The Über-M - fretless

[miziomix]

Curses! That means I'll have to design my own.

I hear you Dave OK, I really don't think I will bother with patent. I'll upload pictures when it gets to that stage.

These days I am busy with spraying the Rök and getting the next two builds ready. I'm in a very uncomfortable position on one of them as the graphite neck ordered in September last year hasn't arrived yet and my client is furious. So, I'll have to start building the body. I hate that. Oh well.... I had been warned...

All that to say, I didn't work much on this build. But something has been quietly accomplished

Side dots.

For the 12th fret I had originally planned - as you probably recall - a vertical double dot. As I sat down to drill for the second dot I realized that I didn't like the idea anymore...

After a few emails KL-London-KL......

It's still a bit crude but once polished the brass ring will shine. This I like

Engraving the logo.

I do this by hand. I like doing it and I like inlays that are done by hand. Laser cuts are very...er... cold.

It was a great opportunity to test a new tool I just bought - it's featured in the other ÜJ thread - and boy does it make it easier! I don't necessarily mean cleaner. Just easier. It cuts through the wood smoothly and it cuts my time down (no pun intended) by a-lot.

I still use a burin and a scalpel. But I suspect I will use them less once I truly get a hang of this new tool.

And here's the finished work. The veneer is still a bit crude - scratches and rough edges. The surface is wet with mineral spirits.

Thank you for your interest in what happens in a land far far away

 

[cccy]

 

[jmorbita]

I really dig that inlay!

I've no idea what that tool is... does it make finer cuts than what a dremel can?

I always thought dentists' tools would be great for inlay work...

 

[miziomix]

I really dig that inlay!

I've no idea what that tool is... does it make finer cuts than what a dremel can?

I always thought dentists' tools would be great for inlay work...

Yeah... I found myself thinking - so, that's how my dentist feels when he works on my teeth uh?

As a matter of fact some very expensive brands offer tools for dentist work too.

I used this newly acquired PGmini hand tool. It's like a Dremel, just slightly less powerful at 8000-30,000rpm. The complete set comes with a flexible shaft - the one I used for this inlay. Plus a huge selection of bits that are Dremel compatible. Clever.

It's very handy, no vibrations and very reasonably priced. Not that you would replaced a D with it. But I wanted to give it a try and support an Italian brand So far I am very pleased.

Thank you jm!

 

[Wade10987]

Thanks for putting the umlaut on the "U" word.

 

[miziomix]

Thanks for putting the umlaut on the "U" word.

And I shoüld shoüt oüt a hüge thank yoü to the TBer düde who taüght me this fünction on a Mac

 

[miziomix]

It has been more than two weeks since the last update and much has happened. Serendipity has hit hard this time... LOL...

The White/Black/Yellow combo is now just black/yellow. Talking about minimalism

The back now sports a 6mm thick Macassar Ebony laminate with matching cavity cover. It's a beautiful piece, which should probably grace the top of another build. But it felt so right for this bass...

The idea is to spray the white sides black. That is, from the edge of the Olive top to just beyond the edges of the Macassar. At that point the black paint fades to gradually reveal the Mac grain. Satin finish.

I am very pleased with this new look. It feels a lot more gusty. Simpler, more subtle and with a twist.

This face lift required a bit of reverse engineering. So, for those who're interested, these are the steps.

- Remove the white back laminate. This can be done in many ways. I chose to route out a small area, exposing the ebony laminate underneath. Then remove the rest of the white laminate with a big chisel and a hammer. It's quite fast and it doesn't make as much dust.

- Next, I sanded down the Ebony laminate. It's a shame, I know. But that laminate was salvaged wood, remember?, only good for accent lines. Not good enough for a top.

- Glue the Macassar laminate to the body.

- Next day, shape the new laminate to the body contour. Belt and drum sander. This requires a light touch or the belt sander will spoil the body contour

- Drill holes for the neck screws. I used a dill bit of the same size as the hole, as it would be very hard to find the center with a smaller bit.

Carefully drill the countersunk on the back. To make sure the bit is in the center, I lower it until it touches the wood. Then I turn it by hand until it digs a light circular mark into the wood. That way I can see if it's perfectly centered.

- Next, el. cavity. To do this you need a routing bit with the ball bearing at the tip. They are designed to follow a template under the edges that are to be routed. Drill a hole in the center of the area where the cavity is supposed to be and slowly drive the bit to the edge. Once the router gets there it's just a matter of following it.

- While I was at that, I decided to enlarge the cavity slightly. This is a single p-up bass and one might want to add a piezo in the future. Who knows?

- finally route the counter sunk and cut the cavity cover.

I also cut and shaped the brass nut. It's still a bit rough.

