That last shot of the back is just scrumptious. Now I want waffles and maple syrup for some odd reason...
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The Über-M - fretless
- Thread starter miziomix
- Start date
It has been a while since my last update - even more than that on the other thread - the Funk Machine... I have actually been pretty active with both builds and another one. So much so than I did not have time to post any update.
I'll start with this build, nearing completion, and I'll proceed with updating the FM if I don't fall asleep on the laptop.
The bass has gone through four more coats of lacquer. Don't ask how many in total... Actually I don't know. But it just looks so good after this coat that it's got to be ready for satin finish
In the meantime, some other tasks were accomplished. The p-up has to be housed inside a wooden casing made of Asian Ebony. The casing was made some time ago, then sanded to 12,000 grit and oiled a few times.
Then the Delano p-up was sanded on all sides to reduce the amount of material and achieve a nice fit. The top of the casing is also very thin - perhaps just over 1 mm thickness.
Then the casing inside walls are coated with epoxy, the p-up inserted and clamped very gently. The tiny gaps in the corners are filled with epoxy.
After a few minutes...
This picture was taken with fluorescent light, hence a colder hue.
Next update soon
Thank you for following this build
I'll start with this build, nearing completion, and I'll proceed with updating the FM if I don't fall asleep on the laptop.
The bass has gone through four more coats of lacquer. Don't ask how many in total... Actually I don't know. But it just looks so good after this coat that it's got to be ready for satin finish
In the meantime, some other tasks were accomplished. The p-up has to be housed inside a wooden casing made of Asian Ebony. The casing was made some time ago, then sanded to 12,000 grit and oiled a few times.
Then the Delano p-up was sanded on all sides to reduce the amount of material and achieve a nice fit. The top of the casing is also very thin - perhaps just over 1 mm thickness.
Then the casing inside walls are coated with epoxy, the p-up inserted and clamped very gently. The tiny gaps in the corners are filled with epoxy.
After a few minutes...
This picture was taken with fluorescent light, hence a colder hue.
Next update soon
Thank you for following this build
Recently, I didn't have time to post updates as I'm rushing to finish this build and the graphite neck one. So this update is kinda overdue :scowl:
Some pictures.
After removing the masking tape I had to finely sand down the lacquer edges along the fingerboard. Then the board was dry sanded with micro-mesh from 1,500 to 3,600 grit.
Thereafter, I started sanding it with lemon oil, rubbing the oil into the wood, and sanding with increasingly finer grit - 4,000 > 12,000.
You will probably notice a small bulge on the Zericote wall behind the nut slot. That's a lacquer residual. It has been sanded down after this picture was taken. Wet sanding 800 grit > 3,600 grit, which is where it regained the same level of sheen as the buffed lacquer coat of the headstock.
I like that the grain is still visible.
This time around I shielded the el. cavity with copper foil instead of shielding paint, which I usually prefer. I just don't have the luxury of three days for the paint job.
I don't dislike copper foil. Just, sometimes is the ultimate Zen exercise.
* To avoid coursing at the foil sticking everywhere but along the straight line I want it to, I do not to remove all of the protective paper.
Instead, I peel and cut off only enough to get the head in position, then I bend the paper backward and pull it as I gradually stick the rest of the foil.
Something like this.
* Something else I have started doing.
Generally, I get annoyed when a battery sits too tight in the recess. Some are so tight and hard to take out, that they make that copper foil-Zen thing look like stuff for amateurs.
So I make the cavity just large enough to easily get the battery in and out. The little spongy pad at the bottom pushes the battery just a tiny bit higher than the cavity rim. This way, lightly pressed between the cover and the pad, the battery will stay firmly in place.
This bass will (have to) be ready by Wednesday as I'm off to Europe on Thursday and she's coming with me. The owner lives in London.
I shouldbe able to get some recording studio time in Milan
New updates sooner than this one
Thank you for following this build and for your kind words
Some pictures.
After removing the masking tape I had to finely sand down the lacquer edges along the fingerboard. Then the board was dry sanded with micro-mesh from 1,500 to 3,600 grit.
Thereafter, I started sanding it with lemon oil, rubbing the oil into the wood, and sanding with increasingly finer grit - 4,000 > 12,000.
