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The Mike Lull Club Part 3

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I'll take a number! Here's me playing my M4V, it turns ten years old this summer.
 
You know I am. You've gigged it :) now let's see some pictures of your lull!
No carpet shots yet, but specs are Seymour singles, Bart 3-band, 34" scale, one-piece solid ash body, maple board, 8.2 pounds. Compares to my other J "jewel" VERY favorably. NAMM acquisition... totally not at all interested in shopping this year, but picked this thing up and couldn't hand over the cash fast enough. I couldn't believe it hadn't sold already. Maybe because it was an "oddball" as a 34" scale 5, which is not his norm (but exactly what I'd order from him anyway).

My only gripes are it has a flat blade adjuster for the truss rod (which I really don't like, but can live with, if it can't be changed), and there's no passive tone control (which I'm trying to figure out).

Lull5V34_front.jpg


Lull5V34_back.jpg
 
No carpet shots yet, but specs are Seymour singles, Bart 3-band, 34" scale, one-piece solid ash body, maple board, 8.2 pounds. Compares to my other J "jewel" VERY favorably. NAMM acquisition... totally not at all interested in shopping this year, but picked this thing up and couldn't hand over the cash fast enough. I couldn't believe it hadn't sold already. Maybe because it was an "oddball" as a 34" scale 5, which is not his norm (but exactly what I'd order from him anyway).

My only gripes are it has a flat blade adjuster for the truss rod (which I really don't like, but can live with, if it can't be changed), and there's no passive tone control (which I'm trying to figure out).

Lull5V34_front.jpg


Lull5V34_back.jpg

How does the B string sound on the 34" scale? As good as Sadowsky and the like?
 
Nice one Vic. Ya, I typically don't see passive tone controls on Bart or Aguilar equipped preamps. I could probably get by on the Bart but Aguilar could benefit IMO. No worries though, mine has the nordy with ptc.
 
No carpet shots yet, but specs are Seymour singles, Bart 3-band, 34" scale, one-piece solid ash body, maple board, 8.2 pounds. Compares to my other J "jewel" VERY favorably. NAMM acquisition... totally not at all interested in shopping this year, but picked this thing up and couldn't hand over the cash fast enough. I couldn't believe it hadn't sold already. Maybe because it was an "oddball" as a 34" scale 5, which is not his norm (but exactly what I'd order from him anyway).

My only gripes are it has a flat blade adjuster for the truss rod (which I really don't like, but can live with, if it can't be changed), and there's no passive tone control (which I'm trying to figure out).

Lull5V34_front.jpg


Lull5V34_back.jpg

Very nice! Both of my Lull's are ash. You could have Mike put a mid toggle in that would make room for a Passive tone control.
 

When I look up bass in the dictionary, that's the picture I'd expect to see. Pure classic.

NAMM acquisition... totally not at all interested in shopping this year, but picked this thing up and couldn't hand over the cash fast enough.

I felt that way about my Lull. The cost vs. what I was getting, I thought it was a steal.

My only gripes are it has a flat blade adjuster for the truss rod (which I really don't like, but can live with, if it can't be changed) ...

Agreed. I wish all basses had the wheel adjuster like MusicMans and Sadowskys.
 
How does the B string sound on the 34" scale? As good as Sadowsky and the like?
Yes!

Nice one Vic. Ya, I typically don't see passive tone controls on Bart or Aguilar equipped preamps. I could probably get by on the Bart but Aguilar could benefit IMO. No worries though, mine has the nordy with ptc.
I've seen passive on both. It's really a no-brainer to do, because it's not part of the preamp at all. I think the main issue is with the three band preamp, you run out of holes pretty quick in a 3-4 hole config, and doing a vintage tone as part of a stack may require hard to find parts.
 
Very nice! Both of my Lull's are ash. You could have Mike put a mid toggle in that would make room for a Passive tone control.
The knob is already push/pull. My thing is, I rarely really need to mess with mids on a J, so I could even see literally hard-wiring it "flat" and just putting a tone control in that hole instead.

I have other ideas as well, but some might require hard to find pots, so I'm not sure if I wanna' get into that or not.
 
The knob is already push/pull. My thing is, I rarely really need to mess with mids on a J, so I could even see literally hard-wiring it "flat" and just putting a tone control in that hole instead.

I have other ideas as well, but some might require hard to find pots, so I'm not sure if I wanna' get into that or not.

Nice bass, but strange that a luthier would make a J without a passive tone control. That would be a deal killer for me.


Regarding the 'slot' neck adjustment, a heavy duty curved end screwdriver totally eliminates that issue, and if you find a heavy duty one with a very short neck shank (they have them on Amazon, and probably in most auto supply stores), it actually can work better than more 'modern' executions.
 
The knob is already push/pull. My thing is, I rarely really need to mess with mids on a J, so I could even see literally hard-wiring it "flat" and just putting a tone control in that hole instead.

I have other ideas as well, but some might require hard to find pots, so I'm not sure if I wanna' get into that or not.

I'm sure Mike would swap out electronics for you.
 
Nice bass, but strange that a luthier would make a J without a passive tone control. That would be a deal killer for me.
Well, it's a trivial matter to me to make sure it gets one someday, so all I was mainly concerned about (and impressed with) was how great of a J bass the bass itself is. So definitely not a deal killer at all for me. I never worry about minor electronic stuff... that's tinkertoys to me, and I actually enjoy messing with it a little. In the mean time, even though it doesn't do the same thing, I'm ok with cutting the treble control for now, and not using passive mode as much until I have the tone control present.

Regarding the 'slot' neck adjustment, a heavy duty curved end screwdriver totally eliminates that issue, and if you find a heavy duty one with a very short neck shank (they have them on Amazon, and probably in most auto supply stores), it actually can work better than more 'modern' executions.
I have one. Like I said, I can live with it, I just don't like it as much.

This ain't my first rodeo, of course. :)
 
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