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The Hossenfeffer III Build

Envirotex and and Glaze Coat are just plain soft and don’t buff, not to mention picky about curing temp. They also brown horribly in the sun.

Smooth-on Tarbender is much harder and less finicky, BUT has kind of questionable surface adhesion—probably OK for small recessed inlays, but not great for large surfaces.
Interesting I have not found that with Envirotex Lite, but what I will say is that it's incredibly sensitive to incorrect mix ratios. I've found that mixing by weight is the only way to go - by volume was just not good enough for an even mix. :thumbsup:
 
Are you sure... starting to think you've got some sort of endorsement deal...

:roflmao:
Nope, just verrrrry happy with the results.
After a long search for a , green, non toxic finish , easy to apply, non smelly.

It's like seeing a good movie / TV show / band etc.

You enthusiasticaly share with your friends.
Right ?
 
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Nope, just verrrrry happy with the results.
After a long search for a , green, non toxic finish , easy to apply, non smelly.

It's like seeing a good movie / TV show / band etc.

You enthusiasticaly share with your friends.
Right ?
So I'm assuming that you mean when fully polymerized that it isn't toxic. Also the "green" label is attached to most 100% solids coatings. This is owed to the fact that they don't contain solvent that needs to evaporate.
 
Does the solarez resin dry hard enough to use as inlays? I used Envirotex because a lot of pedal builders use it on stompbox builds, so its supposedly super hard and abrasion resistant, but it wasnt in my case. I was very careful on the mix, but i did it by volume, not weight. Ive been wanting to try Solarez for a while now, I might give that casting resin a shot. Since its just a single material, no mixing to screw up. Hmmm.........
 
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Does the solarez resin dry hard enough to use as inlays? I used Envirotex because a lot of pedal builders use it on stompbox builds, so its supposedly super hard and abrasion resistant, but it wasnt in my case. I was very careful on the mix, but i did it by volume, not weight. Ive been wanting to try Solarez for a while now, I might give that casting resin a shot. Since its just a single material, no mixing to screw up. Hmmm.........
Atlas Labs does accelrated UV exposure testing. They actually make the accelerated aging equipment and have a contract lab. I guess Art Resin contracted them as a 3rd party for this. Atlas has an excellent reputation. While I'm not sure there's much actually data here with the spectrophotometer, there is however visual information on accelerated UV exposure. I used to send samples their way once in a while. This video has a number of brands with UV exposure testing, including Envirotext Lite. Sorry mate, it is just about the worst for yellowing. One could certainly make up a bunch of test samples and check abrasion resistance. I'd be happy to contact my old lab and see if they'd let me run a few samples. Taber Abrasion is the industry standard for abrasion resistance.

Polyester or Vinyl Ester resins don't have the same impact or abrasion resistance as a general overall class of products when compared to epoxy. I can't speak to Solarez. Polyester is considering non-yellowing when compared to Epoxies.

This video is quite illuminating, (no pun intended).
 
Dang! No Good Deed goes unpunished. Well, the bass doesn't spend much time in the sun, and I'm sure as hell not digging it out of the inlays! Live and learn. What I'm hoping to find is something that cures really hard to withstand rounds, stays clear, and can be buffed to a high shine. Tall order, I know, but somebody must make a goop that fits the bill. In the meantime, I'll do a lot of online research, and keep looking for pre-cut ovals as an alternate. I don't have any experience cutting inlays from shell blanks, particularly ellipses. The human eye spots a bad ellipse instantly. Alembic uses an interesting descending progression for the size. I thought there might be some mathematical progression to it, but I can't find one, or measure a photo accurately enough to track it, so I guess I'll approximate and eyeball what looks right.
KI36SrR.jpg
 
I don't have any experience cutting inlays from shell blanks, particularly ellipses
Yeah... so what? :meh:
You DO have experience being a meticulous Craftsman that CAN pull off difficult processes successfully. Maybe it's time to expand beyond goo based inlay.... (Tough love).;)
And... consider this... if you ARE doing goo inlay...
It's the routed POCKET that has to be a perfect ellipse.
:eyebrow::eyebrow:...right? ...And that's the fiddly bit ! :oops:
If you wobble at ALL your ellipses...will be hideous.

When cutting shell blanks... you rough cut outside a line ...then you can gently file down to the exact shape of the pattern glued on the blank... controllable....no risk. If you do mess one up.. it's a little piece of shell wasted... not your entire board.
Then, if any of your routes aren't exactly perfect... it doesn't matter that much. On ebony (or rocklite etc.) you can easily hide little discrepancies with dust & CA.
As long as the shiny ovals are perfect... and they will be.
You can do it ! Get a jewelers saw & some little files :p

Or... my preference....find a friend who owns a very expensive laser cutter. :rolleyes:
 
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Have you tried paper portraits of presidents in hues of green (mostly, varying somewhat of late?)
They can be surprisingly effective as a persuasive tool.
Coming from the POV of someone who gets parts Water Jet Cut, EDM cut and Laser Cut, Laser is by far the most cost effective. Sometimes I get just a reasonably decent sized piece cut and it costs $200. Plus with waterjet, even if you have a sacrifical board underneath the potential for lost parts is there. Trying getting waist deep in a tank of water and garnet looking for a small piece of something in a tub the size of half a swimming pool sometime. It's not fun. Ask me how I know.
 
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Hey @deff - How do you know? :cool::bag:
Lol, yup. Getting a small piece of an FTIR wavelength spectrophotometer that had been conditioned for for 180 day temp cycle for NASA like or NASA project cut. My normal guy put me with "the kid". Kept telling "the kid", you need to strap that. We can't lose the piece. welp. I sifted through Garnet for hours. You can't even use a metal detector to find anything because it was a giant lead lined metal tub. It was freezing and very unfun. Our client was very unhappy. The kid just said, woops... It's in there somewhere. I thought about how I might handle jail time for murder.