You will probably notice a small bulge on the Zericote wall behind the nut slot. That's a lacquer residual. It has been sanded down after this picture was taken. Wet sanding 800 grit > 3,600 grit, which is where it regained the same level of sheen as the buffed lacquer coat of the headstock.
I like that the grain is still visible.
This time around I shielded the el. cavity with copper foil instead of shielding paint, which I usually prefer. I just don't have the luxury of three days for the paint job.
I don't dislike copper foil. Just, sometimes is the ultimate Zen exercise.
* To avoid coursing at the foil sticking everywhere but along the straight line I want it to, I do not to remove all of the protective paper.
Instead, I peel and cut off only enough to get the head in position, then I bend the paper backward and pull it as I gradually stick the rest of the foil.
Something like this.
* Something else I have started doing.
Generally, I get annoyed when a battery sits too tight in the recess. Some are so tight and hard to take out, that they make that copper foil-Zen thing look like stuff for amateurs.
So I make the cavity just large enough to easily get the battery in and out. The little spongy pad at the bottom pushes the battery just a tiny bit higher than the cavity rim. This way, lightly pressed between the cover and the pad, the battery will stay firmly in place.
This bass will (have to) be ready by Wednesday as I'm off to Europe on Thursday and she's coming with me. The owner lives in London.
I shouldbe able to get some recording studio time in Milan
New updates sooner than this one
Thank you for following this build and for your kind words
+1, If you get as far north as York PM me for a guided tour (and a drink of course).
Thank you!
Barkerbass, Delta7fred, it would be great to meet you guys. If I make it to London we'll hook up.
I will be in Milan, Prague and Paris from Sept 15th to Oct 31st. If any TBer is in the neighborhood, just let me know. Beer in Prague is great and in Milan or Paris we can still go with a glass of red
And finally, final pictures
Satin finish works very well with this combo. The Zericote board and the Asian Ebony p-up casing are both oil finished.
The casing houses a Delano HB p-up. The eq. is a 2 bands Bartolini. I find this combination very nice. It contributes to a clean yet not sterile tone. It has loads of bottom and it sounds very natural even with treble pot fully cranked.
Yesterday I decided that the satin back wasn't quite working on the back as well as on the front. It made the Macassar look dull and the black paint cheap. So I added a light sheen to the flat area. A semi-glossy look that IMO goes much better with the Macassar , the black and the neck. Then the sheen fades into satin around the sides to meet the satin finish at the front.
This bass weights 6lbs or 2.7 kg. Not bad for all that wenge, ebony and zericote.
One last picture for my TB friends. As promised, the string anchors.
It is now stringed with .40/.100 roundwound and set to very low action. A lot of Mwahhh. I'll test it for a while then string it with the owner's flats.
I should be able to do some recording before I leave. Else, I'll get a studio in Milan.
Thank you!
Barkerbass, Delta7fred, it would be great to meet you guys. If I make it to London we'll hook up.
I will be in Milan, Prague and Paris from Sept 15th to Oct 31st. If any TBer is in the neighborhood, just let me know. Beer in Prague is great and in Milan or Paris we can still go with a glass of red
And finally, final pictures
Satin finish works very well with this combo. The Zericote board and the Asian Ebony p-up casing are both oil finished.
The casing houses a Delano HB p-up. The eq. is a 2 bands Bartolini. I find this combination very nice. It contributes to a clean yet not sterile tone. It has loads of bottom and it sounds very natural even with treble pot fully cranked.
Yesterday I decided that the satin back wasn't quite working on the back as well as on the front. It made the Macassar look dull and the black paint cheap. So I added a light sheen to the flat area. A semi-glossy look that IMO goes much better with the Macassar , the black and the neck. Then the sheen fades into satin around the sides to meet the satin finish at the front.
This bass weights 6lbs or 2.7 kg. Not bad for all that wenge, ebony and zericote.
One last picture for my TB friends. As promised, the string anchors.
It is now stringed with .40/.100 roundwound and set to very low action. A lot of Mwahhh. I'll test it for a while then string it with the owner's flats.
I should be able to do some recording before I leave. Else, I'll get a studio in Milan.
Thank you!
You mentioned that the wood for the top was Olivewood. I know that this a rather silly question, but is this wood from an Olive tree?
Amazing. There are a lot of well made custom guitars out there but this one is truly beautiful.
