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I'll +1 the comment on pickup clarity for the low B. Try dropping to B on that string before converting and listen to the lows first. Some pickups just don't work for low Bs.
I regret converting my narrow nut J neck. The thicker gauge of my BEAD strings makes the string spacing feel even tighter up in the first few frets. P width is my preference for BEAD.
I regret converting my narrow nut J neck. The thicker gauge of my BEAD strings makes the string spacing feel even tighter up in the first few frets. P width is my preference for BEAD.
Hi Folks, I really tried to find some info on TB whether BEAD stringing a Yamaha TRBX504 will work. If my question has been asked before, I am really sorry. Just haven't been able to find it. The TRBX504 is my dream bass, I've tried it out in a store last week. But I'm truly a BEAD kind of person. So before I pull the trigger, I would like to be sure. If it can't be done, I might go for the TRBX505. Any help would be highly appreciated!
Any bass can be set up for BEAD, though it may require some modification to handle larger string scale or electronics update if they aren’t voiced how you like for the lower frequencies.
Widening the nut slots won't be a problem. It's more like not having the B string dangling around at this particular bass. So I'd hope to hear some experiences from other Yamaha owners.
The B string on my trbx605 has a nearly identical amount "dangle" as the B string on my 4 string BEADed Jazz bass, so I would expect a trbx304 or 504, which also have 34 inch necks, to also be quite similar. Mine are both very playable B strings, though not as taut as they would be on a longer neck. I hope this helps answer your question? It should handle it nicely, with a little filing and a good setup
A floppy low B is a function of the instrument scale and your chosen string. That yammy is a standard 34" scale so any string tension calculator online can help you work out how it would feel.
Many of us in this thread have 34" scale basses tuned to BEAD
However, I think your biggest concern with that model should be nut width. The specs on the Yamaha site say it's 38mm. That will feel very narrow once it's got thicker gauge strings on. I prefer a wider nut for a BEAD bass at least 41mm
I think you're making a a very useful comment. I can handle a little narrower string spacing (therefore a 4 string in BEAD over a 5 string), but it's very smart pointing that out beforehand. Thanks!
I'm happy with my 1.5" (38mm) BEAD Thunderbird.
Same with my Schecter Stiletto Studio 4
Sporting new strings. 3 strings for EAD , gauges 120 90 67 from D’addario set EXL160BT plus XLB145 non tapered) for the B.
The 145 is a bit flubby though, even at that big gauge. I’ve been trying round wounds because a flatwound over 136 is unobtanium I think.
BEAD with 67 90 120 145
B0/.145/41.50lbf
E1/.120/49.24lbf
A1/.090/51.05lbf
D2/.067/51.09lbf
TT=192.88lbf
Next stop might be trying XLB160 ( non tapered) for that little bit extra taughtness. According to the math, .160 is the more tension balanced string to go with the EAD than 145. I’d def have to make the bridge hole a bit larger (already a tight squeeze) and open the B nut slot some as well.
The things we do for love he he
The 145 is a bit flubby though, even at that big gauge. I’ve been trying round wounds because a flatwound over 136 is unobtanium I think.
BEAD with 67 90 120 145
B0/.145/41.50lbf
E1/.120/49.24lbf
A1/.090/51.05lbf
D2/.067/51.09lbf
TT=192.88lbf
Next stop might be trying XLB160 ( non tapered) for that little bit extra taughtness. According to the math, .160 is the more tension balanced string to go with the EAD than 145. I’d def have to make the bridge hole a bit larger (already a tight squeeze) and open the B nut slot some as well.
The things we do for love he he
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Anyone tried non tapered and tapered B strings, and noticed any affect on flub?
I’ve read that a tapered string might lessen it some. I could always diy taper the 145 I have on rather than spending money on buying a tapered one. See if that changes anything.
Edit
Well diy tapering is so quick I just went ahead and did it on the 145 with time to spare to edit he he. Had to raise the saddle as you’d expect. The intonation remained unchanged. And after all said and done, I can’t say I notice any change in flubby sponginess of the string.
I’ve read that a tapered string might lessen it some. I could always diy taper the 145 I have on rather than spending money on buying a tapered one. See if that changes anything.
Edit
Well diy tapering is so quick I just went ahead and did it on the 145 with time to spare to edit he he. Had to raise the saddle as you’d expect. The intonation remained unchanged. And after all said and done, I can’t say I notice any change in flubby sponginess of the string.
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Welcome a new Club number! 
#133 @beanondabass
I'll be monitoring to add more members as they post here. If I skipped anyone, please let me know. There's still a few numbers left for even more members!
And, you can always find the entire BEAD Club Membership list on the BEAD Club Wiki page.
Mister G-Dog. I have been BEAD'ing since 2018. May I join the Club?
Welcome a new Club number!
#134 @Brozzy
I'll be monitoring to add more members as they post here. If I skipped anyone, please let me know. There's still a few numbers left for even more members!
And, you can always find the entire BEAD Club Membership list on the BEAD Club Wiki page.
I bought a tapered .160 which is actually balanced with the 160BT set, unlike the 145 and I find it good. Takes a bit of getting used to the size, but it feels real natural now.
So for a bit I've been using gauges 67 90 120 160 for BEAD. That was fine. But I decided to replace the 67 and 90 with a 60 and an 80. A heavier bottom, lighter top configuration I guess. And I like this thing of the A and D strings being half the guage of the B and E strings. Because I do flipping from BEAD to BEBE for octave bluesy stuff, which BEBE makes easier and the 80 and 60 keeps the tension change a bit lower. And I don't have to mess around with setup stuff whilst temporarily in BEBE because the tension increase doesn't affect the relief much, if at all.
D'addario nickel round wounds
Gauges 60 80 120 160
B0/.160/49.00lbf
E1/.120/49.24lbf
A1/.080/40.10lbf
D2/.060/40.90lbf
TT= 179.24lbf
BEBE Tuning
Gauges 60 80 120 160
B0./160/49.00lbf
E1/.120/49.24lbf
B1/.080/50.52lbf
E2/.060/51.53lbf
TT=200.29lbf
So for a bit I've been using gauges 67 90 120 160 for BEAD. That was fine. But I decided to replace the 67 and 90 with a 60 and an 80. A heavier bottom, lighter top configuration I guess. And I like this thing of the A and D strings being half the guage of the B and E strings. Because I do flipping from BEAD to BEBE for octave bluesy stuff, which BEBE makes easier and the 80 and 60 keeps the tension change a bit lower. And I don't have to mess around with setup stuff whilst temporarily in BEBE because the tension increase doesn't affect the relief much, if at all.
D'addario nickel round wounds
Gauges 60 80 120 160
B0/.160/49.00lbf
E1/.120/49.24lbf
A1/.080/40.10lbf
D2/.060/40.90lbf
TT= 179.24lbf
BEBE Tuning
Gauges 60 80 120 160
B0./160/49.00lbf
E1/.120/49.24lbf
B1/.080/50.52lbf
E2/.060/51.53lbf
TT=200.29lbf
I’m in the process of doing this myself
Using 160 120 80 60 gauges for BEAD, or any other tuning is not common on TB as far as I can tell. The only other mention of the gauges is by HaphAsHard in post #5 ( I wonder what happened to this fellow string nerd who last posted back in July 2025) in this thread, and is for GCGCF tuning, which is a lower relative on a 5 string of the BEBE I slip into on my 4 stringer
P.S BEAD rules !!!!!
P.S BEAD rules !!!!!
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