I'm left with drilling for screws on the cavity cover, pore filling and final sanding.

By the look of it, this build should hit the spraying booth sometimes next week. By then the other build, which is now awaiting the last satin finish, will be done too.

 

[joeyl]

What do you use to shape and level your fretless boards? Do you use a radius block and a leveling beam after, or do you use a jig?

thanks

 

[miziomix]

What do you use to shape and level your fretless boards? Do you use a radius block and a leveling beam after, or do you use a jig?

thanks

Hey joeyl, I use a radius block. I am planning to build a jig, but not just yet.

 

[joeyl]

Hey joeyl, I use a radius block. I am planning to build a jig, but not just yet.

thanks Maurizio all your fretboards are quite nice and appear uniform in shape, that's why I was asking!

 

[Marcury]

I'm wondering why your planning on finishing the wenge neck. Wenge really doesn't need a finish and feels wonderful raw.

 

[miziomix]

thanks Maurizio all your fretboards are quite nice and appear uniform in shape, that's why I was asking!

You're very welcome BTW, I so like your avatar... it makes me think of my own ol' pal Billy, RIP. So I smile every time I see that picture

I'm wondering why your planning on finishing the wenge neck. Wenge really doesn't need a finish and feels wonderful raw.

Hey Mercury, my reason for preferring lacquer finish is twofold and has nothing to do with Wenge specifically.

One reason is that lacquer finish is a great way to preserve the wood. Since my clients live in different countries and climates, reliability is an important element for me to consider.

The other and probably more important reason is that ultimately I want my builds to share a recognizable, consistent look.

A wood combo is to me only one of the many elements in the mix. Lacquer finish is another.

This, I know, is purely subjective. It just reflects my vision as far as the ideal bass is concerned. Of course the fact that I never personally liked unfinished necks plays a big role.

 

[miziomix]

This build is quickly approaching the final stage. I assembled it one last time to check that everything was cool before hitting the spray booth.

It seems that I'll have to route a slightly deeper bridge recess if the strings have to go crazy low on the FB - which they might

Other than that it's good to go. I even played it a bit with a fresh set of 45/105 roundwound. I like playing a new bass as soon as I can, ear to the upper horn. Hideous red silk, I know :scowl:

The body is basically done, there are just a few smudges to clean up here and there. Then, epoxy pore filling on the sides.

The p-up wood casing will be sanded further and eventually will be as dark as the board.

The white sides will then be sprayed in black. BTW, does anyone think that the sides should stay white?

The neck has already gone through the epoxy pore filling. I gave it two coats with light sanding after each coat. I might have to go ahead with one more round.

The headstock too is ready, aside from a few final touches to the truss rod slot.

Hope you like what you see

 

[Matthijs]

I kind of like the white sides, but I don't think there's much you can do that will not make me want to play this bass. It's stunning.

 

[SallyGrowler]

she is purty!

 

[HaMMerHeD]

Between this and your currrent J build...I have to say your eye for wood selection is extraordinary. As are, of course, your designs and executions.

 

[Stealth]

Brilliant build. Can't wait to hear it.

 

[cccy]

you really need a website man! these basses are works of art!

 

[SaintMez]

I think this bass would look awesome as is, without spraying black over the semangkok (sp). The contrast between the two woods on the back looks amazing. Just my 2 cents.

 

[miziomix]

I kind of like the white sides, but I don't think there's much you can do that will not make me want to play this bass. It's stunning.

oh, I can spray it orange and pink Thank you so much, Matthijs I wish everyone could give it a go.

she is purty!

Aphrodite says 'thanks you'

Between this and your currrent J build...I have to say your eye for wood selection is extraordinary. As are, of course, your designs and executions.

Much obliged you're very kind.

Brilliant build. Can't wait to hear it.

Same here bro, same here....

you really need a website man! these basses are works of art!

Good point. And I started doing something about it a few months back.Then the project got shelved. The thing is, I much prefer TB and FB for the great interaction with great folks like you guys
But I appreciate that a web site serves a different purpose and it's a must have... guess I'm lazy.... Thank you

I think this bass would look awesome as is, without spraying black over the semangkok (sp). The contrast between the two woods on the back looks amazing. Just my 2 cents.

I actually agree that the back looks great as is. In fact, I am darn sure I'll build a B&W bass in the near future.

In this specific case though, I am not 100% sure the B&W back works with the Olivewood top.... it does... it doesn't... it does... it doesn't...

So I will go ahead and spray it clear as is. The Semangkok will darken somewhat and that might do the trick - this wood has a very nice natural sheen.

The future owner and I will decide based on the look after a few clear coats.

Something tells me that in the end, black will nail it. Oh well... We'll see.

Thanks