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The Modified BEAD 4 String Bass Club

I just convert my Yamaha TRBX 504 to BEAD yesterday. Widen the nut slot and drop a fresh set of EB Cobalt flat 2816 65-130.

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But, today I tune it to C standard which I found my fretting hand prefer play on a tap higher. I also found overall tone become a bit brighter and tighter, especially the B string tone.
 
I just convert my Yamaha TRBX 504 to BEAD yesterday. Widen the nut slot and drop a fresh set of EB Cobalt flat 2816 65-130.

View attachment 4491296 View attachment 4491297


But, today I tune it to C standard which I found my fretting hand prefer play on a tap higher. I also found overall tone become a bit brighter and tighter, especially the B string tone.

How do you like the tension on these? I've been thinking of trying them, but I'm worried the un-tapered B won't fit through the slot on my bridge.
 
Count me in the club. I briefly had a five-string StingRay I picked up when Guitar Center had it on clearance, but was not a fan of the wide neck typical of five strings, so it got traded for the four-string version plus a little cash, and then was sold to help pay for an Oberheim OB-8. If I need the highest notes on the high G in a song, I probably don't need the low B, and vice versa.

The Gibson Thunderbird I also bought on clearance then served as my B standard bass, as I found the tone a bit one-dimensional for playing in E standard but perfect for lower tunings, and I had good results with Kalium .059/.079/.106/.142. Both the original Gibson bridge and the Babicz bridge I bought to upgrade it were slotted top-loaders. But I wanted to upgrade the electronics to Bartolini with coil split and active treble/bass, and refinish it in "Graphite Pearl", so it's at the luthier, and will probably return to E standard.

eBay ran a Bonus Bucks recently, and I picked up a Jackson USA Concert Bass and a Hipshot A-style Fender-style retrofit so I could fit heavier strings, and asked for the strings back. The luthier probably sent me the wrong strings back, but they were thick enough (B being at least a .130) and work for now. Actually had to loosen the truss rod a bit, there was almost no relief. The electronics were previously changed to EMG with two volumes and a passive tone, so I've ordered EMG's BTS controls and toggle switch so I get the original feel.

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How do you like the tension on these? I've been thinking of trying them, but I'm worried the un-tapered B won't fit through the slot on my bridge.

Well balance string to string tension, no floppy.
My action are 2.25mm on B, 2.0mm on E , 1.85mm on A and 1.75mm on D string.
No fret buzz .

No idea if cobalt flat 130 B suit for string through body bass.
But, I been install the 55-110 2811 on classic stingray, it work . But, the string end winding (silk wrap start area) just lay on the nut slot.
 
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I did this to a CIJ jazz bass and I'm not sure the neck likes the tension at all. used roto 66 drop zone 65-130
Did it to a CV Squier J with 125 Lo Riders. Actually had to loosen the truss rod to lose the back bow.

WhichI guess was kind of predictable when I think about how famously floppy B strings are. Spent some time worrying about extra tension before I BEADed my first bass tho.
 
Got the needle files out and widened the nut slots to handle BEAD tuning. Made quite the difference now that the strings aren't hiked up at the nut. The low C and F at the first fret are much more in tune. Can't believe I was going to take this out to get the slots widened professionally. Now replacing the nut on my Rickenbacker 360/12, that's a little more involved, and it's got other issues.
 
I've got my "Redbird" (custom shop epiphone thunderbird IV) strung BEAD presently, with DR DDTs, 45-125.
Really like the bottom end on these strings (I've since put a 50-110, +125 set on my 5-string thunderbird as well), and they stay in tune very well, as advertised :thumbsup:

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:)
Dang. I like everything about that rig. I have a couple (arguably better) rigs that I really like and there's zero chance I'd be willing to cart that monstrosity around to gigs. However, I periodically get the urge to buy a classic USA bass Peavey Rig. I like a strong round tone, and I've repeatedly been able to get a sound I like out of any of those early Peavey Mark-whatever heads and similar era cabs. Heck even the multi-instrument PA style heads sound good to me.
 
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Dang. I like everything about that rig. I have a couple (arguably better) rigs that I really like and there's zero chance I'd be willing to cart that monstrosity around to gigs. However, I periodically get the urge to buy a classic USA bass Peavey Rig. I like a strong round tone, and I've repeatedly been able to get a sound I like out of any of those early Peavey Mark-whatever heads and similar era cabs. Heck even the multi-instrument PA style heads sound good to me.


:)

It does sound great, but the only moving it does is sliding on the carpet when I rearrange my living room furniture :laugh:
 
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Back in the early 90's I started thinking about a 5 string bass,
just to get that extra low B string.

I've alway been a hold the bottom, drive with the kick type player especially playing in a 5 piece group where holding down the bottom was important.

Then I went shopping and just didn't fall in love with any 5 string at any price point. My fingers are short and the necks just felt too wide.

So, after a bit of pondering, I decided to modify my '79 USA Custom Shop Schecter PJ just enough to run the low 4 strings of a 5 string set.

A simple, easily reversible mod, plus resetting intonation.

That's the way the bass remains today.

What I liked beyond retaining the slimmer 60's neck width,
was that the change in attack angle on the relocated E & A strings gave the E & A more punch and I didn't miss the G nearly as much as I thought I might.

Since then, other players have picked up on this idea saving them the cost of a new bass, while still getting the lows they were after.

Reversing the mod is as simple as replacing the nut and setting the bass back up for traditional 4 string operation.

Just wondered how many of you have tried this.
Does anyone have pickup suggestions for p bass for BEAD? I heard that p bass pickup might not be best for B string. It seems to work well for me, but I am a little new to BEAD tuning. I currently have Dunable D-split in BEAD p bass. [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
Does anyone have pickup suggestions for p bass for BEAD? I heard that p bass pickup might not be best for B string. It seems to work well for me, but I am a little new to BEAD tuning. I currently have Dunable D-split in BEAD p bass. [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
I like the geezer EMG, he plays in C#, so B isnt that much lower. I want to try the new Dimarzio Relentless though since I believe Billy plays one his basses in BEAD.
 
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Does anyone have pickup suggestions for p bass for BEAD? I heard that p bass pickup might not be best for B string. It seems to work well for me, but I am a little new to BEAD tuning. I currently have Dunable D-split in BEAD p bass. [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
I just put a Wilde p46 in a P bass knock off with flats in BEAD. I'm seriously impressed with the clear low end and the tight attack. Outstanding sound at a very competitive price. Only downside is they're a couple of mm longer than standard. I had to file the pickguard slightly let them move freely on the mounting screws.

Search here and you will find plenty of people prepared to say they are the best P pickup replacement
available. I haven't tried enough pickups to make that claim, myself.
 
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What set of strings would be best for tuning to BEAD and Drop A on a 34" scale bass?

I say BEAD and Drop A because my bass has a HipShot drop tuner and I will go between the two semi-frequently.

Personally, I'd use DR DDTs - probably the 65 - 125 set. That's what I'm using currently for BEAD.
The 125 DDT should be able to handle the low A, but I'm sure someone will be able to give you a solid answer for that.
 
Personally, I'd use DR DDTs - probably the 65 - 125 set. That's what I'm using currently for BEAD.
The 125 DDT should be able to handle the low A, but I'm sure someone will be able to give you a solid answer for that.
I do like the spiders for bead. Sound particularly nice in my PJ with EMGs. But mostly I get lo riders 5 string sets coz they're cheaper. The difference in sound doesn't Justify the extra cost.
 
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