• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

THE CARVIN SB5000 IS IN EFFECT!!!!!!!!!

#63
These basses have had my interest since I first saw them in the summer catalogue, and as I'm getting very close to making a decision, I have an important question for those of you who have owned a few different types of instruments :


since I have a preference for maple fingerboards over rosewood for tone, but feel there are more color/pickguard combos that look, to me, better, than what works with a maple board, how would those you have owned multiple basses, (perhaps other Carvin basses) compare maple to an ebony fingerboard ?

For me, I feel you can dial the tone of maple, that bright spank, out of a maple boarded instrument, but it's a lot harder to dial in that tone on a rosewood board instrument, in my limited experience.

Thanks in Advance !
 
#64
Both my SB 4000 and SB 5000 basses have that "Bright Spank" even with passive J99's on maple / ebony necks. For even more "Spank" definitely go for active as they incorporate treble and bass boost options. My personal opinion save your money and go for passive. You cannot go wrong with Carvin.
 
#65
iguigd said:
Both my SB 4000 and SB 5000 basses have that "Bright Spank" even with passive J99's on maple / ebony necks. For even more "Spank" definitely go for active as they incorporate treble and bass boost options. My personal opinion save your money and go for passive. You cannot go wrong with Carvin.
Click to expand...

IMHO... the active option is only $60 and includes a true bypass for passive operation. I'd say that 60 bones is worth the flexibility.
 
#66
Limeman said:
IMHO... the active option is only $60 and includes a true bypass for passive operation. I'd say that 60 bones is worth the flexibility.
Click to expand...

Most definitely worth the extra "60 bones!" At the time I ordered my SB4000 I was not sure what I was getting into, in other words did not want to spend the extra "bones" on options. Had I known this was going to be an INCREDIBLE BASS I would have invested in all the options.
 
#68
Great question but I cannot answer that for you because both my SB4000 and SB5000 have ebony necks. All I can tell you is these basses have an amazing tonal range even with a passive setup. I would contact Carvin to see what they say?
 
#74
I've got an 07 MIM jazz which I absolutely love the tone of - occasionally with flatwounds as well. I'm confused and overwhelmed with all of the wood choices with the SB5000 ... I think this is the fiver I want, but can you folks help me break down the choices? Basically deciding between the SB5000 and a fender jazz 5er. Would greatly appreciate help.
 
#76
lsbland said:
I've got an 07 MIM jazz which I absolutely love the tone of - occasionally with flatwounds as well. I'm confused and overwhelmed with all of the wood choices with the SB5000 ... I think this is the fiver I want, but can you folks help me break down the choices? Basically deciding between the SB5000 and a fender jazz 5er. Would greatly appreciate help.
Click to expand...

Buying a Fender vs. a Carvin is really a big choice: A fender will always be a welcome instrument in a studio and will irrationally great resale value. Carvin? Not so much. It makes little sense, but that's just the way it is.

However, I have absolutely no doubt that this Carvin is a better bass in every way than a brand new US Fender. Add the whole choice of wood thing and hoo-boy - - there's really no comparison.

So, to my mind, you have to decide: Accept that you're buying a bass that will never appreciate in value and may be questioned in a gig/studio situation but will be what YOU want... or buy a fender.

You might want to read up on the bass a bit - I've read that the neck, by design, isn't real thin. I guess the fellow they used to consult on making it liked chunkier necks. Fair enough, but not everyone's cup of tea.

Now, as far as woods go...

If you want a bass that is very "Fender" in nature, I'd get either an alder or swamp-ash body. The top-wood doesn't have much bearing on tone - it's just for asthetics. Get a maple neck - again, fretboard makes little difference. Were it me, I'd get a swamp ash body, walnut (or, if availble, spaulted maple) top... Birdseye maple fretboard with abalone inlays... Chrome hardware. But that's just me.

good luck


NOTE: I just went to the web site, and "Built" a bass exactly as I describe above.... $1423, shipped with case. Freakin' amazing. Good thing I don't have $1423 laying around!!!

Try to get a new Fender with a spaulted maple top for THAT!
 
#78
Wilbyman said:
Mike...I think it compares very well, especially for the price. The fit and finish is excellent and the fretwork is bomb (better than my Fodera by a longshot). It is fun to play and easy to get around on.
Click to expand...

wheres my soundclips!?!? there was an sb4000 on la craigslist for like 500 bucks that i was tempted to buy even though i have zero need for a 4 string bass.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back