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The Modified BEAD 4 String Bass Club

I do like the spiders for bead. Sound particularly nice in my PJ with EMGs. But mostly I get lo riders 5 string sets coz they're cheaper. The difference in sound doesn't Justify the extra cost.

I've started using the DDTs on one of my 5-strings, so far I like them.
But I buy them as a 50-110 4-string set, and add a 125 single for the B.
I prefer that size, which is fortunate, as it's the biggest of the DR strings I've tried so far that most of my bridges will take :meh:
 
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I expect round wound strings would file so slowly you'd be constantly checking for any results at all. And easily spot when the slots were the right shape. And hence the right depth.

I rub pencil lead in the nut slots before I start "filing" with old round wound strings. I've done this to 3 of my basses and honestly it worked out well.
I have a set of mut files for a 4string bass bit not for the B string so I gave it a try. It takes a while but that's a good thing so you don't file too much at once.
 
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I have been playing with the idea on my 35" of tuning BEAD with strings:
75 - 100 - 115 - 130.
Has anyone done anything like this ? ?

Not with a 35", but it makes perfect sense being they'll have a little more tension, however I might go a little smaller with the 3 upper strings because there's noticeably more tension than a 34" scale, but you could easily go with a 135'. I like your username :)



I had a local Luthier make a new nut ($60) as I wanted to keep the original one stock just in case I wanted to go back. I did the setup on it (Ibby Premium), but to do this right - the E & B mono rail bridges need to be moved back 2-3mm (E) & 3-4mm (B), at least with the Dunlop SS Superbrights 45130T sets I've been using. Currently the E bridge is near maxed out for proper intonation, and the B is maxed out, but needs more room. I'm not sure I want to go drilling holes to move the saddles back the way the body contours so for my purposes it can be slightly off.
 
Hey, I did it! Thanks to everyone for posting their guidance. I've never found a 5-string bass I liked that had a narrow enough neck for my short fingers but a wide enough string spacing for my, uh, clumsy fingers. This seemed like a much better solution.

The bass is a Schecter Stiletto Stealth, acquired just for this purpose. The strings are Elixir Nickel Plated Steel, 65-130. Very playable, and definitely worth the experiment!

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Hey, I did it! Thanks to everyone for posting their guidance. I've never found a 5-string bass I liked that had a narrow enough neck for my short fingers but a wide enough string spacing for my, uh, clumsy fingers. This seemed like a much better solution.

The bass is a Schecter Stiletto Stealth, acquired just for this purpose. The strings are Elixir Nickel Plated Steel, 65-130. Very playable, and definitely worth the experiment!

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I thought I needed a 5 string or a 6 string, but they were too wide for me. I had always wanted a Steinberger and the previous owner happened to have it strung BEAD. I planned on changing it but after playing it, I love the additional notes it brings.
 

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How you adjusting to it?
It has been no trouble at all, so far. It's like playing a 5-string, but with the ease of fingering that I'm accustomed to on a 4-string. It has seemed very natural and intuitive. It probably helps that I've never been a heavy user of the G string. Really the only thing that forced me to pause and think was looking at my 5-string tabs; maybe I should rewrite them on a 4-line staff marked "BEAD".
 
Hi all! I'm thinking of joining the club. I've been aware of BEAD tuning since I learned that Ross Valory of Journey used it. Not my favorite player or anything, but the concept intrigued me. Anyway, I think I'm finally deciding to do it. Gonna have to decide which bass gets it. I have a Fender Precision and an Epiphone Thunderbird as candidates, and I also have to decide on strings. Gonna go with flatwounds. If I use the Fender, I can just get a low B of the current set (LB Deep Talkin' Flats) and forget about it, but if I choose the T-bird, I'd likely try a different set entirely.
 
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Does anyone have advice on dos or don'ts as far as basses to use for this? My friend had a bass with cheap pickups the sounded fine in EADG but garbage in BEAD.

Looks like people like the P-bass, or an Ibanez for it, what about active vs passive pickups? Or anything to look for in the neck or bridge?
 
Does anyone have advice on dos or don'ts as far as basses to use for this? My friend had a bass with cheap pickups the sounded fine in EADG but garbage in BEAD.

Looks like people like the P-bass, or an Ibanez for it, what about active vs passive pickups? Or anything to look for in the neck or bridge?
I've run into this. I came to the conclusion the pickups didn't have the frequency range for B.
 
I musta missed this thread, I thought I was a member but it doesn't appear I posted. :D

My Fender 5ers, P and J have wider necks that started to cause wrist pain (the others are narrower, so I'm still playing them without issue), so I restrung my old P into BEAD...

Then I found this off-brand J for a ridiculous price so I bought it and of course, BEAD.

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I decided to try BEAD tuning again. I had some still-usable DR Dragon Skin Coated SS Rounds 40-120 from my Ray5 and decided to use the 60-120 strings on my Schecter Raiden Special-4. I played it at church on Sunday and I was thrilled with the feel of the neck while still having the range down low.

I so rarely use the G on my bass, and the Schecter has a 24-fret neck that gives me all of the higher notes I could ever need. I’m very happy with this setup!
 
So... after many years of threatening to tune BEAD I bought some files, a set of NYXL 55-125s and got to work on my beloved SB-1 (which meant I *had* to commit). Rationale was thus:

1) I prefer 4 strings
2) I rarely use the G string
3) I am back on a project playing bass, and needing lower tunings (drop C)

After a bit of tweaking the setup, things have settled in to where its back to more or less it luscious playability. A few lessons learned:

1) Filing the nut is more intimidating than difficult, definitely get the feeler gauges.
2) Take your time! This is definitely not difficult, but not to be rushed.
3) 34" really is pushing the limits on the thicker gauge strings. I'm starting to look more into 35" and fanned fret instruments.
4) I should have done this sooner

All in all it feels a bit more natural to play in with this set up, and the adjustment has helped keep a rock style grip and good muting technique with most of the noodling happening on the GCF strings (low C is for chugs baby!). Pretty sure I'm going to convert one or two more in the stable... although a Spector may now be in my future...
 
A question for all you who only use B-E-A-D.

Which kind of bands do play in? What genre? Covers or original?

I have a great 5-string Sandberg California. However, I have had a lot of pain in my left hand lately so tried a 4-string a while. It made a lot of difference.
So I’ve decided to go 4-string tuned B-E-A-D.
In one of my bands which is an original band it won’t be a problem. It’s a hardrock/metal band where I mostly play really low notes and never use the G-string.
I also play in a couple of cover bands. I don’t use the G-string a lot there either and when I need to use it I could probably do it an octave lower or play the notes higher up on the D-string.

Anyway, just curious how your band situation is.
 
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