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The Fender Super Bassman 300 thread

#581
jeffgnr90 said:
Maybe that's what I was thinking of, the process before purchase. Good stuff to know!
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Yeah, back in the day, it wasn't an issue because American tube factories ran such tight tolerances that every tube out of the GE or whatever factory were discarded if they didn't meet exact specs. Nowadays, we'd be overjoyed to have those rejects and just need to burn them in and match them up.
 
#582
Just wanting to tell that I'm perfectly happy with my SB300, no issues in the past 14 months, the fat powerhouse sound it delivers is a pure joy.

I use the vintage channel only, and I crank it! Gain at 4..5, tone stack 6-5-10 + treble boost, master at 10.:hiding:
(Live I back of the master and increase the gain to keep things reasonable, that is).
And if that weren't enough, my #1 bass is a G&L L-1500 not known to be a slouch in terms of grind&grit factor.

Call me crazy.. well, blame the drummer... and probably the SWR cabs (4x10 + 1x18) are not the most efficient ones on the planet as well.
It's a bass-and-drums-only band, and a power one at that, which might also explain things... and yes, we do use earplugs.
 
#584
Does this look like the bias module light problem that I read about earlier in this thread? (Note 1a is dim/dark). Just noticed this after owning the amp for two months. Still sounds great though. Anybody know a good Fender tech north of Boston? ImageUploadedByTalkBass1384555035.203573.jpg
 
#585
Fender works with authorized facilities. All you need is a sales receipt. The Fender website will tell you where they are in your area. Just going dark w/o orange then red is likely sign of needing a new module, but you could swap tubes just to be sure.
 
#586
Yes, the fix is simple and quick. A friend of mine last week had the power drop off on his 100T and took it in to the agents. They fitted a new ribbon cable (didn't have one in stock so simply took one out of a new one) and he was good to go almost immediately.
On a sort of related matter, when I take my SB300 out of standby the green lights seem to take quite a long time to stop flashing. They always stop in the end and the amp sounds absolutely fine, so I don't really worry about it. Not sure if it has always done this, sort of makes me wish that I hadn't started looking - it is probably normal but all this talk about the bias system induces paranoia. The amp continues to amaze me for its tonal options even when using the vintage channel, and of course for its sheer grunt and headroom:).
 
#587
Tim1 said:
Yes, the fix is simple and quick. A friend of mine last week had the power drop off on his 100T and took it in to the agents. They fitted a new ribbon cable (didn't have one in stock so simply took one out of a new one) and he was good to go almost immediately.
On a sort of related matter, when I take my SB300 out of standby the green lights seem to take quite a long time to stop flashing. They always stop in the end and the amp sounds absolutely fine, so I don't really worry about it. Not sure if it has always done this, sort of makes me wish that I hadn't started looking - it is probably normal but all this talk about the bias system induces paranoia. The amp continues to amaze me for its tonal options even when using the vintage channel, and of course for its sheer grunt and headroom:).
Click to expand...

Mine does the same thing as well. Regardless of how long I have it in standby, when I take it off, it may take 15-20 seconds before it stops blinking. it's been working perfectly fine

Played the head in band practice today, and I'm floored. everyone in the band is floored. and i now realize that I haven't even tapped this amps full potential sonically. this is going to be a wondrous relationship:hyper: first gig is tomorow
 
#594
jeffgnr90 said:
Mine does the same thing as well. Regardless of how long I have it in standby, when I take it off, it may take 15-20 seconds before it stops blinking.
Click to expand...
Same for me, 30secs max. One thing to remember is that the head needs silence (zero signal) to adjust the bias, so when you are already start playing or have some noise/hum it may take a lot longer. I leave the master vol pulled to mute until the LEDs stop flashing.
 

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