With all my experience of buzzing the solution for me was putting on a bar retainer and taking out the string tree. Fixes it permanently.
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The "A string rattle" syndrome, just to see if I could
- Thread starter Thumpking
- Start date
The many wraps solution is a permanent fix as well; for us that don't want to drill more holes in the bass. To each his own.
That is the nice thing about this hipshot copy. Slip over the peg and is held by the hex nut. No headstock alteration. This is why I chose this route over another tree. The many wraps works for a good while, but eventually the buzz or low volume issue comes back for some as the round-wounds loosen.
Cool invention. Might have saved me some dough!
I posted some time ago on another thread about the A slot on the factory nut of my 2011/12 American Special P. It was E size, and square. Rattle city. The nut was not, shall we say, user serviceable. Way too much glue.
I spent the $ to have a Graph Tek nut installed by a pro. Fixed.
I posted some time ago on another thread about the A slot on the factory nut of my 2011/12 American Special P. It was E size, and square. Rattle city. The nut was not, shall we say, user serviceable. Way too much glue.
I spent the $ to have a Graph Tek nut installed by a pro. Fixed.
Curious why is this just an issue with the Deluxes and not every other J and P bass? TBH, I've never run across this on the 10 or so P and J's I've owned. If it's really a case of cutting the nut properly, that seems like a pretty easy fix. Is that why Fender is putting them on newer Deluxe basses? Is the string angle from the tuning post to the nut the same as it's always been?
Properly strung, it is isn't an issue with any Fender style bass. These products are solutions to perceived problems.
scotch
It's not rocket science!
- Nov 12, 2006
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I've experienced it on Fender style basses from a wide range of decades! But not every bass.
My guess is that it happens more in instruments with deeper cut nut slots. A really deep slot (by "deep" I mean with the string just barely clearing the 1st fret) feels better to most players, but can reveal the rattling A due to the reduced break angle.
Interesting. Not exactly a huge sample, but I just checked the 4 Fender MIA basses in home studio and they all have what I'd call a normal cut. All A strings are sitting where they should relative to other 3 strings. Just wondering, if this is a known issue to Fender why they'd choose to add a 1 string string tree rather than cut a proper nut.
scotch
It's not rocket science!
- Nov 12, 2006
- 6,944
- 2,083
- 51
- Disclosures
- Please see Profile for Endorsement disclosures
I think Fender doesn't address it because the simple 'fix' is to make sure you have enough windings.
Another poster commented about the extra windings 'loosening' over time. That would be weird as strings actually stiffen over time and more wraps turn around the post as the strings stretch.
I just checked my MIA and I have 1½ wraps on the A string - it contacts the nut at both ends, and the slot is perfect.
I could not make a rattle or buzz.
I hit the lottery!
I could not make a rattle or buzz.
I hit the lottery!
have the same issue on my kramer focus (short headstock 4 in line), I will try to fix it with a bar stringtree that was designed for floyd rose guitars (will put is over a, d and g)
Yup - properly strung, with a properly cut nut, it just isn't an issue - atleast it never has been to me...
- georgestrings
Me too. But since it apparently is easy to produce the problem, one could argue that there's no harm in providing a permanent, foolproof solution. As long as it's not too invasive or ugly, why not.
To me, drilling holes is TOO invasive.
You choose to, but is it really saving you anything? Not cutting the string and winding it down to the deck vs. measuring, cutting and threading it under the new protrusion?
Not that either solution is onerous and both are effective, but drilling a new hole is TOO intrusive. To say it is not is incorrect, at least to many of us. But that is our prerogative.
But, I don't care what you do to your bass. It's yours and you will treat it as such; as it should be.
You choose to, but is it really saving you anything? Not cutting the string and winding it down to the deck vs. measuring, cutting and threading it under the new protrusion?
Not that either solution is onerous and both are effective, but drilling a new hole is TOO intrusive. To say it is not is incorrect, at least to many of us. But that is our prerogative.
But, I don't care what you do to your bass. It's yours and you will treat it as such; as it should be.
To each their own - I make sure the nut is properly cut, and that I have 3 wraps around my tuner posts - and I've never had an issue... I usually wrap the G string at full length, first - and mark a string envelop/package with the measurement the string goes past it's post - that'll usually be around 3 wraps... then, I use that to cut the other 3 strings to length... It's not at all difficult, and I end up with a nice restringing job, and zero issues - with no additional costs or hassles...
There are currently 5 Fender basses in my house, and the above is working fine on all 5 - just sayin'...
- georgestrings
I had that happen a long time ago. Since then I make sure there are at least 3 wraps on every string. Haven't had the problem since. Drill holes if you want, but if the idea of putting holes in your baby sounds scary, wrap more. More tension on the nut is a good thing.
I had a pro who works with wood install it for me. I wouldn't do it myself. He also took out my strap button and installed it on the other side "I play upside down". Works like a charm now. I've had no problem with buzz since. But I do have to agree I use the wrapping technique on my other bass. Works great.
I've never had this happen. However I do like it when a bass has better string tree coverage like the Roscoe Beck V.
