to blow - if you have an ohmmeter/dvm, check the resistance of the tweeter,should read around 5 to 8 ohms, and see if any caps in the circuit board for the crossover are shorted to ground.

    If you're lucky, someone plugged in an instrument cable they got really mad at before hand and the squealing blew the fuse. Not that I have any first hand experience with that sort of thing, mind you.
     
  14. anderbass

    anderbass

    Dec 20, 2005
    Phoenix. Az.
    I'm pretty sure that blown fuse should only be disabling the horn and the 4x10's should still be working unless there's a another problem.
     
  15. eastcoasteddie

    eastcoasteddie

    Mar 24, 2006
    NoVA
    after futzin' with it for a while, there DOES seem to be another problem...

    I wired a strand of thin wire in place of the fuse. The horn works fine, and the speakers "work"...but there is a lot of distortion coming out of them. I thought it was my amp...used the old, retired SVT 200T.
    Then lugged my 2 Pro to it in the garage to check..same thing; distortion.

    What can it be?
     
  16. eastcoasteddie

    eastcoasteddie

    Mar 24, 2006
    NoVA
    I have the wierd distortion. I removed all 4 speakers and checked the wiring. All is OK in that dept.
     
  17. fenderhutz

    fenderhutz Supporting Member

    Jan 28, 2007
    Harpers Ferry WV
    Bad crossover?

    Also do the push on the baskets check to see if they are scraping.
     
  18. eastcoasteddie

    eastcoasteddie

    Mar 24, 2006
    NoVA
    that's what I'm thinking...
     
  19. eastcoasteddie

    eastcoasteddie

    Mar 24, 2006
    NoVA
    I got a few of those "fuses" and put a new one in.

    I called my local Music Shop, Main Drag Music:
    http://www.maindragmusic.com/

    The guy I spoke to, describing how the cab sounds, he said without hesitation, "The speakers are trash". But I'm not sure I believed him. He said the L-pads in those GII's are very robust, he's never seen one blown (although there is a first time for everything).

    So I decided to do more tinkering. I tried each speaker individually with the existing L-pad. Each speaker has the same distortion.
    Removed the L-pad and hooked up an old Carvin L-pad that I have. Same distortion.
    I took an ohm reading of each speaker. each one reads 4.5 ohms
    The horn reads 7.4 ohms
    When I press down on the cone, my ohm meter flips out and started jumping around all over the place; as high as 112 ohms even.

    I'm starting to think that the guy I spoke to is right. I'd have to belive that the speakers are trashed....

    And that's OK because I wanted to replace them all anyway and make it a 4 ohm cab.
    The guy at the store suggested Eminence Delta 10's (standard, Non-NEO...he doesn't like how NEO's sound)) to a good meat & potatoes speaker. For more abusive situations, he'd suggest Kappa's.

    What do y'all think?
     
  20. If you want the cabinet to sound as it originally did, replace the speakers with OEM new ones. The alternative is to have the existing speakers re-coned. This will possibly be a little cheaper way to go.

    If you go non OEM you will have to select ones suitable for the cabinet. Win ISD is your friend. Just putting any old speaker in that box would be a crapshoot at best.

    Paul
     

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