I have heard some inspectors specify ground pin up in case something falls down on the pins it will hit the ground conductor first.
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NFPA 70, (for very practical reasons) empowers what it defines as: "the authority having jurisdiction" with the right to interpret, and allow, or not allow any part of an electrical installation as they see fit.
It also absolves the AHJ from any liability that results from approving work, and (rightfully) places responsibility for all liability resulting from improper, or substandard work on the person who performed the work.
I don't have a copy of NFPA 70 to refer to while posting here, so to absolve myself from any liability I must paraphrase Microsofts EULA, and say that my statements here shall not be warranted to be suitable for any particular purpose. Nor shall I be held liable for any incedental, or consequential damages as a result of my bad advice. OK?
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I have seen the AHJ require the grounding of the steel reinforcement on swimming pools tied into electrical ground for a house. Made for a shocking swim.
As a "fully unlicensed, and ameture electrician", I reworked an error in the in-ground swimming pool wet niche lighting system installation at a house my daughter bought a few years ago. We did not know there was a problem because the pool was empty when she bought the place. I had never heard the term "wet niche" until we discovered the pool lights were improperly installed. I had to research how it was supposed to be done. That was before LED lighting was readily available. Now, I plan to convert the 115 VAC underwater fixtures to low voltage LED lamps before next summer even though I did make the original lighting system safe, and code compliant. Too bad whoever did the original (permitted, and inspected) installation did not take the time that I did to carefully read, and interpret the code to do it properly back in 1980, and it took a putz like me to make it right. The sellers were very vague about the pool, and said that they had not used it for a few years. After my daughter filled the pool, the GFCIs would trip randomly.
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The 115 VAC incandescent submerged wet niche lighting is going to be replaced by safer, and better looking low voltage LED pool lighting.
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To me the drain at the bottom of the pool is a greater hazard. Residential only required one drain, commercial two or a very big one. For chemicals I like bromide based over chloride.
- Feb 12, 2006
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- Development Engineer-Mesa Boogie, Development Engineer-Genzler (pedals), Product Support-Genz Benz
This is in fact mandatory under every code that I am aware of. The AHJ is absolutely correct in requiring this bonding to the grounding system.
The reason is to insure that every practical surface, including the deck, metalwork, pumps, filters, etc. be at a guaranteed potential relative to the earth (equipotential plane). This also includes metalwork of the house (if within a certain distance), and EVERY receptacle must be GFCI protected. It used to be that hard wired pumps did not require GFCI's, but this changed ~8 years ago.
I might have to spend the 180$ or so they charge non-members for the latest version of NFPA70 to see what the latest requirements are for swimming pool equipment before I update my daughters pool. I bet the pump and filter setup she has is not compliant to today's standard.
This is crazy. What guitar uses a 1/4 TRS jack? Not only that, the AC power is unbalanced because the low side is ground referenced. This cable really should have a S/C 280 installed.
the equalipotentail grounding ties all metal into one grid. It's all metal within 5 ft of the pool surface. The galventic action between dissimilar metals is addressed. There is a specific section in the electric code for the bonding.
I guess that's sort of like phantom powering the active preamp in the bass. If 9v is good, 18 volts is better, 120 volts should be stellar. Maybe even super-nova for the barefoot bassist on the concrete floor.One's with active electronics.
Plugging in might get exciting though.
Rickenbackers can use a stereo plug. Rick-o-sound, sleeve for the neck pickup, tip for the bridge.
If you have a bass cord like the one shown above, wire a 120v outlet box to split to the inputs to two amps. The advantage is that you can use it with extension cords.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
If you have a bass cord like the one shown above, wire a 120v outlet box to split to the inputs to two amps. The advantage is that you can use it with extension cords.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
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I hear stories about a guy that converted all his PA speakers cables to U ground (nema 5-15) enabling him to handily use a common AC extension cord when he needed to extend his speaker line runs...
Maybe this is one of those urban legends, but I'm sure someone has tried it.
Maybe this is one of those urban legends, but I'm sure someone has tried it.
They enforce AFCI in MD.
Many years ago we were doing a very large master bathroom remodel and modified two closets in two bedrooms.
The inspector made us install tamper proof plugs in both bedrooms (about 18). Even though we changed the size of the closet only, the permit made us have to upgrade outlets to modern code. This code was on the books but had never been enforced.
That same inspector insisted that the recessed lights in a closet had to have the water proof lenses.
He claimed that since it was a closet (albeit clothes closet) someone might have a broom that could break a bulb.
Time for an update. I just received word from Aguilar that both the preamp and power amp are beyond repair and have to be replaced. In a way this is good news because the amp will again be like new. I had my Genz Benz repaired by Agedhorse and he put it back in perfect working order and back to me in just days. I highly recommend him and thank him for his fine work in keeping our Genz Benz amps up and running.
So the total repair bill for both amps is going to be about $700. The radio station involved told me they will pay for the repairs but sometimes things don't happen like they should. Their offices are close to me so I can make a personal visit if required.
In any case, please use those little receptacle testers. I do every time at every venue now. So far I have found no additional problems but it only takes once, doesn't it?
So the total repair bill for both amps is going to be about $700. The radio station involved told me they will pay for the repairs but sometimes things don't happen like they should. Their offices are close to me so I can make a personal visit if required.
In any case, please use those little receptacle testers. I do every time at every venue now. So far I have found no additional problems but it only takes once, doesn't it?
Sorry, don't mean to laugh.
But don't let them screw you around on the payback.
I work in radio. Too much BS going on in that biz to beleive any of it.
Get paid quickly, don't let up.
The FCC has just changed the rules about stations having to maintain a local presence.
You might find the offices boarded up soon.
Good luck.
given a choice I prefer the twist to contact plugs. I would consider speakeron with the "twist to contact" pig tails. I would use SO cable. 1/4 inch plugs come out too easily, Imo, nema 5-15, come apart too easily.
